Community Forums

Motang · 12-08-2019, 05:38 PM

Anyone ever replace screen only in the interior screen door? Looking for any tips.

THenne1713 · 12-08-2019, 06:43 PM

Get the roller tool, makes it much easier than screwdriver to reinstall rubber retainer; use care to prevent tearing screen. Once installed, trim excess carefully w/ sharp blade. EASY... if you mess up, start over, even 2nd new screen if needed will not break the bank :-)

OCM · 12-08-2019, 06:47 PM

I have done this before( and need to do it again....dang dog!). It's not a hard job, just aggravating. Get screen, gaskets, and tool at Home Depot/Lowes. There is about three sizes of gaskets, so take a small sample with you, Get enough screen to make mistakes. On my 2000 Ultrasport, around the internal release handle was the worst part. Using a large, straight blade screwdriver was better than the gasket tool in this location. Once you get the hang of it, it's not hard.

chris-rector · 12-08-2019, 09:36 PM

Very easy to replace screen in a door or window. Just make sure to get all the wrinkles out. One last thing they do make screen now that's even cat proof

153stars · 12-08-2019, 11:07 PM

My door had rubber gasket over screen channel. The screen rope was doubled 2 rows stacked. At the bottom I used pet screen to make sure 2yr Grandson and dog wouldn't push through.I had to use next size smaller rope. But I think it would inhibit the best view of road at the top.

Domo · 12-09-2019, 08:08 AM

I've just finished changing all our screening to "noseeum" screen (20 X 20 mesh - as opposed to standard 14 X 16).

Our screen door has an expanded metal "grate" on the inside bottom section to prevent kick-through damage so I didn't have to be concerned with having a different screen in that location.

For me (having learned to do screens 54 years ago) it was pretty straight forward. Here's my process.

1. Use the roller others have mentioned. One end has a groove in the roller head that will guide the spline.
2. Remove the door - Make sure you mark where the door mounting screws are set if the holes are slotted to allow adjustment. It will make remounting much easier. it takes pressure to force the spline back into the groove and it will be easier pushing down than leaving it mounted in the doorway.
4. Remove the existing spline and save it. As another has said, the spline channel may be cosmetically hidden under a wide rubber trim that should be removed - that trim simply pulls/pushes into a channel.
5. Remove the existing spline and save it for reuse (if you are changing to a different thickness screen, you may need an alternate spline - they come in various diameters/shapes.
6. Remove the existing screen.
7. Lay your new screening over the section of the door you are working on and cut the screen about 2" larger all the way around.
8. Using the round (not grooved) end of the spline tool, force one edge of the screening into a channel starting at the middle and applying tension to reduce an puffing/wrinkle.
9. Insert a short piece of spline midpoint and at 1/3 and 2/3 on that side - these will act a temporary anchors to keep alignment and tension while you work the opposite side - these can be removed as required throughout the process.
10. Working on the opposite side, use the round end of the tool to pre-form the screening while keeping light tension with one hand as you roll the screen into the channel. You want the screen to be in position but no killer tight as it will tighten up when you seat the spline in the channel.
11. Take your spline and find the midpoint. Set that midpoint in the center of the channel and progressively roll it into the channel with the grooved end of the spline tool working towards either end as you push the spline into the channel deeper and deeper. ALWAYS BIAS/DIRECT YOUR TOOL TOWARDS THE OUTSIDE OF THE CHANNEL TO PREVENT CHAFING/TEARING/RIPPING/CUTTING THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE SCREEN. YOU DO NOT WANT TO RIP THE SCREEN OR YOU GET TO START OVER...
12. Reposition/tension the place holders during/after performing #11.
13. Continue the process on the sides starting from the end you have already set in place. The spline could be cut, if you wish, or simply use a flat blade screwdriver to set the spline close to the corner and into the side channel.
14. Keep tension across the width of the screen with one hand by pulling the loose screen gently (you get to judge) as you set the spline on the opposite section.
15. Go up each side a few inches at a time, alternating sides to keep everything flat and tight.
16. Remove your placeholder when you wish and continue onto that side, keeping tension by pulling the excess material as you set the spline and trim the length of the spline if it has been stretched during installation.
17. Trim the screen using a sharp (read "new") razor knife. MAKE SURE YOU CANT THE BLADE SO THAT IT WON'T WALK ONTO THE INSIDE EDGE OF THE CHANNEL OR SLICE THROUGH THE SPLINE. SLOW AND EASY... YOU'RE ALMOST DONE.
18. Reinstall the cosmetic trim (if you had it).
19. Gather the waste - admire your work for 30 seconds and get help mounting the door.

See - it's easy!

Let us know how you made out!

l1v3fr33ord1 · 12-09-2019, 10:00 AM

Pat-

I re-screened our coach's door. I found I could not do it while the door was mounted. Removed and put on sawhorses, much easier.

If you go the DIY path, note that some RV screens use a smaller spline size than you find on residential doors. The spline diameter is about 0.095 inches (3/32").

I see you live in my early-adult hometown. It sure has changed in 50 years.