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Old 08-12-2013, 03:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
There's your answer JR !
never even thought about that and I had air bags on a previous tv that would raise it MORE than 6 inches ...
Yeah! If that's the case then I'm going to definitely call AirLift tomorrow. Would also get the benefit of a nice air assisted ride...kill 2 birds with one stone.

I wonder if they would give me enough lift to solve this problem?

Thanks again JBToo!
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:33 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by JRMEDPHYS View Post
My driveway and my 34' gulfstream sun voyager don't get along very well when trying to get in and out, the driveway is so steep I had to build some (pretty heavy) wooden ramps so that the rear of the unit doesn't scrape.

I am considering these...Ultra-Fab Skid Wheels for Class A RVs 34' and Longer - 6" Diameter - Qty 2 Ultra-Fab Products Motorhome Accessories UF48-979013

Anyone have the same/similar problem? Have you used these? Do they work?

Any advice is welcome

Jeff
That is WAY too much money, go to a Military Surplus Store buy the wheels and mounting plates there, I had a set on our 38ft TT worked ok.
JMHO
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:11 PM   #17
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I would want solid steel wheels, no rubber/nylon coating which will be ground-off in 2-3 scrapes. I remember seeing a roller mounted beneath the rear hitch that was about 8" wide, looked like a roller from a conveyor. That would not work with a full-width mud flap though.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:22 PM   #18
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That is WAY too much money, go to a Military Surplus Store buy the wheels and mounting plates there, I had a set on our 38ft TT worked ok.
JMHO
Thanks for the reply wthur.

I have tried the local surplus and no luck. They only have smaller lower capacity castors available. Great minds think alike!

I am trying to source a comparable castor from local factory supply companies and the prices so far have been comparable.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:33 PM   #19
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I would want solid steel wheels, no rubber/nylon coating which will be ground-off in 2-3 scrapes. I remember seeing a roller mounted beneath the rear hitch that was about 8" wide, looked like a roller from a conveyor. That would not work with a full-width mud flap though.
Thanks for the comment Ray.

Because it was only my trailer hitch that was first to strike the driveway when backing up I have tried a steel castor sold by the same company that attaches under the trailer hitch...

http://www.etrailer.com/Motorhome-Ac...48-979020.html

It works in that it does roll, but two problems. The first is that it doesn't give me enough lift by itself to clear the rest of the rear end. The second is that is still leaves a pretty good scar on the concrete.

The larger rollers fix the first problem and with them being covered in high impact polyurethane, they should not damage the driveway. I am hopeful they will last longer than a couple uses. I don't expect to use them often, maybe a half dozen times a year.

I appreciate your opinion. Thanks for that.

Surprised I still haven't heard of anyone who has experience with actually using them on a MH.
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:34 PM   #20
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My Toyota Camry would bottom out when I pulled into the street from my drive. I found that the addition of a few bags of gravel spread out at the proper location resolved this.

I'm not sure if you have a gravel, concrete or asphalt drive. But there is that "sweet spot" if elevated, that makes it all better. And that spot is not always where it "scrapes". (For me at least)
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Old 08-12-2013, 05:39 PM   #21
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My Toyota Camry would bottom out when I pulled into the street from my drive. I found that the addition of a few bags of gravel spread out at the proper location resolved this.

I'm not sure if you have a gravel, concrete or asphalt drive. But there is that "sweet spot" if elevated, that makes it all better. (For me at least)
Thanks for the reply wjell.

The problem is exactly where my concrete driveway meets the concrete gutter. The asphalt at the road is pitched up towards the center of the road and the apron of the driveway is equally pitched making a pretty big low spot at the gutter where the wood ramps work well for me. Just very heavy. That's my challenge.

Wish it was gravel!!!
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:30 PM   #22
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Jeff.....I had to edit my post (weld on wheel) after reading the last thread about dragging the driveway. I use the weld on wheel on my DP and it works well.

I had a 2004 Fleetwood Terra 32' that would not back up my steep ramp into my backyard. I added the AirLift airbags and popped for the compressor kit too. The compressor mounts (works well in a bay) wherever you want to put it (size about 8"x 8"). It comes with two filler switches and gauges for the dash. When I arrived home, I could just inflate the bags from the driver's seat to their maximum, which was 100psi. This gave me 4" of rear lift.

