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Old 12-08-2015, 09:44 AM   #15
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I had to take the Norcold doors off, remove the cooling unit then it went out the front door. Pretty much wrecked it to get it out. I took the folding door stop loose at the top of the door, and had to remove the awning mount by the front door, allowing the door to swing around out of the way. Haven't put the Samsung in yet (just took delivery today) but other posts indicate you can take the doors off and squeeze it in the front door as well. Measurements indicate that it is tight, but should work (fingers crossed!)
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by racer26 View Post
How did you get the units out and in the rv?
I've seen pictures from other members , showing the fridge, on it's back, on a pallet, going through the opening from a removed window.
Every install will be slightly different, depends on the space available.
Measure, measure , measure, and have good strong help available.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:21 AM   #17
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Jon, I installed a Samsung in a friends 2003 Dynasty and brought it in thru the door without problem.
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Old 12-08-2015, 10:57 AM   #18
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I had to remove the TV in the front center, passenger seat and a few other things like hand holds to get mine in through the door.
I lost the two drawers under the old refrigerator, DW isn't tall enough to reach the top shelf it was installed on a platform.

I put a piece of 3/4" plywood on the floor and drilled holes for the wheels on the Samsung to drop into. That secured the bottom. For the top, I just screwed a flat piece of wood to the top of the refrigerator. The wood catches on the cabinet so it won't fall forward.

I use a big U shaped piece of Lexan to hold the doors closed. When parked, it sits on top of the refrigerator, there's just enough space to slide it in under the gap that was left for the hinges.

There is a 6 inch area on top of the refrigerator that will eventually hold knick-knacks. We've got a couple of items in the S&B that we don't want to leave behind.

I haven't had to turn it off at night yet. The generator does run more often than it did before the refrigerator. But, the milk lasts longer, ice cream is hard and the beer is cold. I like mine.
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:31 AM   #19
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Jon, I installed a Samsung in a friends 2003 Dynasty and brought it in thru the door without problem.

Good to hear! I have heard from other early 2000's Dynasty's that they were able to do the same. I hope to tackle mine over the holidays.
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Old 12-09-2015, 08:47 AM   #20
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The quickest and easiest way is to remove one of the salon windows if they are large enough to allow the NotSoCold out and the Samsung in through the opening.

That's how mine was done and it all took less than one hour from the time they started to disassemble the window to when the window was completely reinstalled with valance shade, etc.

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Old 12-09-2015, 09:59 AM   #21
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I replaced my unit with a samsung. I removed a window on the driver side and was no problem to remove and replace through that window. Love my fridge.
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Old 12-09-2015, 11:44 AM   #22
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The quickest and easiest way is to remove one of the salon windows if they are large enough to allow the NotSoCold out and the Samsung in through the opening.

That's how mine was done and it all took less than one hour from the time they started to disassemble the window to when the window was completely reinstalled with valance shade, etc.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
Pretty much the way I did mine but didn't have to remove the window(just slide it all the way open) but did have to move the sofa and remove the day/night blinds and the valance. The refrigerator had about an inch of clearance but enough to carefully go through the window.
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Old 12-09-2015, 01:36 PM   #23
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I'm seriously tempted to replace my Norcold 1200 series with one of Samsung's home units. My questions for those of you that have already pulled the trigger are a: how do you secure the unit to the coach so it doesn't topple over on rough roads or sharp corners, and b: what do you do to keep the doors closed while traveling? Are the factory closing latches sufficient to keep them closed, or did you have to devise come device to hold them shut?
I also have questions about power consumption. I have a 50 amp generator, so power either with the generator running or on shore power is not an issue. But what about inverter draw in those parks that limit generator run times to basically daytime hours? We recently dry camped at a State park that had a 7PM to 7AM curfew for generators. Will the battery pack on your normal Class A motorhome keep up overnight?
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1. Secured in the bottom with lag screws into its foot frames. Secured at the top with wedges on opposite directions. Its literally too tall to tip out of it's position. 3 years and lots of miles with no problems.

2. Velcro around the door handles to keep it closed when moving.

3. Inverter draw is pretty low. About 1 amp at 120 volts when running. So yes to overnight if you have two batteries. REALLY yes if you have 4 batteries. When dry camping we only run our generator at meal prep times. We do have a robust solar system.
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Old 12-09-2015, 01:41 PM   #24
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My Norcold works fantastic. I love the ability to power it by either propane or electric.

There are a lot of very happy Norcold owners out there, and a few like you that apparently got bad units. There are a few bad Samsung units, too.

Good Luck!

Cheers!
Glad it is working for you. But when it quits, (and it will) you have the option of upgrading to a modern 18 cubic foot or bigger refrigerator (ours is 22) that does pretty much everything better. If you are a dry camper you should also consider adding a robust solar system as part of the install to compensate for additional power usage. 500 watts should do it. Having a residential put in or repairing the old clunker will be roughly the same cost. Nice to have choices.

Happy trails.
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Old 12-09-2015, 02:01 PM   #25
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... For the top, I just screwed a flat piece of wood to the top of the refrigerator. The wood catches on the cabinet so it won't fall forward. ...
You appear to have lucked out. I would not suggest this method for others. There are a number of posts where even the professional installers have drilled holes into the cabinet only to hit condenser coils and ruin the refer. Samsung runs some coils around the inside of the outer shell for additional heat transfer. This is very risky.
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Old 12-09-2015, 02:07 PM   #26
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You appear to have lucked out. I would not suggest this method for others. There are a number of posts where even the professional installers have drilled holes into the cabinet only to hit condenser coils and ruin the refer. Samsung runs some coils around the inside of the outer shell for additional heat transfer. This is very risky.
Yah, I have heard that too. Thats why I went with the wedges front and back. It literally can not move either direction because of the lack of space to tip forward or back. You can use the roof fridge vent to access the top of the fridge. You can also use the rear fridge vent to run a metal strap around the frame but we didn't have to do that.
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Old 12-09-2015, 02:12 PM   #27
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For all those asking how you do the conversion there are many different variations on how people managed this task. I removed the doors then slid the Norcold out of its mount. I then removed the cooling unit from the back of the box. Next I removed the passenger seat in the front of the coach and removed the front door retaining bracket to let the door open further. This made it easy for my daughter and I to slide the box out the front door. Since I was 75 at the time I just did not want to lift that much weight. If you are younger, the additional weight of the cooling unit may not be an issue for you.

I had the help of three other folks when we lifted the new Samsung unit into the coach. We took the box and made a mock-up of the refer to practice how we were going to move the unit into the RV. This practice really paid of when we lifted the actual unit into the MH.

My inspiration came from this post by nodine. I had to make modifications since my floorboard would not come out as indicated in this article. I also modified the mounting in the back to attach the frame with angle brackets. My front mount was very similar to Bob Nodine's tie-down.

I hope this helps those who are contemplating this conversion.
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Old 12-09-2015, 07:36 PM   #28
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I just had a Haier 10.1 installed to replace the Dometic 8 cu ft. Before installation, I put on Dreambaby refrigerator door latches, obtained from Walmart online. Keeps the doors closed nicely, and looks good.
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