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Old 08-14-2011, 06:40 AM   #43
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You really need to read this thread:

Cheap Handling Fix

I made this one zero cost adjustment to my 2007 F-53 chassis and its the only 'mod' we have made to the suspension. Adjust tire pressures and have the alignment set.

We, like you were astounded how poorly the F-53 chassis handled when we got it. We are VERY happy with its road manners now and need NONE of the aftermarket sales hype and expense.

Please give it a read, look at the photos and spend 30 minutes under your coach. Then drive it again.
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Old 08-15-2011, 01:46 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
You really need to read this thread:

Cheap Handling Fix

I made this one zero cost adjustment to my 2007 F-53 chassis and its the only 'mod' we have made to the suspension. Adjust tire pressures and have the alignment set.

We, like you were astounded how poorly the F-53 chassis handled when we got it. We are VERY happy with its road manners now and need NONE of the aftermarket sales hype and expense.

Please give it a read, look at the photos and spend 30 minutes under your coach. Then drive it again.
Ya gotta luv it.... Page after page after page of testimonials to poor engineering and design. Even better, rather than confront what is bordering on criminal negligence, since steering & handling is a fundamental safety issue, people alter the chassis design and transfer the liability from the manufactuer to themselves.

WHY.... Do people compensate for a Manufactuer who has willfully chosen an inadequately sized chassis. I understand making modifications and aftermarket fixes for a 10-15yr old unit, but accepting this in a brand NEW purchase... I don't get it.

I'd get the unit weighed .....the tires inflated according to the charts and if the thing still wandered all over the road ......I'd photocopy the entire 10 pages from this post plus everthing else I could find on this coach/chassis combination and....drop it on the desk of the Dealer that sold me the unit and politely let him know that he can either "fix it", refund my money or " lawyer -up".
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:50 AM   #45
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I agree with Jack1234, sell me a new coach then run me all around trying to get to drive right! Maybe not. Good luck
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:12 PM   #46
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I don't know if I'm qualified to post as I have a DP, but I have found 90% of handling is due to driver over correction. When the coach moves one way you quickly correct the other, take a breath and slow down with the corrections, unless you are going over a cliff or into the side of a tractor let the little change settle then move the wheel the minimum it takes to correct. I taught my son to handle my rig in about 2hours going to FL on 95. Relax and things will get better. Now I will admit my rig has never ridden poorly, weighed it set the tire pressure that's all in 30k. Good luck
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Old 08-16-2011, 12:38 PM   #47
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Seeking advice on handling

We have a 2009 Pace Arrow on the GM chassis. I did not want a Ford chassis as I have heard for a few years that the Ford chasses wander more than others. Unfortunately, GM cannot supply chasses any longer. Even ours has some wandering....maybe the more I drive it, the better I get, as the other responses have said. I don't think there's anything that can be done about being passed by 18-wheelers, tho. They will suck you over toward them.
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:36 PM   #48
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The jest of the thread is that there is nothing wrong with the chassis as supplied by Ford. The adjustment provided for in the factory suspension to compensate for the MUCH higher center of gravity of the finished coach is just that, an adjustment.

You asked for help and I offered it. Now go have lunch with your lawyer and I'll go camping.

Yes it would be nice if a new gas engine coach handled perfectly the way YOU want it. Its not unsafe or undrivable the way it is and it does not cost what a Spartan or Freightliner chassis cost. I am not going to change the industry, especially now that there is no competition in the chassis market.
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Old 08-16-2011, 02:38 PM   #49
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We have a 2009 Pace Arrow on the GM chassis. I did not want a Ford chassis as I have heard for a few years that the Ford chasses wander more than others. Unfortunately, GM cannot supply chasses any longer. Even ours has some wandering....maybe the more I drive it, the better I get, as the other responses have said. I don't think there's anything that can be done about being passed by 18-wheelers, tho. They will suck you over toward them.

You do not have a GM chassis. You may have a GM engine but thats it. The rest is manufactured and supplied by others. Much by some of the same suppliers as the Ford chassis. (Dana, Bosch, Visteon).
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Old 08-16-2011, 07:08 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
The jest of the thread is that there is nothing wrong with the chassis as supplied by Ford. The adjustment provided for in the factory suspension to compensate for the MUCH higher center of gravity of the finished coach is just that, an adjustment.

You asked for help and I offered it. Now go have lunch with your lawyer and I'll go camping.

