Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
RV Trip Planning Discussions

Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 11-08-2019, 08:50 AM   #57
Senior Member
 
craigbenoit's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: 12/29/23 LaBelle FL
Posts: 183
Aluminum to Steel Wheel

One thing to check is the lug-nuts. I swapped the 4 wheels on my 2008 Toyota Tundra each fall/spring from aluminum wheels with all season Michelins to steel wheels Bridgestone Blizzarks for winter. It required different lug-nuts for the steel wheels.

Yes it was a 4x4 but the Blizzarks made a huge difference on ice and I did not do any heavy towing during the winter months.
craigbenoit is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 11-10-2019, 06:01 AM   #58
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,063
Quote:
Originally Posted by grindstone01 View Post
In the old days, most mechanics would use a lug wrench with a pipe and most MH's have built in jacks to raise a rig. In a emergency situation, you don't need to torque the lug nuts, just get them tight enough to get to a tire shop or check them every 100 miles until you get there. Most people have the capacity to change a tire if they really had too.

The jacks built into motor homes are not really designed to support wheels off the ground with some systems designed to flip up in the event you forget them down and try to drive off. Most will also require you to have a length of 4X4, 6X6 or Rail Road Tie to put under them to get enough lift to raise the one wheel position enough to change a tire and then you should still put a jack stand or at least a bottle jack under the axle having a length of 2X12 and a 16" diameter or larger metal plate or thick plywood disk underneath when on soft ground and not on a heavy concrete pad.

I do carry the correct tools to change the tire myself even if I am not up to the task since many times road side assistance vehicles may not have all the correct tools with them and may not be able to remove the simulator nuts for example without damage or some other item.

I carry the following specifically for tire and wheel emergencies:
  • Beam Style Torque Wrench
  • Oil Lubed Pancake Style Air Compressor
  • 650 Lb Capacity Impact Wrench
  • 100 feet of Air Hose in 25 Foot Lengths
  • Locking Air Chuck and Remote Inflation Valve which can be used on any section of air hose.
  • 2 sets of Deep Impact Sockets to cover all common size car and motor home lug nuts and fasteners.
  • Industrial Breaker Bar with 6 Feet of Handle Extensions.
  • Large Screw Driver
  • Medium Pry Bar
  • Dead Blow Hammer
  • 20 Ton Bottle Jack
  • Heavy Duty Mechanics Gloves
  • 4 Foot length of 2X4 with a wedge cut on one end to help jocky tires about.
  • 20 Ton Jack Stands
  • 16" Disk of 3/4" Plywood
  • 2 16" Lengths of 2X12
  • 2 16" lengths of 4X4
I also carry a small emergency tool kit from Harbor Freight for lighter repairs and at least a carpenters hammer, small/medium pipe wrench, drill, drill bits, Volt/Ohm Meter, sabre saw, hack saw, caulking frame and small hand saw.

Often on sale for less than $40 and very handy to have with you plus lifetime over the counter guaranteed so you can get items replaced at any Harbor Freight store you drive by even if you do not have your receipt with you:
__________________
Neil V
2001 Winnebago Adventurer WFG35U
NeilV is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 08:14 AM   #59
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 262
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeilV View Post
The jacks built into motor homes are not really designed to support wheels off the ground with some systems designed to flip up in the event you forget them down and try to drive off. Most will also require you to have a length of 4X4, 6X6 or Rail Road Tie to put under them to get enough lift to raise the one wheel position enough to change a tire and then you should still put a jack stand or at least a bottle jack under the axle having a length of 2X12 and a 16" diameter or larger metal plate or thick plywood disk underneath when on soft ground and not on a heavy concrete pad.

I do carry the correct tools to change the tire myself even if I am not up to the task since many times road side assistance vehicles may not have all the correct tools with them and may not be able to remove the simulator nuts for example without damage or some other item.

