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Old 11-25-2015, 02:17 PM   #15
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Not mentioned yet is the chassis battery(ies). A weak battery, or one low on water, causes the alternator to lug down as it struggles to recharge it after you've started the engine. This stresses the belt, causing early failure. Usually you would have heard some squealing from the belt in the months previous to the belt breaking. Everytime, or just occasionally.
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbo2013 View Post
Just found the belt snapped looks burnt a bit.
The fan turns along with the idler pully, so I don't want to put a $35 belt on only to have it burn up again.
I'm guessing the A/C compressor, is it suppose to turn by hand how can I tell if it's that?
If so how hard to pull out
this is a 3126B
jimbo2013
If the compressor clutch isn't engaged or frozen the belt pulley will turn freely by hand.
If the compressor itself is bad the pully may not turn when the clutch engages which may be the cause of your burnt/snapped belt.
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:27 PM   #17
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oh it's locked up tight
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:03 PM   #18
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oh it's locked up tight
That'll make a difference ! So you will put on a new compressor. Be sure to check out the Idler bearing.
Once you change out the Compressor the system will have to be purged, vacuumed and recharged. If you don't have the vacuum pump or Freon then I would connect the fitting back on to the pump but do not connect the wire to the clutch. That way you would not accidentally run the pump while engine is operating and still keep the system relatively contaminate free..

When you get home or to a service location they can recharge your system to proper levels. Not sure about the oil. Refrigeration oil I have is in gallon containers. each system has specific quantities and a certain amount is in the pipes and hoses.

as for the alternator connections. they should be cleaned as long as you have them apart but be careful about the wire to crimp connectors. they may be corroded too, so be sure to have spare connectors available. I use battery terminal spray on my alternator terminals

Good luck. OH follow the engine mfg instructions when installing the new belt. On mine they have very specific instruction of which pulley to put on last as the belt is ribbed. It will be a tight fit and the smooth side of the belt is put on last over the tension pulley.
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Old 11-25-2015, 07:28 PM   #19
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That'll make a difference ! So you will put on a new compressor. Be sure to check out the Idler bearing.
I checked for it running true the last time I replaced the belt a few months ago, it feels solid spins free.

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Once you change out the Compressor the system will have to be purged, vacuumed and recharged. If you don't have the vacuum pump or Freon then I would connect the fitting back on to the pump but do not connect the wire to the clutch. That way you would not accidentally run the pump while engine is operating and still keep the system relatively contaminate free..
yes I follow 100%
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:23 AM   #20
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Talking

Finally got around to installing the new compressor it goes in real easy with new bolts & nuts (3)

I bought it new from PartDeal.com for $162, free shipping

I thought that was great price.

It was also pre-filled with oil.

I need to pickup the alternator from the shop that's bench testing it

he said it would be a good idea just to take it apart quick and check the brushes, clean it up etc.
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Old 12-06-2015, 12:27 PM   #21
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Great. Keep us posted.
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:04 PM   #22
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Finally got around to installing the new compressor it goes in real easy with new bolts & nuts (3)

I bought it new from PartDeal.com for $162, free shipping

I thought that was great price.

It was also pre-filled with oil.

I need to pickup the alternator from the shop that's bench testing it

he said it would be a good idea just to take it apart quick and check the brushes, clean it up etc.
That's great. When you say compressor you did mean the AC compressor?? What equipment do you have to recharge the AC system?
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:27 PM   #23
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That's great. When you say compressor you did mean the AC compressor??
Yes AC

I'm going to have a shop do a flush and charge etc.

I figure I saved enough pulling the old one myself.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:00 PM   #24
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I just did the same. My mechanic has all the equipment. I'm just the mechanics helper. Flushed the system, replaced the dryer and expansion valve. Vacuumed for 30 min, Found a leak on the sensor. Replaced an O-ring. Found a blown fuse for the AC clutch, probably when it siezed. All good now. Mine took 4+5 oz compressor oil. 4 for the compressor, +5 for the system.
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Old 12-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #25
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Must be fun to flush the two long hoses from the engine to the front??

How do they flush the lines without contaminating the new compressor?
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:40 AM   #26
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Must be fun to flush the two long hoses from the engine to the front??

How do they flush the lines without contaminating the new compressor?
It was 45 years ago that I took my course in air conditioning and a lot has changed since then, mostly do the EPA, but the principles are still the same.

There are several methods to flush the lines, condenser, evaporator none of which will use the new compressor. Often this is not even required to flush, if there was not a catastrophic compressor failure, which is why I suggested earlier to protect the system by connecting the components but not run the pump so as to not contaminate the system.

The tech should be able to tell if the system was contaminated, if a burn out by smell, or by chemical annalists IE acid testing. In any case there are several types of flushes used to blow the lines. Condensers are more difficult to blow and sometime are easier to replace along with the drier, muffler and accumulators. Some shops use 141 to hand blow the system other may use a recirculating pump and filter.

In all cases, the cleaners my affect o rings and hoses. DYI can use a few solvent chemicals themselves to hand flush components. In all cases the system must be vacuumed down and tested for leaks. I used to run my vacuum for several hours but back then we didn't have the quality pumps. The vacuum removes all the air in the system along with any moisture. Actually any moisture boils out and the vapor is extracted.

The proper oil and quantity along with a good charge of refrigerant will give you an output temperature of about 48 -52 degrees.

Keep Kool !!
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Old 12-07-2015, 07:41 AM   #27
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Must be fun to flush the two long hoses from the engine to the front??

How do they flush the lines without contaminating the new compressor?
Take the lines loose on both ends and blow the cleaner through them until they are clean. Then blow the lines out until they are dry.
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Old 12-09-2015, 12:33 PM   #28
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Thumbs up

Picked up alternator today, replaced a bearing, new terminal posts and a few other R&R then bench tested all good now. only $80 to rebuild test etc

Installed charging nice, infact never saw the dash volt meter reading that good

The compressor is spinning nice (uncharged)

So new compressor $160, alt $80 belt $35



Shot test run 2 miles all fine, I'm going to take a 20 mile test run in few days before heading from Fl to NY
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