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Old 05-04-2014, 12:23 PM   #15
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Looks to me like you are doing a great job . Mike
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Old 05-04-2014, 05:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by donwat91 View Post
Jasperxray, I thank you for your comments. That's what this is all about, getting the facts and suggestions and making a decision. When you said stick built , you're not talking about RV's ?
Dr. Don
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I'm reading this thread because I want to learn as much as possible before it's my turn to replace the epdm on my coach.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:11 AM   #17
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New TPO
[/URL][/IMG]
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:59 PM   #18
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Looks great. Good idea to change to plywood. I used leftover rubber to go over my hot tub cover. Keeps the sun off and folds with the cover.
Good luck
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:25 PM   #19
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SuperDAD Thanks for the pictures! The More the Better for all of us

Nice job by the way

Alan & terry
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:24 PM   #20
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Great thread, I will never need it with a fiberglass roof, but I can appreciate well planned and executed DIY jobs, and I recognize one here.

Chris
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Old 05-17-2014, 07:07 AM   #21
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Got most of the new TPO glued down today. This stuff doesn't stretch at all so it's kind of hard to work with. I used the contact cement that the roofing company recommended, if I had it to do over again I'd use something else. It sticks great but it's a pain in the butt because you have the apply the glue to both the roof and the TPO, and it dries to fast for me.

My roof has 4" radiuses on both sides and on the rear. I had to glue the TPO down on the flat part of the roof first, then go back later and glue down the sides (which I'm still in the process of doing).

I ended up buying all new 14" x 14" roof vents, Skylight, sewer cap, Drip rails for the sides and a JACK's TV antenna. Which I'll install today.

Bad news is that I dropped my cell phone off the roof and it cracked the camera lens, so I didn't get any pictures yesterday. I get a new phone Sunday and try to post some then.
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Old 05-17-2014, 08:42 AM   #22
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Glad it was the phone and not you
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:33 PM   #23
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Just rained so I haven't been able to get back on the roof and clean off all the glue I tracked all over it. But here's some pictures so fare. Really wish I could have found some new plastic rear corner molding for my RV. But Coachmen doesn't make them anymore. Might repaint them some time in the future.
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:37 PM   #24
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Instead of using the original style molding on the sides, I decided to put on some newer style molding that has a drip rail built into it. Also added rail spouts at the end of the drip rails. See picture:
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Old 05-17-2014, 02:37 PM   #25
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Also added 3 new MaxxAir vent covers.
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:06 PM   #26
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SuperDad,

I have read that TPO may contains several ingredients, including EPDM. Yet the roofing material for RV's is commonly referred to as EPDM. How equivalent are EPDM and TPO?

Also, SuperDad, you mentioned that you could not stretch the TPO. Again, I was under the impression that EPDM could be stretched. Is that incorrect?

Lastly, will the method you use to join the pieces of TPO together involve a solvent cement, or heat, or both? Or do you expect to complete the entire job with no seams?

BTW, my experience with EPDM roofs and leaks has been that leaks are the one Achilles's heel of the EPDM roofing system. It seals so well, and fits to its substrate so closely that very small leaks can go undetected. There is no cavity where the leaked water can collect and flow out quickly enough to be detected inside. Wicking spreads the water under the EPDM and it is absorbed by the plywood underneath. What you saw around your skylight is very common, and underscores how important it is to reseal everything which protrudes through your EPDM roof regularly, even when you can't SEE anywhere it is leaking.

Van W 2000 Dynasty 36
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Old 05-17-2014, 05:44 PM   #27
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SuperDad,

I have read that TPO may contains several ingredients, including EPDM. Yet the roofing material for RV's is commonly referred to as EPDM. How equivalent are EPDM and TPO?

Also, SuperDad, you mentioned that you could not stretch the TPO. Again, I was under the impression that EPDM could be stretched. Is that incorrect?

Lastly, will the method you use to join the pieces of TPO together involve a solvent cement, or heat, or both? Or do you expect to complete the entire job with no seams?

BTW, my experience with EPDM roofs and leaks has been that leaks are the one Achilles's heel of the EPDM roofing system. It seals so well, and fits to its substrate so closely that very small leaks can go undetected. There is no cavity where the leaked water can collect and flow out quickly enough to be detected inside. Wicking spreads the water under the EPDM and it is absorbed by the plywood underneath. What you saw around your skylight is very common, and underscores how important it is to reseal everything which protrudes through your EPDM roof regularly, even when you can't SEE anywhere it is leaking.

Van W 2000 Dynasty 36
Eastern NC
EPDM and TPO are both used on RV roofs. The EPDM is an older material, It's feels like a giant inter tube, very stretchy and rubberier, it's been used on RV and large commercial building for years. TPO is a newer product, it's not rubberier at all. It's more of a plastic based material, although it does have some EPDM in it. It's very different. Feels like a very thick plastic tarp to me. You can Google EPDM vs. TPO and get a lot more info on them both that way.

One of the reasons (but not the only) that I went with TPO is because you won't get any more streaks running down the sides of your RV when it rain.
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Old 05-17-2014, 11:26 PM   #28
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Started taking the roof off of our 5er yesterday. EPDM seems to be in good shape but the underlying particle board is spongy. Will replace the particle board with plywood and while the roof is off upgrade to LED dimmable lighting.

Going slow and steady. Hope to have it done in about a month.
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