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Old 02-26-2012, 09:38 AM   #15
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I have never heard of the battery losing computer memory for a vehicle for smog.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:34 PM   #16
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Yes it happens. This was a first for me. I asked about it over on the rv.net site and ford site and others have had the same thing happen,that is how I found out about why I failed the smog test.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:12 PM   #17
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Change the oil and filters air and oil as they ether trap hydrocarbons or restrict the incoming air flow.
Check that you don't have any trouble codes even non engine TCs.
If its a dyno test make sure your tire pressure is right or above spec.

Make sure you have fresh gas in you tank. stale gas can cause real problems
i have had friends that have left there MHs set with gas in them over the winter and because there smog test came in the spring and the had 5 to 6 month old stale gas in the tank they failed
If you have duel tanks drain all the gas from one and then use fresh gas for the test.
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by srzak View Post
I have never heard of the battery losing computer memory for a vehicle for smog.
All OBDII systems will leave a code for "recent battery disconnect" which will not allow a smog cert to be issued even if the vehicle passes the emissions test. It takes the completion of 3 drive cycles (cold to normal engine operating temperature) to clear it.

This was designed into the vehicles onboard computer system to make sure someone does not just clear the computer codes instead of repairing it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:06 PM   #19
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Good to know just put a new battery in it. Thanks for your input.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:05 PM   #20
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Ditto about recent battery disconnection clearing out stored memory.

Re the smog check ....
Here are some additional bits of advice that I've found useful when getting my vehicles smogged in CA over past 25 years:

1 -- You likely have already done this but just in case, look carefully at your DMV renewal notice. At the top it clearly states which TYPE of test station you are required to use.

2 -- Before just showing up, call in advance and see if they do, in fact, test RVs and the basic cost. That'll keep you from wasting time going somewhere that will not or cannot test RVs.

3 -- Make an appointment in advance. That way the test station won't turn you away because "the RV guy" is unavailable. And an appointment should help minimize the overall time it takes to complete the testing.

4 -- Ask your friends if they can recommend a place. Then if you do go there, tell them you were referred by one of their customers. This may not always result in something "good," but my regular testing station gives both the current and new (you) customer a discount on referrals.

5 -- Search online or in the various junk mailers to see if you can find a money-off coupon or other advertised specials.

6 -- Once passing the test, the station electronically sends the "pass certificate" directly to the DMV. The only documentation you'll get is pretty much a receipt, with your RVs test scores included, etc. So I strongly suggest (for all vehicles) that you keep all paperwork, just in case there's a glitch with the DMV receiving the "pass cert."

Good luck! I know it can be a PITA getting vehicles smogged in CA. The cost is also an aggravation. But IMO it's a relatively streamlined process, so long as people read and follow the instructions. (btw i'm not saying you didn't)
:-)
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:25 PM   #21
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5 -- Search online or in the various junk mailers to see if you can find a money-off coupon or other advertised specials.
Great tip BL, Forgot to mention to look in the throw aways for coupons.

I save the ones that don't have expiration dates. Usually $40.00 or less for a car, but have not found a shop that takes coupons for RV's
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