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Old 02-20-2015, 05:18 PM   #43
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Did not have the coach weighed when empty, but don't have any thing that is really heavy ( kitchen aid mixer or sewing machine).

It seems to me that it is the way the coach was built: on the right is the full wall slide, the microwave, stove, washer and dryer, DEF tank, and an additional outdoor fridge/freezer. Hard to overcome all of that with the limited storage on the left side. All I can think to do is move as much heavy stuff as possible to the right side of the basement storage.


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if you look on the wall . the yellow tag will have veh.weight on 00/00/000


or say


carrying capasity

that's the weight before you put anything in...

sometings not right with your post or your weight ...

if the left rear is light so should the left front....

I had a coach that was as yours is,,,, Fleetwood lemon lawed it and gave me a new one.... if the weight are right that you have a bent chassis and out of square box welded on... they are very hard to drive like this .. I think I'm on my 46th motorhome and bought 30 something from mikethompsons RV... any none believer can call and check it out...

the bent one was from the Fleetwood dealer in acton ca...don't know if they are still there or not
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:01 PM   #44
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nobody else is seeing this???
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Old 02-21-2015, 09:48 AM   #45
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again, i'm puzzled ...no matter how try with a model if I put extreme pressure on the right rear.... the left front becomes lighter.... the only way to increase the preasue to the left front is to bend the model...(twist)


so for me ... I would have it re weighed.... I weigh my own and see whats what...
Did you calculate the air-ride suspension into your model? It's going to attempt to maintain a level condition regardless of corner weights.
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:28 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by donnariley53 View Post
Did not have the coach weighed when empty, but don't have any thing that is really heavy ( kitchen aid mixer or sewing machine).

It seems to me that it is the way the coach was built: on the right is the full wall slide, the microwave, stove, washer and dryer, DEF tank, and an additional outdoor fridge/freezer. Hard to overcome all of that with the limited storage on the left side. All I can think to do is move as much heavy stuff as possible to the right side of the basement storage.


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I'm just kibbutzing without having a good knowledge base, so...

Where are the Fuel, Water, and Holding tanks? Down the CL, or on the left?

For you experts, do chassis manufacturers equalize weight, only to have box makers create those off-sets?

FWIW, our 37' coach was weighed while we were on the road (1/4 water, nothing in holding, Full Fuel) and it came in at 9500F and 15000Rear) All tanks Full would have added around 1500 pounds.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:20 AM   #47
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I'm just kibbutzing without having a good knowledge base, so...

Where are the Fuel, Water, and Holding tanks? Down the CL, or on the left?

For you experts, do chassis manufacturers equalize weight, only to have box makers create those off-sets?

FWIW, our 37' coach was weighed while we were on the road (1/4 water, nothing in holding, Full Fuel) and it came in at 9500F and 15000Rear) All tanks Full would have added around 1500 pounds.
We KNOW the water tank is on the right, fuel in the center, and THINK the holding tanks are on the left.
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:52 PM   #48
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Setting Tire Pressure - where to weigh my rig in Orlando

Josam Frame and Alignment did our 4 corner weigh in. 8849 Exchange Drive, Orlando, FL 32809
(407) 438-7020
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Old 02-22-2015, 07:57 PM   #49
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Lets throw a monkey wrench in this. At what ambient temperature do we set our base pressure? There is a several pound difference between pressure at 40 and 70 degree ambient.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:04 PM   #50
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Ooooh, do you really want to go there?
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:08 PM   #51
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Lets throw a monkey wrench in this. At what ambient temperature do we set our base pressure? There is a several pound difference between pressure at 40 and 70 degree ambient.
You stated one of the problems using load/inflation charts. Inflate to that minimum at 70*F, then drive to where it's 40*F and your tires are now underinflated-and overloaded. Perhaps that is just one of the reasons the RMA says to never run less air pressure than the tire placard in the RV.
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Old 02-22-2015, 08:11 PM   #52
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You stated one of the problems using load/inflation charts. Inflate to that minimum at 70*F, then drive to where it's 40*F and your tires are now underinflated-and overloaded.
They will be under inflated once they cool down.

Course once you drive them again they will re-inflate.
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Old 02-22-2015, 09:11 PM   #53
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Course once you drive them again they will re-inflate.
I really think you have not grasped the concept of setting tire CIP aims and then driving off for the day.

All tires will heat up and increase in psi when you start driving on them regardless of what the starting psi is. However if they are under-inflated at the CIP then they will remain under-inflated even after they have been driven. In fact they will heat up quicker because they are under-inflated and will eventually degrade the interior of the tire.

As I has stated previously, a tire that is under-inflated by 20-25% is considered a flat tire by the NHSTA.

The CIP is what's important NOT the HOT Inflation pressure. All tire and wheels have a maximum inflation pressure BUT it is the CIP not the HOT inflation pressure.

I would suggest you read up on maintaining tires especially how to prevent UNDER INFLATED tires.

There has been some excellent information posted on this thread with references to read.

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Old 02-22-2015, 09:15 PM   #54
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See what I meant? Book learning, charts, data as opposed to practical knowledge. Happens all the time. Thanks for the important lesson.

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Old 02-23-2015, 05:03 PM   #55
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Here is an answer from Michelin, looks like we need to adjust tire pressure to what ambient temperature we are diving in as moving to the colder temperature in the mountains.




That is a great question. I would set the air at the cold recommended psi in the morning when it's cooler as a precaution. If the tire gains a few pounds of pressure as temperatures increase during the day that is no big deal.

If you put the recommended cold pressure, lets say 90 when the ambient temperature is a it's highest during the day, your tires would actually be underinflated when the temperature drops, probably around 82-85. If you very rarely drive when it's cold outside or if it's only for short periods of time that's fine, no need to stress about the fluctuations, but if you regularly do, that could be dangerous.

So if you have to set the air a 4pm when it's around 70 outside and you know you're going to be driving all night with temperatures around 40, set the air around 98 to compensate for the anticipated drop in pressure.

When in doubt always better to have a tire a little overinflated than underinflated.

We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing Michelin.
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Old 02-23-2015, 07:15 PM   #56
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the weights are wrong so it doesn't matter
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