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Old 05-17-2012, 07:53 AM   #1
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Slow leak in one jack...

We have a '04 HR Neptune, (yes, with the new trailing arms and ride enhancements). We are at a campground now, and we noticed that apparently there is a slow leak in the left rear leveling jack, because after a day, the bedroom door swings a little bit when open. I turned the key on and bumped the switch and releveled it, but the next day it is off slightly again.

It has a RVA JII hydraulic leveling system. I plan to get under the coach to inspect for hydraulic leaks next week at home, (and look for spiders first).
Do you have any ideas or experience that I should know? By the way, is there a good way to get rid of any spiders living under it?
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:59 AM   #2
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I'd check first to see if the ground is soft and allowing the jack foot to sink.
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Old 05-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #3
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I added a tranni leak stop to my tank a few years ago to try and stop ATF from bleeding out of my Power Gear rear jack. It would leak about a cup out every few days when parked and puddle in the landing pad.

Haven't had the problem since.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:04 PM   #4
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parked on concrete pad

I guess I should have said that we are parked on a concrete pad. So, the soft ground is not the slow leak problem. But, thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 05-17-2012, 02:09 PM   #5
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Thanks for the tip, Jim. I don't have any visible leak at the ram, but maybe I will find something on a hose, etc.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:38 PM   #6
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I also have RVA levelers and had a rear leveler slow leak.
I called RVA and the price for a new one was approx $650.00 and a 4-6 week wait.
I removed the cylinder and took it to a hydraulic equipt repair place (found it in the yellow pages) and they rebuilt the cylinder for less than half the price of a new one, and completed it in 2 days. That was over a year ago and all is well with that one, now the other one is doing the same thing, so that one will need to be rebuilt this year. Good Luck
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:52 PM   #7
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Thanks for the tip, Jim. I don't have any visible leak at the ram, but maybe I will find something on a hose, etc.
If you can't find a hose connection or the jack leaking, It is probably the hyd. solonoid or valve that is leaking back into the tank.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:37 PM   #8
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If you can't find a hose connection or the jack leaking, It is probably the hyd. solonoid or valve that is leaking back into the tank.
Oooo. That's a good tip. Those valves aren't hard to remove & clean are they ga traveler?
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:46 PM   #9
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Had a slow leak on my Power Gear jacks last fall. Seal was leaking, depressed about 2 inches in two days. Replacement was $650 for the pair plus installation. I had the front two rebuilt for $250 for the pair at a local hydraulic repair shop. They work like new.
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Old 05-18-2012, 06:56 AM   #10
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I will probably take your good advice and remove the cylinder for rebuilding. I am thinking that there are probably O rings in it that are damaged. I wonder if a person could get new O rings, clean the cylinder, and replace the O rings their self. If not, I will get it rebuilt at a shop.
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Old 05-18-2012, 07:41 AM   #11
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Oooo. That's a good tip. Those valves aren't hard to remove & clean are they ga traveler?
This is easy on Power Gear and HWH. I would think it is not hard on your jacks. Of course, make sure the jacks are all the way up, with no pressure on them.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:00 PM   #12
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Pogo,
Had the exact problem with the RR Jack on my RVA system. No fluid leak anywhere, but slow retraction of jack over time. This is a common problem, and is not the Jack itself (Thank Goodness). The RVA company is still in business, and have a good website also. The original founder is still available by phone and is a great guy.
This problem is almost always a leaky retraction valve on the valve body. Each jack has an extend and retract valve on the valve body assembly located above your fluid tank. The extend valves have a "T" handle on them to release the jack if it will not go back up in an emergency. All "T" handles must be closed firmly, but not overly tight---hand tight only. Your owner's manual or web site will show you which set of valves control what jack (Label them). The retract valve (No "T" handle) is located next to the extend valve. Most likely, this is the culprit. Remove the retract valve using the instructions provided on the web site (Very easy), replace the "O" rings (2 ea.) and re-install. Or you can R&R the entire Valve assembly---Phone order thru company. I replaced the "O" rings with no problems, then ordered a complete retract valve for a spare. Works great. According to the RVA jack owner, if you have no fluid leak from the jack itself, this problem is almost always a retract valve problem. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:08 AM   #13
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WD 40 will kill spiders on contact.

Use a product called Trans X in your hydraulic fluid, it is designed to gently restore "O" rings to original size and the seals as well.

It cleans up internal parts and gets rid of varnish causing valves to stick.

The only product I found that really works in all types of oil devices.

It worked in my 96 Dolphin, had a jack leaking and it stopped it completely.

I kept adding it until it leaked no more.

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Old 05-30-2012, 12:35 AM   #14
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I've had the same problem with my RVA jacks for the past couple of years. If you go on their web site there's instructions on how to fix it. In a nutshell: open the manual valve for the troublesome jack, then close it all the way. Mine was a tad loose. then pull the coils off and pull the valves out. Make sure you don't get a spec of dirt on them, just re-install. top off the tank, cycle the jack a couple of times, and it will probably fix itself.

Unless there's fluid on the ground it's usually a spec of dirt under one of the valve seats. removing and re-installing moves the fluid around a bit and flushes the area.
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