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Old 05-26-2011, 12:10 PM   #29
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Let me know what you think about the Fein. That tool is on my list. You can get some soft vinyl that is a pvc backed that you don't have to glue.
Ernie, do you have a local source for that vinyl? I'd be willing to drive to Weatherford or anywhere else in the Metroplex to pick it up. I'm not having much luck finding anything workable on my own. I really don't care about having to glue it down but do want something that is durable. I don't want to do any part of this job twice.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:33 PM   #30
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Charlie,

We had to replace part of the subfloor in our 1998 Alumascape FW. Could not find 5/8" marine plywood so we got 5/8" regular plywood and treated it with some sort of green wood treatment (SO got the stuff and did the treating, I just saw the green wood).

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Old 05-26-2011, 12:51 PM   #31
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I don't have a source for that small of an area, unfortunately. If you go to a regular full service flooring store, they may have a remnant that would work for you.
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:44 PM   #32
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I don't have a source for that small of an area, unfortunately. If you go to a regular full service flooring store, they may have a remnant that would work for you.
The "full service" places that I've checked with so far don't carry linoleum any more. Maybe I need to recheck my definition of "full service." The best that I can find is someone who could order in a full width size (12 feet) to my length. Actually, he would order it and I would go somewhere to pick it up.

I've found 5/8" marine plywood in Ft. Worth - @ $72 a sheet plus tax. I guess that is going to be the price of admission for this repair. I haven't found 5/8" OSB yet so that wasn't even going to be an option.
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Old 05-26-2011, 02:08 PM   #33
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I'm glad you were able to get plywood.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:29 AM   #34
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It has been a tough work week and I have 5 different projects going on personally at the same time. What a zoo!

I have the marine plywood in hand. Everything being equal, I'm going to finish cutting the floor with the Fein tool and fit the plywood in tomorrow. I picked up a can of crack filler (thanks to a suggestion from JWalker) to fill any voids and make sure that I'm working from a level flat surface.

I've also found a vinyl product that comes in 12" squares and looks a lot like ceramic tiles. The most important part is that DW is pleased with it. I'm picking that up in the next hour or so and have my fingers crossed that I can get it installed in the next couple of days.

I'll have pictures after the subfloor piece is installed and again when I have the floor product finished. I may have stories to tell about getting the subfloor piece under the wall. I sure hope they are short stories.
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Old 06-03-2011, 11:45 AM   #35
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If the patch is odd shaped you may want to make a pattern with cardboard which is a little less expensive and easier to fit.When I did odd shaped things like skylight tunnels I would use flexible plastic and a staple gun to make patterns then cut the sheetrock form them.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:21 PM   #36
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I finally got through all of the other things that kept getting in my way and started to work on this yesterday.

- I have the hole cut to a uniform shape - 24" by 38.5".
- I've removed the fasteners that held the wall in place. They were two rusted screws
- I've cut the piece of marine plywood to almost the correct dimensions. When I attempted to test fit it, I cannot get it flat enough to slide under the wall because of the toilet flange. Tonight, I'm going to see how much of hte wall I have to remove from the bottom to slide the piece in place.

I'm pleased with all of joints except one. The passenger side joint is over a metal crossbeam below and will be well supported. The drivers side joint has two metal horizontal beams close together and is well supported. The back joint, both inside and outside the toilet area is under cabinets and shouldn't be a problem.

The remaining joint runs across the normal walking path and needs support. Using the Fein tool, I think that I can open up enough area under the existing OSB to shove half of a 2" flat steel bar under. I would notch the new marine plywood to accept the steel bar and then screw into that bar on both sides in the center span. I also will use construction adhesive to tie the wood on both sides to the metal bar. Thoughts? Alternatives? I don't think that there is room to scab a piece of wood underneath.

There is some sort of flat headed metal fastener (indented Phillips head) that was through the original OSB and down into the metal near a heater vent. I haven't found anything to budge it yet. I may end up having to drill it out in the center. I'm impressed by the fastener and would like to use something like that myself in other spots. Does anyone have any idea where to buy them?

If I can figure the wall out, final fit the new wood and get it fastened down, I can lay the new floor this weekend.

Thanks for any more help that you can provide.

Charlie
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:50 PM   #37
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Do you have any companies like Fastenal near you? If not they do sell on line.

When you say a 2" bar are you talking just a flat strap for the brace if so you might want to consider using an angle bracket instead, it'll be a lot stronger for where and how your going to use it and you can use a smaller gauge metal as well.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:57 PM   #38
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There is some sort of flat headed metal fastener (indented Phillips head) that was through the original OSB and down into the metal near a heater vent. I haven't found anything to budge it yet. I may end up having to drill it out in the center. I'm impressed by the fastener and would like to use something like that myself in other spots. Does anyone have any idea where to buy them?
Check at Home Depot or Lowe's. When I was repair my floor I found they had several that met my needs. You will also need a #2 or #3 square bit for your drill.
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Old 07-12-2011, 11:42 AM   #39
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Hi,
If you haven't already bought the tile, I'd suggest making up a section from Allure or a similar material that forms a sealed joint rather than tile. This will prevent water from passing between the tiles and repeating the problem.
JM2C, Good luck!
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Old 07-12-2011, 03:53 PM   #40
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Do you have any companies like Fastenal near you? If not they do sell on line.

When you say a 2" bar are you talking just a flat strap for the brace if so you might want to consider using an angle bracket instead, it'll be a lot stronger for where and how your going to use it and you can use a smaller gauge metal as well.
Thanks, John

I considered an angle bracket but there is no room for the angle part to be put down (I'm resting the metal on existing metal beams) and putting it up means that only one side of the joint I'm trying to bridge will be covered.

I think that there is a Fastenal in one of the industrial complexes not to far away. I didn't think that they did retail but I'll try.

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Old 07-12-2011, 03:58 PM   #41
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I think that there is a Fastenal in one of the industrial complexes not to far away. I didn't think that they did retail but I'll try.
Fastenal takes anyones money Also look at Home Depot/Lowe's
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Old 07-12-2011, 04:18 PM   #42
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You might consider placing two straps spanning each corner like the hypotenuse of a triangle. It could be screwed to each side and screwed to the filler piece giving three anchor points in both corners. Just a thought.
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