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Old 10-16-2014, 09:57 PM   #29
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Since you will need HD jack stands for safety, you might want to consider this: Carry 2 HD jack stands that have at least 20% more capacity than needed to support the rear of your MH.

Example:

I have a pair of 6 ton (12,000 Lb.) stands that will support 24,000 Lbs. That's 20% greater than the maximum capacity of my rear axle/tire rating of 20,000 lb.

I also carry 10 Pcs of 2X12 lumber to help shim under the leveling jacks on uneven surfaces/sites. When I service the rig, I put the shim blocks under a pair of leveling jacks when they are fully retracted, and then extend them. Gets the wheels on either axle well off the ground. I then slide the stands in place.

No need for a bottle jack, good support with both the levelers and stands, and no need to squeeze under a tight fit with the bottle jack.


Always remember that when you raise the rear of a DP, there is no parking brake on the front. The rig is free to roll off of any supports, so 4 decent chocks on the front tires are a must.
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:17 AM   #30
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OK...I have changed my opinion based on some of the replies...

Since I am anal, and hate to take any vehicle in for repairs because the mechanics are usually in a rush, I am purchasing a 3/4" drive socket set and breaker bar.
I have the HD jack stands and the 20 ton jack. I don't plan on changing a tire while on the road (don't have a spare anyway), but when it comes time to check the brakes, I would prefer to do that myself.

Next time I have the coach at home, I will check a few of the lug nuts to see what it takes to loosen them, and I will get the appropriate extension pipe or Torque Multiplier.
I have always felt that buying tools for the job is a wash compared to taking it to the shop...and then the next time you are money ahead.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:19 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by dpinvidic View Post
OK...I have changed my opinion based on some of the replies...

Since I am anal, and hate to take any vehicle in for repairs because the mechanics are usually in a rush, I am purchasing a 3/4" drive socket set and breaker bar.
I have the HD jack stands and the 20 ton jack. I don't plan on changing a tire while on the road (don't have a spare anyway), but when it comes time to check the brakes, I would prefer to do that myself.

Next time I have the coach at home, I will check a few of the lug nuts to see what it takes to loosen them, and I will get the appropriate extension pipe or Torque Multiplier.
I have always felt that buying tools for the job is a wash compared to taking it to the shop...and then the next time you are money ahead.

Thanks,
Dan
Just be advised that you might have a problem removing the lugs the first time, especially if they were put on with a 1" air drive gun used by many truck tire dealers. I had rubber valve stems replaced by brass on my first Class A, and the tire guy subscribed to the "cant be too tight" school. I had to take it back there to have them take them off. I torqued them to 450 ft-lb and never had another problem removing them. From then on, I never let someone work on the rig unless I'm watching, even if it's from the doorway.
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:19 PM   #32
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Pigman,

One day you may want to consider replacing those studs.
If they were over torqued bad enough, they might break off later if stressed hard.
DTW
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Old 10-18-2014, 11:37 PM   #33
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If you plan on buying jack stands be sure to read the capacity correctly. I looked at some at Harbor Freight and found that the rating was per PAIR, not per each! So their 6,000# stands would hole 6,000#'s and not 12,000# like you would think.

Oh yes, our HWH jacks are rated at 12,000#'s EACH and we have four and the rig weighs just over 32,000#'s.
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Old 10-19-2014, 07:33 AM   #34
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I carry this bottle jack

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Old 10-19-2014, 11:08 AM   #35
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If your coach has leveling jacks than jack stands are not necessary.
support the weight of the coach with the leveling jacks and use the bottle jack just to lift the axle . You are only lifting the the axle enough to take a wheel off anyway, so the chance of getting hurt is pretty much nil.

Most bottle jacks will have grooves in the saddle to keep them from slipping when weight is applied
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:13 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Sthwindrider View Post
If your coach has leveling jacks than jack stands are not necessary.
support the weight of the coach with the leveling jacks and use the bottle jack just to lift the axle . You are only lifting the the axle enough to take a wheel off anyway, so the chance of getting hurt is pretty much nil.

Most bottle jacks will have grooves in the saddle to keep them from slipping when weight is applied
Good tip.

Dan
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Old 10-19-2014, 11:39 AM   #37
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I carry this bottle jack




Now that's funny. 👍
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Old 10-19-2014, 12:51 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
If you plan on buying jack stands be sure to read the capacity correctly. I looked at some at Harbor Freight and found that the rating was per PAIR, not per each! So their 6,000# stands would hole 6,000#'s and not 12,000# like you would think.

Oh yes, our HWH jacks are rated at 12,000#'s EACH and we have four and the rig weighs just over 32,000#'s.
WOW.hen I read this post I thought " he must be wrong, how can they put a 12 to sticker on a jackstand and it only supports 6 tons".

But I found that you are spot on. The manual does have a "*", and the note says 12tons evenly distributed between the pair".

That should be against the law.....
Thanks for pointing that out.

Dan
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Old 10-19-2014, 03:03 PM   #39
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Pigman,

One day you may want to consider replacing those studs.
If they were over torqued bad enough, they might break off later if stressed hard.
DTW
Yeah, a good idea but I traded it in later 2007 and later found it had been wholesaled, so long gone. While I had it the lugs came on and off without problem, so I don't think there was any catastrophic damage done to them.
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