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Old 08-22-2011, 07:35 PM   #1
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Saved a little money

Decided to paint the front upper nose myself today. Had quotes from $800 to $3300. Cost of paint, clear coat, scrubbie, $43. What do you think??? Now I have some $$$$ towards our winter trip. I believe Florida.
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:44 PM   #2
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Looks good What was your process.
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Old 08-22-2011, 07:45 PM   #3
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Ditto. Excellent. Please share how you did it. It's pretty timely for me.

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Old 08-22-2011, 07:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve N Sal
Decided to paint the front upper nose myself today. Had quotes from $800 to $3300. Cost of paint, clear coat, scrubbie, $43. What do you think??? Now I have some $$$$ towards our winter trip. I believe Florida.
Nice job. Cool deal.
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:04 PM   #5
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Process was using the green scrubbie to rough up what was already rough . Cleaned the dust off with a dry towel, then used rubbing alcohol on another towel and wiped down the whole area. Waited a bit then began spraying. I started on top first, applied about four coats then moved down to the upper front and did that from a ladder. When I went to the front I had a bit of overspray from the top but that pretty much just dusted smooth when I used a towel on it. I was a little surprised how easy it came off. Applied the same amount of coats to the upper front. I allowed about 10 minutes between coats. It was sunny, about 78 degrees, low humidity but a bit windy at times. That was the biggest culprit as this was all done outdoors. I should mention I pre-masked the upper nose with newspaper just above the running lights and masked the roof where the fiberglass met the roof membrane. I then used the clear coat in the same manner as the paint only that I really applied a I guess what they call a wet coat for the final upper front spraying. I waited about an hour
removed the masking used a little rubbing compound on the outer edges where I didn't mask then applied a coat of NuFinish with a small orbital buffer. Tomorrow I'll go on top an address that with some rubbing compound an give it coat of NuFinish as well. It's not perfect but it looks 100% better to me. If I would have had somewhere indoors to do it I believe there would have been less overspray but standing in front it's hardly noticable. For the money I saved I'm still smiling and if anything if it doesn't last I still have another full can of paint as well as some left in the first can and I can practice some more. Labor of LOVE I call these things. In all it took about 4 hours approx.
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:10 PM   #6
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Thanks Steve. How did you match the paint and how did you spray it?

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Old 08-22-2011, 08:21 PM   #7
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I took the cover off the roof for the microwave vent. Everything visible on the roof is painted the same color as the upper part of the moho. I took it to a local auto supply where they mix paint and they computer matched it. They filled two spray cans with it and gave me the can they mixed the color in with the codes on it to come up with the color. That's about it. The clear coat comes in its own spray can. I only purchased one can of that and still have some of that left as well. My wife sure had here doubts before I started, as I tend to lose patients at times but when done she went out and looked and GAVE ME a big . Mad me feel good to say the least. By the way the cans of paint are the size of a regular size Krylon spray can not the smaller size. As far as technique just sprayed lite coats just going back and forth. Maybe Chip Foose will give me a call. NOT!
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Old 08-22-2011, 08:27 PM   #8
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I am curious if you know what caused the paint damage? Our unit is one year newer, but was built in the summer of 04, and we have no paint damage like that?
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Old 08-23-2011, 07:08 AM   #9
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According to what I've read, the clear coat was not applied properly. Don't know if that's the total answer as my paint was coming off as well. Strange thing is that the front was repainted in Oct. of 06. I know it's five years but I haven't seen any motorhomes looking like that even older ones. I think if you do a search you can find articles on this problem. Actually the problem existed around the entire roof area. I can see on our coach where there is overspray on the roof membrane from the last job that was done at the factory. Mine is not the only one that did this. In talking with a few paint shops in the mfr. neighborhood they have stories of many repairs for this problem. Most definitely can't blame any cleaning stuff I use, as it's only Murphy's Oil soap which is recommended. Well that's the story, I just hope it lasts for a while. In the mean time I can now just look up at the area and smile and of course spend some of the extra cash somewhere else.
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:46 AM   #10
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Wow! That's a good job. I sure didn't think that you could get it that nice from rattle cans. I may now touch up some nicks on ours, using your methods.
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Old 08-23-2011, 11:51 AM   #11
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"rattle cans". I like that but yup that's what they were. Took some patients, something I can be short of and I do have a couple areas to address with the clear coat overspray but don't think that will be any problem. Heck if I do mess something up, still have some leftover paint.
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Old 08-23-2011, 05:45 PM   #12
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Steve n Sal,

Beautiful You did a heck of a job! Thought I'd stick my 2 cents in here though for anyone wanting to do this and maximize the longevity of the paint job. I know you only did the cap, but I felt I should share some of my experience before someone gets the idea to do their whole rig this way and expect it to last like a factory finish. I hope yours does! I am not a "professional" painter, but I have done a lot of painting on motorhomes over the years, and seen some pretty bad premature failures (not mine). I did a lot of research before I started, and learned from some very good pros. For the best longevity, I would expand your approach, by including the following:

1) Don't sand the surface until you remove all the wax. Otherwise, the wax gets ground into the fiberglass. Use a good dishwashing detergent without moisturizers (Dawn is good) to give the surface a good cleaning first. Don't use car soap! These will leave a film. Once the washing is complete, use a good wax remover (alcohol should be ok, but there are better ones available that also contain acetone for a complete clean). Here is a key point: use one rag to wipe the solvent on, then another one to wipe it off! Otherwise, you are just smearing alot of the wax around. You want to be sure to wipe it off while wet, so work in small, 2' x 2' sections at a time. Now, go ahead and sand. Once sanded, repeat the process again.