Added benefit.....Once they were installed, I was able to level the coach from side to side for load adjustment and put a little lift in the rear. To my surprise, once I leveled side to side and then added about an inch of lift, the coach really handle much better.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:44 PM   #23
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I had to edit mine as a result as well. Good point! We're on the same page Don! Thanks for the input...much appreciated.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:48 PM   #24
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Jeff.....I had to edit my post (weld on wheel) after reading the last thread about dragging the driveway. I use the weld on wheel on my DP and it works well.

I had a 2004 Fleetwood Terra 32' that would not back up my steep ramp into my backyard. I added the AirLift airbags and popped for the compressor kit too. The compressor mounts (works well in a bay) wherever you want to put it (size about 8"x 8"). It comes with two filler switches and gauges for the dash. When I arrived home, I could just inflate the bags from the driver's seat to their maximum, which was 100psi. This gave me 4" of rear lift.

Added benefit.....Once they were installed, I was able to level the coach from side to side for load adjustment and put a little lift in the rear. To my surprise, once I leveled side to side and then added about an inch of lift, the coach really handle much better.
Thanks again Don!

This is where I am leaning now. Your experience makes me feel this is a better way to go. I agree the added benefits of ride improvement are an attractive byproduct. I will look into AirLift tomorrow.

MUCH appreciated!
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:48 PM   #25
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I've been thru this, and geez, we're talking about 2 or 3 inches of travel that the wheels will hit the ground, if the frame can't handle that, it has no business having a building on top of it!

BUT-- I put a set of STEEL WHEEL casters on my 24' boat trailer for the same reason, which were about twice as beefy as those casters look to be, and they lasted exactly 2 trips up the driveway before they bent bad enough to become useless. I may be wrong but I don't think those casters will last much longer..

Have you seen how the move hot tubs these days? They have skids made out of a 4 x 12' sheet of teflon, with a rope harness on the front, then they just lay down a moving pad and put the tub on it's side- one guy pulling and one guy pushing can move an 800# hot tub across lawn, cement or gravel with hardly any effort...

My point-- a strong metal skid with teflon pads will probably work better than wheels. Or, how about a skid (or wheel) that uses the trailer hitch?

(just throwin' stuff out there!)
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Old 08-12-2013, 07:04 PM   #26
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I've been thru this, and geez, we're talking about 2 or 3 inches of travel that the wheels will hit the ground, if the frame can't handle that, it has no business having a building on top of it!

My problem is they will be in contact with the driveway for 36-48 inches, not just 2 or 3.

BUT-- I put a set of STEEL WHEEL casters on my 24' boat trailer for the same reason, which were about twice as beefy as those casters look to be, and they lasted exactly 2 trips up the driveway before they bent bad enough to become useless. I may be wrong but I don't think those casters will last much longer..

These castors look to be about the 5000lb capacity and you may be right that they won't last very long. That is one of my concerns as well. Was hoping to hear that someone has used them but it doesn't sound like it, at least on this forum.

Have you seen how the move hot tubs these days? They have skids made out of a 4 x 12' sheet of teflon, with a rope harness on the front, then they just lay down a moving pad and put the tub on it's side- one guy pulling and one guy pushing can move an 800# hot tub across lawn, cement or gravel with hardly any effort...

My point-- a strong metal skid with teflon pads will probably work better than wheels.

Interesting! I have to think about that one a little but I see your point.

Or, how about a skid (or wheel) that uses the trailer hitch?

I tried that and it doesn't work very well without causing damage to the driveway and it doesn't give me enough lift to clear the rest of the rear end

(just throwin' stuff out there!)
Thanks for the reply Play! Appreciate your comments.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:54 AM   #27
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My neighbor came over last night to check on me after the heart surgery. I asked him about dragging in his driveway. He said he had pipe sections welded to the frame of his TT so he can add/remove 2 crazy wheels when they are needed for just his driveway entrance. He said he uses standard drawbar pins to hold the wheels in the pipe since they have a 1.5"D, 4" long stud for mounting.
I suspect that would not be sturdy enough for use under a MH though.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:48 PM   #28
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Just got off the phone with AirLift. According to them, their kit will not increase the ride height by more than 1.5 inches. That's not going to work for me.
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