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Old 04-15-2013, 10:06 PM   #29
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It's a sad day in Bed Rock when shops just jump around without really diagnosing the problem. I don't know of any front end part that can't be tested for its effectiveness.
1. Tie-rods and ball joints can easily be checked in about 10 minutes. I guarantee that.
2. Wheel bearings: Remove, examine,re-pack, replace and correctly adjust.
3. With tire mounted place a dial indicator on the ground and put the indicator on the outside edge of rim. Spin tire and check for run-out.
4. While spinning check tire for concentricity by observing tire as it spins. Has anybody moved the tires from front to back to see if the problem is different???? That will surely tell you if it is a rim issue. If the problem is the same then you can rule out tires and rims unless a spindle is bent.
5. Somebody already mentioned a "road force" balance machine. Hunter makes them. Most good tire shops will have them. It places a spinning drum against the tire and places a force against it just like it was on the road. The tire could be weak in some areas and it will balance correctly but still flex as it hits the weak spot.
6. Any spinning thing on any vehicle can be diagnosed for it's condition. Your problem is you have not found a shop that can do those tests to correctly diagnose the problem.
7. Bad alignment will usually cause worn tires (Camber or out of toe alignment.) Caster alignment will not cause worn tires but it will cause hard steering or wandering. I can't think of a single alignment that would cause a vibration. I'm not an alignment expert but a vibration tells me a spinning imbalance and misalignment does not cause that.
The absolute worst thing you can do is have a guy tell you he thinks is this or that and have you spend good $$$ and then find out that's not it. If they suggest or suspect something then they should be able to test it to see if it's good or bad.
Google "Road Force balancing in your area. Those are not cheap machines and any shop who has one is probably going to know more than those that don't. Check with a good technician in your area to see if he /she can recommend a suspension guy.
Best of luck. This may not help but you need to steer in the right direction to solve this problem.

TeJay
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:13 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayoupar3 View Post

I put a set of tires on (6 new tires) and it really shook bad. Tire shop rotated tires front to back and rebalanced, still vibrated at 60 mph.
Tire shop a month later put two more new tires on front. Still vibrated, he told me to ride on them a while,it didn't get any better. Tire shop told me I needed to buy the Michelin RV tire. He replaced the tires with them , six more new ones and $1500. More dollars. Still vibrated at about 55mph to about 70. Took it to truck shop few months later, changed Pittman arm and new shocks put on, still vibrated . Then most recently had in shop in Hammond, Big Wheel truck repair. They checked driveshaft and rebalance all tires, no help


How many miles on the coach? Did you have this problem prior to First tires replacement?
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:09 AM   #31
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31,000 miles on it now, last April when I bought I ,it had 28,000. I did not notice it when I drive the first time. I don't know why ,maybe i got it up to 70mph quick. I just didnt notice. When I picked it up after purchase I drove it to tire shop for new tires. One rear tire was flat. I bought it from berryland campers.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:23 AM   #32
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31,000 miles on it now, last April when I bought I ,it had 28,000. I did not notice it when I drive the first time. I don't know why ,maybe i got it up to 70mph quick. I just didnt notice. When I picked it up after purchase I drove it to tire shop for new tires. One rear tire was flat. I bought it from berryland campers.
It sounds like the problem you have was there when you purchase the coach,you didn't notice it because you we're excited with the new purchase.

I had a 2003 fleetwood bounder on a w22 workhorse chassis . I also had problems with vibrations,though not as much as you describe.The problem with this chassis is that it's a soft chassis,what I mean by that is that it uses lots of rubber bushings and soft leaf springs to give a good ridding chassis,the problem it's prone to vibrations and poor handling.it has no stabilizer bars,only torsion bars.
Another possibility for your problem could be with your brake rotors being warped. Workhorse had a brake caliper recall,which involves replacing the break calipers for a sticking condition.Have you had this done? In some cases the brake rotor had to be replaced because of overheating.
At this point I would disregard the TIRES as the problem.You either have a bent rim or bent brake rotors.A Good shop can resolve this in a short time. Another prone area is the center bearing on the drive shaft.
When the vibration problems are resolved and you want this coach to handle good all the time have Davis True Track Bars installed frt and back,you can't believe the day &nite different it makes.
One more tip.If you have the owners manual make a photo copy of the page that describes How to tighten the wheels & the torque of the lug nuts ,and take it to the shop.
York number one priority is to find a shop.
Good luck. And keep us up to date.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:48 AM   #33
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I got a front end shake after the DW told the RV shop to rotate the tars from front to rear. It took three trips to Les Swab to get it tolerable. The first trip the kid put a huge amount of weights on the tires and it didnt fix anything and he told me the wheel was bent. I ordered a new one from LS and came in to get it put on.

The NEW kid went about his business and came out to the front lounge where I was enjoying the endless news and tire mags with day old news papers. He told him he had dismounted the tar and found out they ordered a 19.5 instead of 22.5. I told him [moderator edit] He put the tire back on the bad wheel rebalanced and came up with like 12 ounces less weights.

Took the rig up to WA 3 and most of the shake rock and roll was gone. .

I now only get a little shake on certain highways. I also plan on putting new tars on this year so its not a biggie, for the moment. At the very least, the new kid was honest with me.

I have read pro rotate and anti rotate articles. Unsure which is the best advice I never let the DW talk to the service guys without my presence any more.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #34
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I had a similar problem when I took delivery of my then new '07 Journey. Make a long story short, the 2 front tires were out of round. Found the problem when I took it to a local shop who spin balances on the coach. You could see the tires 'warbling' back and forth.