I carry the following specifically for tire and wheel emergencies:
  • Beam Style Torque Wrench
  • Oil Lubed Pancake Style Air Compressor
  • 650 Lb Capacity Impact Wrench
  • 100 feet of Air Hose in 25 Foot Lengths
  • Locking Air Chuck and Remote Inflation Valve which can be used on any section of air hose.
  • 2 sets of Deep Impact Sockets to cover all common size car and motor home lug nuts and fasteners.
  • Industrial Breaker Bar with 6 Feet of Handle Extensions.
  • Large Screw Driver
  • Medium Pry Bar
  • Dead Blow Hammer
  • 20 Ton Bottle Jack
  • Heavy Duty Mechanics Gloves
  • 4 Foot length of 2X4 with a wedge cut on one end to help jocky tires about.
  • 20 Ton Jack Stands
  • 16" Disk of 3/4" Plywood
  • 2 16" Lengths of 2X12
  • 2 16" lengths of 4X4
I also carry a small emergency tool kit from Harbor Freight for lighter repairs and at least a carpenters hammer, small/medium pipe wrench, drill, drill bits, Volt/Ohm Meter, sabre saw, hack saw, caulking frame and small hand saw.

Often on sale for less than $40 and very handy to have with you plus lifetime over the counter guaranteed so you can get items replaced at any Harbor Freight store you drive by even if you do not have your receipt with you:
So that’s a lot of gear. Are you talking about 19.5” tires or 22.5” tires. I would be very interested to see how your pancake compressor actually takes off the lugs and whether you have enough pressure. 22.5’s would be a problem.
Bonron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 11:30 AM   #60
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 335
Hey Bonron,

My 19.5” wheels are held on by lug nuts tightened to 450 to 500 ft-lbs., just like your 22.5” wheels. I just have 8 of them instead of 10 you may have.

The wheels are also hub piloted, just like yours.

Us GP guys have more in common with you DP guys than you know.


BTW, Workhorse, the mfg of my chassis, states that the lug nut torque is on clean and DRY studs. This doesn’t agree with PatriciaM’s earlier statement: “(for hub piloted wheels, 2 drops of oil on fasteners/stud threads)”.
__________________
'06 Winnebago Voyage 33', W20, 8.1L
JoeSR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 12:36 PM   #61
Senior Member
 
richard5933's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Posts: 2,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeSR View Post
Hey Bonron,

My 19.5” wheels are held on by lug nuts tightened to 450 to 500 ft-lbs., just like your 22.5” wheels. I just have 8 of them instead of 10 you may have.

The wheels are also hub piloted, just like yours.

Us GP guys have more in common with you DP guys than you know.


BTW, Workhorse, the mfg of my chassis, states that the lug nut torque is on clean and DRY studs. This doesn’t agree with PatriciaM’s earlier statement: “(for hub piloted wheels, 2 drops of oil on fasteners/stud threads)”.
Lots of controversy on your last statement. Up here in the salt-belt, it's really common to have anti-seize used when installing lug nuts. Yes, the specs detail installing them dry. But, if you do that you may not get them off again. My coach is serviced at a shop that maintains a few fleets of commercial coaches, and I let them use their standard torque procedure which includes anti-seize and some really large torque wrenches.

I carry the tools that came with my coach from GM back in 1974 (spare tire, bottle jack, lug wrench, run-up ramp) as well as a torque multiplier. Push come to shove, I could probably get a tire changed. With the weight of our 315s though, it would have to be a life and death situation for me to not wait for help to arrive.
__________________
Richard
1994 Excella 25-ft (Gertie)
1999 Suburban LS 2500 w/7.4L V8
1974 GMC 4108a - Custom Coach Land Cruiser
richard5933 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 06:07 PM   #62
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 335
Hello Richard,

I live in Minnesota, well placed inside of the rust belt.

The MH doesn’t get used in the winter. So, no worries about its lug nuts freezing up with rust.

On my daily drivers (cars, pickups, rust buckets, etc.) I once used oil on the wheel studs and then later switched to anti-seize. Sometime in the past century manufacturers started plating at least the lug nuts (and studs as well I think). That has taken care of the rust problem for me. I don’t lube the studs anymore.

