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Old 11-14-2015, 01:10 PM   #1
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Angry Serpentine belt burnt up

Just found the belt snapped looks burnt a bit.

The fan turns along with the idler pully, so I don't want to put a $35 belt on only to have it burn up again.

I'm guessing the A/C compressor, is it suppose to turn by hand how can I tell if it's that?

If so how hard to pull out



this is a 3126B
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:30 PM   #2
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Prime culprits are probably Idler Pulley & A/C compressor.

Idler pulley should turn freely, with the Belt off

A/C-turn on ignition switch-do not start-turn on A/C (so you hear the click of the A/C compressor) try to hand turn the compressor-should turn-

Then: Spin the Alternator-it has a bearing too Then do the Power Steering Pump & the Water Pump If you have an Old-Timer- spin the Smog pump too

Anything that smokes a belt...should show up
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Old 11-14-2015, 01:51 PM   #3
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We had similar problem. Airconditioner clutch seized up causing serpentine belt to fail.
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Old 11-14-2015, 02:22 PM   #4
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Deny, I'll try it tomorrow

thanks
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Old 11-14-2015, 02:39 PM   #5
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PS: The A/C pulley should turn freely with the A/C off, as well-it is another Idler Pulley when the A/C is off.
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Old 11-14-2015, 02:52 PM   #6
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Replace both the idler and the tensioner pullies when you put on the new belt.
If you do the work yourself your costs is well under $100.00.
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Old 11-14-2015, 02:55 PM   #7
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Replace both the idler and the tensioner pullies when you put on the new belt.
The cost is under $100.00 if you do it yourself.
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Old 11-14-2015, 03:41 PM   #8
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I think with 42,000 miles they should be ok.
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Old 11-14-2015, 06:22 PM   #9
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Mine was the A/C compressor. Seized and burned through the belt but also junk in the freon. New compressor, new dryer, new belt, purge the A/C system and back on the road. Around $500 and back on the road.
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Old 11-15-2015, 06:25 AM   #10
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Question

If it is the the compressor (more than likely) and I replace it with a new one can ac compressor be installed without purging/charging the system?

I was thinking to leave the hoses off and not plug in the electrical on it.
I assume that it will just free wheel so I can put the belt on and drive it.

Later on bring it to a shop to have them purge etc.


I can't see how if not engaged it would damage the new compressor.

Found this one

$220
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:04 AM   #11
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Replacing the compressor but not completing the purge/recharge shouldn't be a problem. Mine went out in Barstow, CA in March. After a week, the local shop got a correct compressor but wrong dryer. Rather than wait there, we continued on our way and finally had a dryer/purge/freon in WI in June. Working fine now.
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Old 11-15-2015, 07:07 AM   #12
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I thought so thanks for confirming, I also did a search and found same.

Did you put oil in the compressor anyway before mounting it?

Leave hoses on/off?
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Old 11-15-2015, 09:33 AM   #13
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42000 miles but 15 years old. Replace the idler and tensioner while your dirty anyway. Check the water pump grease fitting, most 330's have one.

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Old 11-25-2015, 01:50 PM   #14
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Wow this is one PIA to get to, I see two bolts on the bottom going thru ear type flanges.

the other on the top is under the alternator, I removed all the wires (and labeled them) got to the top bolt and levered the alternator to one side a bit to get the bottom alt bolt, sprayed with PC blaster will wait a bit to try that one.

I can now feel the one bolt on the top of the compressor, with the Alt out of the way it should be easy to get to.

In reality it's not a terrible DIY'er, but then again it's not done yet

Interesting all the elec connections on the alternator are rusted or corroded a bit. They will all get an R&R before it goes back.

Do you think since the alt will be out I should get it bench tested, it was charging before even with the bad connections.


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