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Old 06-23-2016, 06:19 PM   #1
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Spark plug wires

Today, I changed out the spark plugs on our 2004 Damon 8.1L. Talking about a job made for a contortionist!

Anyway, I am concerned that I didn't get the new wires snapped back on the tip of the plugs. I am accustomed, from past auto work, of feeling a 'snap' when the wire has been correctly installed. These plugs have metal heat shields with springs. I pushed as hard as I could on the rubber base of the of plug wire and could not feel that it had snapped on. And, the heat shields seems loose. I suspect this to be a problem, since the engine would not fire right up afterward.

Is there a procedure for installing these type plug wires with metal heat shields, so as to ensure they are tightly fit onto the spark plugs ?

I'll get back on this work tomorrow, after I interview for a local job.
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:45 PM   #2
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try to rotate boot as ypu are pushing it onto plug
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:57 PM   #3
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Did you use the silicone grease to lube the rubber spark plug boot. It should have come with your wire set. A little dab in each boot really helps a lot.

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Old 06-25-2016, 06:12 AM   #4
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I agree with the silicone. Also, I find that if it requires pushing hard than it is not aligned. When I did mine, I just tried to go on straight and gently pushed (noting that I used silicone on the inside of the boot) and each went on with an audible click. Use silicone on the coil side as well, these should also click when they go on and sometimes the boot will mis-align the metal plug so they take a little fiddling to get them on straight. The silicone makes a huge difference on being able to align them correctly.

Are you doing this from above or below. I did mine from below and if was pretty good access. Once I shimmy into place there is quite a bit of room. I also put a nice carpet down to kneel on.

Of course, getting out again isn't' fun
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:55 AM   #5
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I agree with the silicone. Also, I find that if it requires pushing hard than it is not aligned. When I did mine, I just tried to go on straight and gently pushed (noting that I used silicone on the inside of the boot) and each went on with an audible click. Use silicone on the coil side as well, these should also click when they go on and sometimes the boot will mis-align the metal plug so they take a little fiddling to get them on straight. The silicone makes a huge difference on being able to align them correctly.

Are you doing this from above or below. I did mine from below and if was pretty good access. Once I shimmy into place there is quite a bit of room. I also put a nice carpet down to kneel on.

Of course, getting out again isn't' fun
Per the instructions, I spread the silicone inside the rubber boot on the coil side of each wire end and had no trouble getting these on. There was just enough silicone to do the coil end of the wires. It's the long, slender metal heat shield that prevents me from easily aligning the plug tip to the female end of the plug wire.

I'm having to 'snake' my body up and between the front wheels and the big block engine to do the work. I was late getting home yesterday and the heat index temperatures are running well over 100F in the last few weeks. So, I will get after it again this morning - staying ahead of the sun. Maybe, my strength was so far gone before, that I just didn't have enough energy left to work the wires onto the eight plugs. Thanks.
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Old 06-25-2016, 08:29 PM   #6
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Well, I found that I had completely missed one of the plugs with its shield. However, it would not instantly fire up as before, so I continued to work with the wires trying to ensure they were connecting onto each plug. But, the engine would not fire up until I disconnected the chassis battery and pulled the PCM fuse for several minutes before re-connecting the two.

The engine finally fired off and idled smoothly for about two minutes before it started its erratic behavior since the beginning. It finally went dead and then the engine would crank, but not fire off. I removed the fuse again and let it set for several hours.

This time I recorded the sound of the engine as it attempted to go dead several times and the corresponding unusual display of the temperature gage needle.

I am considering buying an auto engine scanner, although I have never had one and will have to learn to use it and interpret the codes.

[Unfortunately, I couldn't get past the 17% mark while trying to upload the video.]
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:28 AM   #7
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Did it run OK prior to the wire/plug swap?

When running, is the check engine light illuminated?

Are you looking for a scanner or a code reader?
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:26 PM   #8
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Did it run OK prior to the wire/plug swap?

When running, is the check engine light illuminated?

Are you looking for a scanner or a code reader?
I have had this engine performance for about a month and have replaced several parts, except the Intellitec electronic board located at the BDU.

No, the check engine light is not illuminated.

What is the difference between a scanner and a code reader? I am not very familiar with them. What is the difference?
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Old 06-27-2016, 06:47 AM   #9
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Not sure what you are looking for, but I use something called a "Blue Driver", which plugs into the OBD II port under the dash and uses bluetooth to communicate with a phone or tablet. This allows me to carry a small device on the road and use it if we have an issue. It does allow for some real time data to be displayed on the phone while the engine is running. There are other devices as well, but the Blue Driver was only $100 and they are always updating the software to add more/better functions.
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