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Old 11-29-2013, 04:31 PM   #1
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Slide out switch burned up!!

My slide out switch got stuck in the "IN" position without my noticing and it melted the backside of the switch and three of the wire connectors after a few hours of voltage applied.

Long story short, replaced the switch and the slide out will still not operate. While the generator is running, I can hear the generator load change while pressing the "IN" and "OUT".

This kind of tells me the voltage is getting to the slide out drive motor...maybe.

I am going to do some testing tomorrow morning. I have a multimeter to test. One test I think will be good is to unplug the two wire harness going to the drive motor and see if I get 12v when the switch is pressed for in or out. Does this sound like a good test to prove the wiring from the switch all the way to the connector on the drive motor?

One other thing I think would be a good test is to see if I have continuity by putting the multimeter leads in the two slide motor connectors and see if I can get a continuity beep from the multimeter.

Sound like good tests?

Any suggestions are welcome.
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:50 PM   #2
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I believe you have a fully electric slide mechanism, switch-to-relay-to-slide-motor. If you have hydraulic, disregard this reply.
The motor may or may not read continuity, and whatever it reads won't be proof of anything in particular.
The switch probably powers a relay, and the relay powers the actual slide motor. Your initial test is a good one, to see if the motor is being "told" to run, and you can see if it is running if you have someone else toggle the switch & you attend to the motor.
Could be the relay isn't sending the call to the motor, could be the relay is sending but the contacts are not capable any more of full amps to run the motor.
One thing I'd conclude- the switch isn't very capable or else there is a snafu that tried to pass undue amperage thru the switch.
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:01 PM   #3
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I suspect the switch is carrying the motor load since almost any switch will carry a relay coil load indefinitely.Also, a more meaningful test would be to test voltage at the slide motor while the slide switch is engaged. As Mike stated,this is all based on a non-hydraulic system that uses an electric motor with a gear mechanism to move the slide.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:05 PM   #4
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It is an electric motor driving the slide out. I will post out testing results tomorrow afternoon.

Thanks for the replies!
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Old 11-30-2013, 03:43 PM   #5
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Well, finished the testing, as much as I can to figure out the extent of the damage to the slide out.

Brother in law in the coach and me on the multimeter at the slide out drive motor.

Unplugged the connector from the drive motor and put the two leads from my multimeter into the two coach side connectors:

Pressed the "IN" side of the switch and got 12.6v
Pressed the "OUT" side of the swtich and got 12.6v

Put the two multimeter leads into the motor side connector and got a continuity beep.

Any comments?
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:17 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bad Bolt View Post
Well, finished the testing, as much as I can to figure out the extent of the damage to the slide out.

Brother in law in the coach and me on the multimeter at the slide out drive motor.

Unplugged the connector from the drive motor and put the two leads from my multimeter into the two coach side connectors:

Pressed the "IN" side of the switch and got 12.6v
Pressed the "OUT" side of the swtich and got 12.6v

Put the two multimeter leads into the motor side connector and got a continuity beep.

Any comments?
yep I have an important comment. If you did not change the leads around just basically put them in the coach side connector and left them there. The had your BIL hit the in side of the switch then the out side of the switch you should have had a plus 12.6 volts and then a negative 12.6 volts. It does not matter which was plus or which was negative at this stage of troubleshooting what matters is that with the switch pushed in it was something and with it pushed the other way it was negative something. If you did not have that then you need to look at your reversing mechanism. If you have a switch to motor and no relay it will be the switch itself. Please post if you saw the polarity reversal and we can go from there.

You can also make some heavy duty small jumper leads. something with about 12 gauge stranded wire. Hook two leads to the motor connector. run them to a 12 volt battery if nothing happens reverse the polarity of them. If nothing happens then buy a new motor
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:03 PM   #7
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At this point, I do think the motor is at issue, here. I am going to run a direct connection from a 12v battery to the motor asap. Just need to dig up some wire.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:30 PM   #8
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At this point, I do think the motor is at issue, here. I am going to run a direct connection from a 12v battery to the motor asap. Just need to dig up some wire.
I think it is also but to be honest there is a possibility that it is not. Small one though. You did not say if the polarity switched when he switched directions on the polarity of the switch. If the Motor is controlled by a solid switch relay those use solid state components. When you measure the output of some solid state components they can actually leak a few milliamps of current. Any kind of impedance like a motor will actually negate that current. However a digital VOM has a input impedance in the megohms. It actually can show 12 volts when the device has not switched on to drive the motor. I do not think that is what is happening here but if you try the motor with jumpers and it works. That would explain why. Now that I have said all of that I am reasonably sure it is going to be the motor.
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Old 12-01-2013, 01:47 PM   #9
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Took some pictures of the unit. Will do more testing in a few hours and post.

From the pictures, the motor looks to be a snap to remove, where there is a bolt and nut on each side of the output shafts and those output shafts look to slide on a smaller shaft at each end of the slide out. Does this sound correct?

Just need to make sure the slide out is secured before removing the motor.

I checked Ebay for the model I have and don't see anything. Anyone know a good source for my model/part?



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Old 12-01-2013, 05:38 PM   #10
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Got to the testing of a direct connected 12 automotive battery that was fully charged.

Result:

For both polarity tests, the motor did move the slide...but, only a few inches, either way.

This indicates to me that the motor is barely functional and weak.

Comments?
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:19 PM   #11
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You had power applied to that motor for HOURS while it was in a stalled condition. Electric motors don't take well to that kind of treatment.

The motor is toast...
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Old 12-01-2013, 10:09 PM   #12
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Does anyone have any sources I could contact that would not rake me over the coals on a new motor.

I was thinking about a used unit from a bone yard e.g. Visone.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:19 AM   #13
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Found one. New part number, though....523983. Ordered through Camping World for $530 shipped.

Looks like all I need to do is remove the few bolts mounting it to the chassis, remove the nut/bolt on each output shaft, slide the square bars away from the motor to get the unit out. Reverse all steps for new motor.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:51 AM   #14
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clutch

Did you try rotating the clutch. In case you don't know what that is, it's the lever-looking thing on the end of the motor. But you rotate like trying to unscrew a jar lid. One way unlocks a brake so that the slideout can be manually operated. Try running the motor with your jumper/battery setup with the clutch turned ccw and cw. It only rotates about 20 degrees.
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