Yes it would be nice if a new gas engine coach handled perfectly the way YOU want it. Its not unsafe or undrivable the way it is and it does not cost what a Spartan or Freightliner chassis cost. I am not going to change the industry, especially now that there is no competition in the chassis market.
Mr. Thorne .... No offence to your great suggestion and thread. I am just appalled that a legitimate Motorhome manufactuer would care so little about their reputation that they would release product that needed major aftermarket adjustments or products in order to be enjoyable & safe for the buyer. A new Class A Motorhome (gas or deisel) is not pocket change .... so I think it is reasonable to expect the thing is "right" outta-the-box. As for the Dealer who takes your money and shrugs his shoulders.....shame on him & the whole Industry!

I have nothing in this fight as my Coach drives like a dream with no aftermarket gizmos, but I still think that if we as end-users keeping accepting poor engineering & design as somehow " our fault".... shame on us.
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:56 PM   #51
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Perhaps we should sit back and wait to hear from the OP regarding the results of
1. front end alignment
2 Weighing the coach, and determining and setting the correct tire pressures.

Beyond those, I'd expect a new F53 coach to drive and handle pretty well.
I'd think practice and experience for the driver would help, and perhaps a second opinion from an experienced large vehicle driver without a horse in this race might be nice if the owner was still not satisfied with the handling.
+1

1) Alignment. The Ford chassis is aligned before the MH is built on it. Most truck chassis based MH's are out of alignment when delivered. Crazy but true.

2) Tire Pressure. Get your rig weighed, consult the tire manufacturer's chart and set pressures for your weight.

3) Look where you want the MH to go. The posts about looking down the road are correct. It's an amazing thing. I first learned this taking an advanced motorcycle riding class years ago.

Only if the above steps don't work, then consider changing/adding equipment. Third party track/stabilizer bars, steering dampers, different shocks and tires, etc can help but should be added only after getting the basics right first. Don't start covering up problems, fix them first and augment the correctly adjusted stock handling with third part products to give you a "different" drive if desired.

Or get a DP Those chassis's are by nature much nicer to drive than the truck based ones. (After decades of RVing and several RV's ask me how I know that)
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:58 PM   #52
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As I said previously, I would start with making sure the tires are inflated correctly according to the sticker which is probably near or behind the driver seat.
The ONLY times that sticker beside the driver is any good is if the rig is loaded to it's maximum and balanced correctly OR you haven't bothered to weigh it at all. Otherwise you need to weigh the rig, four "corners" is best, then consult the tire manufacturers charts. Take the heaviest weight on a axle and use that pressure for all tires on that axle.
This info is in the Michelin, GoodYear and Toyo RV Tire Guides they publish.
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Old 08-17-2011, 12:21 PM   #53
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The ONLY times that sticker beside the driver is any good is if the rig is loaded to it's maximum and balanced correctly OR you haven't bothered to weigh it at all. Otherwise you need to weigh the rig, four "corners" is best, then consult the tire manufacturers charts. Take the heaviest weight on a axle and use that pressure for all tires on that axle.
This info is in the Michelin, GoodYear and Toyo RV Tire Guides they publish.
True. The door sicker pressures are only a good starting point until you can get weighed. You will have too much pressure in your tires (better than too little) with the door sticker unless you are over loaded, then that's another story.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:34 PM   #54
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You do not have a GM chassis. You may have a GM engine but thats it. The rest is manufactured and supplied by others. Much by some of the same suppliers as the Ford chassis. (Dana, Bosch, Visteon).
You are so right! I have a Workhorse which has the GM 8.1 engine and Allison transmission.
If I get concerned about the handling of ours again, I will check tire pressures and FEA first before spending any $$$ on parts!
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:14 PM   #55
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my 2 cents worth. I'm a newbie and having same problems. I bought my Winn Brave 1995 Class A 32' used and haven't gotten used to it yet--but I suspect that most of my problems (as has been said many times) are ME. I need to get used to it. First of all I suggest you not drive over 65mph. 60mph would be better. 55 or 58 til you get used to it. When I bought my first highway cycle I was hyperventillating til I got used to it. Now, it is fine.
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Old 08-18-2011, 08:12 AM   #56
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If I might add one thing that I haven't seen mentioned? When speaking with whoever is doing your alignment, specify that they check for slop in the steering gear and adjust it as necessary. I don't believe that's standard operating procedure in many places, and for the trouble a loose one can cause (constant wandering), it should be...

I ask them to sign off on the fact it's been checked on my repair order.
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