Community Forums

Pa Uon · 05-24-2014, 10:39 AM

We just replaced our Norcold with a Samsung 197 residential fridge. Love it ! I read the manual and it said nothing about venting. Can I close of the roof top vent and insulate the exterior access panel? It seems it would get plenty of air, keep the coach better insulated, and keep exterior sound out better if I do. Suggestions? I have a 2007 40ft Phaeton.

akeyzoo · 05-24-2014, 10:49 AM

Many folks, like me, seal off the roof top vent from the inside. Not worth the effort of removing the waterproof features outside. Also, folks will use a good tape, like gorilla duct tape, to seal off the vents on the outside louvres.

Yes, keep your coach more airtight.

Chris

Cypressloser · 05-24-2014, 10:55 AM

I agree with Chris, but make sure you use Dicor on the roof if you decide to remove the roof vent and not Silicone or the like.

Gary RVRoamer · 05-24-2014, 12:26 PM

A residential fridge isn't designed for outside venting - most of them draw air underneath and let it flow up the back or sides and out over the top again (inside). If you leave the back open, you have a path from inside the coach to the exterior for cold (or hot) winds, blowing water and critters of all sorts. I supposed you could screen it somehow for the critters, but what about the air?

The RV fridge was sealed at the back and only the cooling unit vented.I haven't looked at the back of an RF197, but there may be no fins, or no practical way to seal off the interior from underneath. Some residential fridges even exchange heat through the side skin rather than exposed coils.

Coma · 05-25-2014, 06:34 AM

The new MH's come with a panel that has no vents. It's just an access panel. I am not able to find this "no vent" panel. I'd like to replace mine that has the vent taped over from the inside.

flynnwalter · 05-26-2014, 11:19 AM

Pa Uon
Am not sure about sealing either the wall 'hatch' or roof vent. As far as I know, few critters ever came in while the Norcold was there--yes, a screen is a good idea. And I don't believe some air (we don't go where its cold and live in Fla.) venting will hurt anything--in fact I suspect it might be a good thing--we learned long ago to leave a roof vent open most of the time. But will follow this thread for valid reason(s) to seal up. I
Frank W. 09 Cayman
Lake City, Florida

sirpurrcival · 05-26-2014, 01:19 PM

I think I would be inclined to leave the existing vent hardware on the outside and block off the pipe with some good insulation to keep the air flow from coming into the coach

mel s · 05-26-2014, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by akeyzoo

Many folks, like me, seal off the roof top vent from the inside. Not worth the effort of removing the waterproof features outside. Also, folks will use a good tape, like gorilla duct tape, to seal off the vents on the outside louvres.
Yes, keep your coach more airtight.
Chris

akeyzoo
The disadvantage to that, (on warm or hot days and nights) is that ALL of the heat the fridge generates when cooling itself, warms/heats the living space of the RV.
Mel
'96 Safari

89sandman · 05-26-2014, 02:01 PM

The next owners may want another rv fridge, leaving the venting would be a plus for resale...

PushedAround · 05-26-2014, 02:26 PM

If you check the owners manuals on these refrigerators, you will see that they need air circulation in order to work properly. Most of the smaller units generally put the condenser coil against the inside of back wall, and that requires a flow of air from underneath, up the back and over the top. They spec clearances behind and on top of the frig. Since my installation was super tight, with no clearance underneath or on top. I left my roof vent and side panel operational to get air circulation up the back wall.