Had them replaced and solved the problem.

I understand you have gone thru several sets of tires trying to resolve your problem. Just sharing for the group.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:06 PM   #35
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I have found the problem with the shaking. It is the hanger bearings on the drive shaft. I had them changed today at wingfoot truck center in gulfport ms.
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:54 PM   #36
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Thank you for the update.
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Old 11-16-2013, 05:08 AM   #37
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Glad you finally got the problem solved. Like I said in post # 29, absolutely any part on a vehicle can be diagnosed for proper operation. I don't know if the last shop actually checked the center support drive shaft bearing or just changed it because it had not been done but I know that they can be checked for wear.

Your vibration was related to rotation speed. What rotates when driving? Tires, rims, rotors, drums, & drive shaft. Other items rotate (transmission parts, engine stuff, & differential. These items are unlikely to have a vibration problem that is difficult to find. The first list can be easily checked. Drums can loose a welded on weight used for balance. Rotors are usually drilled out to balance so very unlikely they would all of a sudden go out of balance. Sometime they placed weights inside the vented area of the rotors. You had several sets of tires so that eliminated tires. Rims should have been checked for run-out.

I realize that hind-sight is always 20-20 but you can see how a common sense, step by step approach to diagnosis can and does work. Many times I've jumped to conclusions and lost sight of the approach as well so I constantly remind myself how it should be done.

If our medical establishment operated in the same manner as some mechanics by R&R-ing parts until we get it fixed we'd be in worse shape than we already are in this country. Getting a second opinion is true in both fields. Also finding a good RV doctor is a must as well.

Good discussion here on these threads.

TeJay
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Old 11-16-2013, 10:41 PM   #38
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I recently got new tires on my 42 foot class A. I had 2 year old Goodyears that I had moved from the steer axle to the tag axle. Put on new Michelin tires and got a side to side shimmy between 58-63 mph. The tire shop then remounted and rebalanced....no change. They then put on Bridgestone tires to see if it was the tires. Same problem. I had the chassis examined at Country Coach and everything checked out fine. Tire dealer claims it cannot be the tires, but nothing else has changed. Anyone have any idea what could be happening. The original Goodyear tires did not have this shimmy.
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:10 AM   #39
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It's 6-AM here and we are up getting ready to go to Church so I don't have a lot of time.

That's an interesting turn of events. I will give this some thought but for now.

As you stated nothing else changed so why the shimmy now??? It's important to make sure what has and has not changed during all of these tire swaps. Maybe the first set of tires was some how masking the problem. Were the rims moved around as these tires were being taken on and off?? If that did happen then checking for tire /rim movement would be in order. Placing a dial indicator or pointer of any sorts on the concrete next to a slightly raised tire and rim then slowly rotating them will point our rim and tire side to side or up and down movement or run-out. That would be worth a look.

Does the shimmy feel like it's coming from the front or rear??? Drive the MH slowly through a parking lot and watch all tires from in front and behind side etc. and see if you notice and weird movement of tires or rims. The pointer idea would probably show any tire or rim issues as well but maybe the weight on the tires as you move through a parking lot might show something as well.

Try moving those steer tires that were moved to the rear back up to the steer axles and see if the shimmy goes away would be something else to try.

If those first tires were moved to the rear that means that the rims were moved and maybe the tires were rotated so the rotation has also been switched and those tires are now rotating the opposite of what they were before. I've had issues with doing that before with tire noise.

These are just some ideas for now. I'm sure some others will weight in on this.

TeJay
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:39 AM   #40
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Yes indeed a strange order of events. The two previous shops, one locally here in Hammond (Big Wheel) and the other (G M Varnado) in Baton Rouge supposedly checked the driveshaft. I was waiting to get it into another shop in Baton Rouge when I decided to visual the underneath side myself, I pushed up on the driveshaft and there was slack in both the hanger bearings. I ordered them from Precision in Birmingham.
Looking on the internet I found info about wingfoot truck centers that some do different services and talking with them, they said if it had a shake, it was mechanical and they would find it . They changed the hanger bearings and that fixed the vibration.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:01 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmcfaror
I recently got new tires on my 42 foot class A. I had 2 year old Goodyears that I had moved from the steer axle to the tag axle. Put on new Michelin tires and got a side to side shimmy between 58-63 mph. The tire shop then remounted and rebalanced....no change. They then put on Bridgestone tires to see if it was the tires. Same problem. I had the chassis examined at Country Coach and everything checked out fine. Tire dealer claims it cannot be the tires, but nothing else has changed. Anyone have any idea what could be happening. The original Goodyear tires did not have this shimmy.
Hi bmcfaror, with a side to side shimmy I would check the runout of both the tread and sidewall of each front tire. To do this, safely jack the front end up and using a stationary object ( I use a Phillips screwdriver on a old fashioned milk crate) slowly spin the tire and see if the distance between your pointer and tread changes. Do the same thing on the sidewall and you can do the same measurement of the wheel lip where the tire beads to the wheel. It is possible that you could have a bent wheel or improperly installed and not centered tire. After mounting, how did they balance the wheel and tire combination? Could be the shop has a bad balancer.

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Old 11-19-2013, 10:35 AM   #42
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I presume you also mean the problem goes away above 70? Sounds to me like a harmonic resonance if you can drive through the problem zone. Had this problem on an old truck I had and went nuts trying to find problem with wheel balance, front end components, and alignment. Finally found that the carrier bearing for the two piece driveshaft was bad.
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