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Old 05-25-2011, 10:29 AM   #15
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Hi Charles: Hey another major project.. (I just had to remove the water heater to repair the wall there and add a support 'floor' for the heater.)

Your floor....
The underfloor support is the steel bulkheads separating each compartment. There are welded inch and a half angle iron stringers running fore & aft. The flooring is screwed to both. The top of the rear wheel well shows this construction. There are 4 stringers there and that would be under part of the area you are working on. There is a weatherproof fabric between the framing and the floor. The stringers are not the same spacing throughout but it looks like they are always alongside the floor ducting.
Removing the wardrobe and bath closet looks formidable. May be necessary to remove any damaged subfloor and just overlay the area inside those closets...
take care, hope this helps..
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Old 05-25-2011, 11:48 AM   #16
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I bet the closets are screwed from the inside and with a bright flashlite, the screws may be seen.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:56 PM   #17
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I'm not sure that it will help much but here is a picture



What you are looking at is the toilet area with the toilet to the bottom right of the picture. I'm pulling the linoleum up. What you can see is
1. The rotted OSB as it goes under the two walls. It is nearly flush with the wall on the left were it runs out the the large soft spot in front of the sink. You probably cannot see the 3/4" gap between the top of the rotted OSB under the cabinet and the bottom rail of that cabient
2. The good OSB that the dealer put in in 2004. The fact that it hasn't deteriorated indicated to me that the water leak that caused the original problem has not continued.
3. In the upper right of the picture, you can barely see the good original OSB that the dealer used as a seam point.

The dealer's patch does not go all the way down to structure below. He glued it to the top damaged OSB. There is a small gap between the new OSB and the damaged OSB which runs from the center of the door frame which you can barely see in the left of the picture about the middle of the bathroom/hallway in front of the sink.

I repaired my roof last year. I'm assuming that the floor is similar construction. There is a metal 2x2 "frame" with Styrofoam in the gaps between the metal frame pieces. The difference with the floor is that the bottom part of the "sandwich" around the metal structure is a sheet of thin metal. In the roof, it is thin luan. The top of the sandwich is the OSB. My challenge will be to either cut the OSB back to where a metal member exists (with the new and the old OSB meeting on top of that member for support) or create a wood cross beam to handle that situation. That will be difficult enough in the open areas. I'm not sure how I'm going to do it if it is under the wall or the cabinet. I'm not going to know about any of that until I have the rotted OSB removed.

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Old 05-25-2011, 01:13 PM   #18
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Yes, Hooligan. Another major project. I appreciate your help with it, as always. I don't know what I'd do without the support that I get on this forum when it comes to these kinds of situations.

I really need to be retired. Without adding in the master bathroom and kitchen remodels which are long overdue and which my crack three man crew (me, myself and I) will get a chance to work on, I have 500 hours with of others things. This floor problem is just icing on that cake.

It really isn't the work involved but about figuring out how to do the work. Once I have the right approach, I can dive in like anyone else and get 'er done. We are stilling planning on going camping in June so my finishing this work is standing in the way of that plan. That probably means some late nights in my future. I'm thankful I finished the barn last year and that it is big enough to store the MH.

I'm going to start hacking on the damaged OSB this evening.

Charlie
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:30 PM   #19
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Hi Charles: Here is a post on replacing the floor in a Landau. It has some info on a complete rebuild. Also discusses a possible water entry from the wheel wells. Bathroom floor waterlogged from mystery leak
Hopefully your repair will not be that involved.....

I don't see any styrofoam in the floor construction. Only the OSB flooring screwed to the metal supports. That sheet of fabric water barrier is all that's between the flooring and the frame, including in the wheel well.....
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:04 PM   #20
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I hope you replace that OSB with marine grade plywood.
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:04 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ernie Ekberg View Post
I hope you replace that OSB with marine grade plywood.
That is a great idea

Here is today's progress



I have all of the rotten wood removed from in front of the sink. There is a black membrane over top of the metal frame. I was able to get the rotted wood out without punching through the membrane.


Here is a slightly different angle. Notice that I have the wood out from under the wall. The square area on the right is where the dealer had put the original patch in. So here are my challenges.

1. In the foreground of the first picture, you'll notice the heater duct opening. The wood around it is solid but as I try to square up the jagged left side of the hole, I'm going to have to be careful about how I do it.
2. The area under the wall is open and I could slide a board in there - except for two screws. The interesting part is that wall is not sitting on a beam and i'm not sure what the screws are tied into. I haven't figured out how I'm going to handle them yet.
3. The OSB is 5/8" thick. The dealer's patch used 1/2" OSB and two pieces of 1/8" luan, making the patch higher than the surrounding area. No wonder the floor has never felt level there! All I need to do is find 5/8" marine plywood.

My plan is to cut a single piece and try to slide it back under both the cabinet and the sink. I figure the joint being underneath them should be fine. The dealer had screwed his patch using metal screws into the metal below. I should be able to do the same. As long as the subfloor patch completely fills the space , it shouldn't shift. I will use a construction adhesive be my patch and the surrounding wood. I'm going to try to use a router and bit to cut into the good OSB to get a square edge. I figure if I have to score the last little bit with a knife, it will be better than grinding the router bit into the metal below. The key will be figuring out where the next longitudinal metal beam. I can easily find the horitonal (side to side) metal beams.

Hooligan, I'll look at the link that you sent and see if that makes me change any of my plans. Thanks so much for providing it.

Charlie
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Old 05-25-2011, 07:47 PM   #22
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Good progress so far Charles, that June trip is looking better already.....
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:06 PM   #23
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Good luck Charlie...I certainly hope I won't need this knowledge but I appreciate you keeping us informed as to your progress.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:43 PM   #24
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Charlie, when I replaced a section of floor in our MH I used a multi-tool to cut the floor and a small piece of sheet metal that I would slide under the existing floor so I did not cut the membrane under the flooring. Worked great except where the metal supports were as I couldn't get the sheet metal under the existing floor. I did cut a couple of small places in the membrane but duct tape on the inside and automotive undercoating on on the underside solved that problem.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:32 PM   #25
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The m ultifunction tool at harbor Freight is regular $60 but most of the time it is around $30 on sale. Believe it was on sale for $25 a few days ago. Will be on sale for $20 June 10-12. Check Harbor Freight on line for pricing. Two versions=fixed speed and a variable speed. The fixed speed works just fine for me. Comes with a set of blades
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Old 05-26-2011, 06:46 AM   #26
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Charlie, if you can't find a metal frame member to attach your new piece of plywood, you can attach pieces on the original floor from the bottom by screwing them in place from the top. Countersink your screws. This would give you a frame to secure your new piece. There are always ways to get these repairs made.
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Old 05-26-2011, 10:38 AM   #27
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Thanks, Ernie. I'm trying to avoid any more elements on the top layer of the subfloor than I absolutely have to have but will take your suggestion if I need it.

I'm on my way to pick up a friend's Fein Multimaster to hopefully cut the good floor back to a proper size. I'm also trying to find a local source of the 5/8" marine plywood. If I get those two things accomplished today, I'll be thrilled.

I'm still shopping for material for the floor, too.

Charlie
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Old 05-26-2011, 11:34 AM   #28
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Let me know what you think about the Fein. That tool is on my list. You can get some soft vinyl that is a pvc backed that you don't have to glue.
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