2) Use a good automotive primer. I would recommend a good 2 part epoxy. HERE I NEED TO DO A GIANT DISCLAIMER! PROFESSIONAL AUTOMOTIVE PAINTS ARE NOT LIKE YOUR TYPICAL KRYLON OR RUSTOLEUM!! PRIMERS, BASE COATS, AND CLEAR COATS CAN BE VERY TOXIC AND POTENTIALLY DEADLY!! ALL PRECAUTIONS SHOULD BE TAKEN TO AVOID ANY FUMES, OR CONTACT WITH YOUR SKIN. THEY CAN BE ABSORBED THRU THE SKIN, AND EVEN THE EYES. WEAR FULL PROTECTIVE GEAR AND USE A RESPIRATOR MASK SUITABLE FOR AUTOMOTIVE PAINT!! THE TYPE USED FOR PAINTING YOUR HOUSE, OFTEN FOUND IN BIG-BOX STORES ARE NOT THE CORRECT TYPE!! ONCE EXPOSED TO THESE PAINTS, FUTURE EXPOSURES CAN EASILY TRIGGER A FATAL ASTHMA-LIKE ATTACK, ESPECIALLY IF THE PAINTS CONTAIN ISOCYATES! ALWAYS USE FULL PROTECTION EVEN WHEN SANDING THE DRY PAINT!! DUST FROM THE DRY PAINT CAN BE EQUALLY TOXIC!!

If you need to do any repairs on the surface, prime it with the epoxy first, then do the repair, sand, degrease, then prime it again. Your primed surface should look like you want the final surface to look. Most 2-part primers have a window of time in which to use the topcoat. Be sure you follow it. The one I use requires a base to be applied within 7 days maximum.

3) Degrease again. When dry, Lightly wipe the surface with a tac rag. Buy this at the auto store, not the hardware store! Spray your basecoat. Again, I prefer a 2 or 3 part base, which uses a reducer and possibly an activator. Avoid any temptation to "lightly mist" the paint in an attempt to avoid runs or get a smooth finish. Doing so will allow the paint mist to actually start to dry before it hits the surface and will cause poor adhesion. Check the basecoat requirements for re-coat window times and clearcoat time. Most basecoats have about a 15-30 minute flash time. Do not shortcut this flash time! After the paint has flashed, you spray your next coat. Spray 3 or more coats of base to get good coverage. The base will probably look flat once dried. Most base paints require that you not sand them (especially metallics). If you have a blemish in the base, go ahead and sand it out, then apply another coat of base over it before you clearcoat.

4) For clearcoat, I prefer a 2 or 3 part urethane with good UV additives, which uses a hardener and activator. Most base coats that I have used require that the clear be applied within 24 hours of your last base coat, but not before a certain time. Timing is critical! If you apply it too soon, the solvent in the base will not have fully escaped and you will get little crater-looking spots in the clear. If you wait too long, the clear won't properly adhere to the base, and will begin to fail prematurely. Apply 2-3 coats of clear, allowing it to flash between coats as recommended by the manufacturer. Don't worry if you get a run! If you do, use wet sandpaper to remove it once dry. Tape over the run and the surrounding area with blue painter's tape. Use a sanding block with about 600 grit sandpaper. You will break thru the tape on the high spots with the sandpaper, and the surrounding areas will be protected by the tape. Keep the surface wet with a little soap (dawn) and water as you sand. Gradually work up thru the grits to about 2000 to 3000 grit. The surface where you sanded will be a little dull looking.

5) Buff out the clearcoat with a course wool pad and cutting compound. You should be able to achieve about 90% gloss with this. Next, use a softer wool pad and a polishing compound for the final finish. Do not use any type of compound that contains wax or silicone! You do not want to wax the clearcoat for at least 90 days to allow it to fully cure! Apply a good past wax after 90 days and enjoy your "new" rig!

This is quick "down and dirty" explanation of how it is done in the shop. Not all the details are here, but I thought it would be helpful for anyone so inclined to tackle such a project to be sure they knew what they were getting into. This is certainly not the approach I would take for a little sprucing up, but it is what is required for the best possible outcome.

Bob
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:53 AM   #13
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Thanks for the added info. I'll keep this for something that may be needed down the road. It's always great that someone will jump in and add some good info. I'm no painter or body man so my technique was a hit and miss method from watching some tv shows. Thanks again but I really hope I don't have to do it anytime soon. Oh yeah, I'm still looking at it and .
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Old 08-24-2011, 03:34 PM   #14
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InspectorRob, great write up on DIY paint repairs. I wish I had read it two years ago when I started doing my own Clear Coat repairs with no prior experience or knowledge.

I learned some of your points the hard way, Taping over the clear coat runs never occurred to me but will save me future wet sanding time. Thanks

For those that want a 2 part clear coat in a rattle can, I have successfully used Spray Max 2K clear on my extensive repairs. I buy it at an Automotive paint supply shop for about the same price as Amazon. USE a Respirator!!

http://www.amazon.com/USC-Spray-Gloss-Clearcoat-Aerosol/dp/B0043B7UQY

The negative to the 2 part Clear Coat is that you must use the whole can in 48 hours or throw the remainder away.

Steve, great looking job on your repair. Gives a good satisfying feeling when you are done!

Note: I guess the previous owner and I were planning ahead to repainting the clear coat. In 16 years of existence, my rig has never had wax applied. So no wax to remove.
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