What I have found lately are wheels that are corroded solid to the axle hubs. Now, whenever I pull a wheel (aluminum or steel) I make sure that these mounting surfaces are clean and lightly coated with anti-seize (my public service announcement for all new DIYers).
__________________
'06 Winnebago Voyage 33', W20, 8.1L
JoeSR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2019, 06:26 PM   #63
Senior Member
 
Old Scout's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,396
….I have to admit that I haven't read all 60+ comments, this time; but to me, its more of a classic risk mgt decision vs a DIY challenge. The chance of a flat tire is pretty low but the "perceived" severity is rather high. Even at age 65, I still don't mine, too much, changing/ or breaking down a tire on a car or pick-up but on an RV with 22.5 rims, on the side of the road--don't think so. Do believe there is an argument for carrying a spare [mounted or not] but the most likely outcome is that you will eventually end up with a seriously outdated spare tire that took up a lot of space for a lot of years in your basement, or permanently mounted on your trailer hitch--IMHO.....
__________________
Old Scout
2015 IH45 Foretravel
2003 Alpine 40' MDTS [Sold]
New Braunfels, Texas
Old Scout is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2019, 06:11 AM   #64
Senior Member
 
Filthy-Beast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Chicago Area
Posts: 635
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Scout View Post
….I have to admit that I haven't read all 60+ comments, this time; but to me, its more of a classic risk mgt decision vs a DIY challenge. The chance of a flat tire is pretty low but the "perceived" severity is rather high. Even at age 65, I still don't mine, too much, changing/ or breaking down a tire on a car or pick-up but on an RV with 22.5 rims, on the side of the road--don't think so. Do believe there is an argument for carrying a spare [mounted or not] but the most likely outcome is that you will eventually end up with a seriously outdated spare tire that took up a lot of space for a lot of years in your basement, or permanently mounted on your trailer hitch--IMHO.....

My plan for when we get a used MH in 2 years would be to put a spare on a hitch mount by either buying a used tire or using one of the existing tires when I replace them, and then to continue to rotate an existing tire to the spare with each replacement.


The purpose of the spare would be to get me off the side of the road and allow me to limp to a tire shop to pay normal prices for a replacement instead of emergency pricing.
Filthy-Beast is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-12-2019, 08:46 AM   #65
Senior Member
 
vseasport's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Buena Vista, Baja California Sur
Posts: 797
Overwhelmed

Quote:
Originally Posted by vseasport View Post
I have had a class C motorhome since 1979 and just purchased my first Class A. The new rig (for me) is a Tiffin 2004 Phaeton 38. There is a lot of debate about carrying a spare tire and a lot of opinions.
Personally, I need to have a spare. We like to get off the beaten path and want to be as self sufficient as possible. We just changed the seven year old 22.5 Michelins and kept one to carry in the basement.
I want to mount the tire on a wheel and here is where the confusion comes in. My coach has aluminum wheels all around on the outside but the two inside dual wheels are steel. Does anyone have experience with this? Keep in mind this is just for a spare to get us to civilization. Will a steel wheel fit as a temporary replacement for an aluminum wheel?
I have been watching this forum for some time and finally joined to participate. I want to thank everybody that has responded. My question was anwered in the first two responses and since then there are a lot of ideas and opinions that have been presented and tossed around.

My conclusion is there is no right or wrong but choices and preferences. My decision has been to buy a steel wheel to mount a spare and carry it in my basement. The idea is not to save money but be prepared. Cars all have spares so why shouldn't a class A motorhome? Hopefully if ever needed it will help me gimp out of the weeds to civilization where we can get a proper repair or replacement.
vseasport is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Space Saver: Retract-A-Spare Under Chassis Spare Tire Carrier RVupgrades.com Vendor Spotlight (Deals, Announcements & More) 0 08-20-2019 02:49 PM
To have a spare or not a spare that is the question bassoneman MH-General Discussions & Problems 32 08-13-2016 05:24 PM
Spare tire or no spare tire R1Kirby iRV2.com General Discussion 25 05-11-2015 06:23 AM
Where to put the spare, spare tire. Virago-Rider Class A Motorhome Discussions 13 05-15-2014 10:06 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:00 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.