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Old 02-12-2013, 11:16 AM   #1
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Stayed in the new to us Discovery last night for the first time, couple questions

DW and I decided to test out the new to us Discovery and work out some kinks so we are camping at a local RV park for the next few nights. This has lead to multiple trips to Wal-Mart, Home Depot and RV supply stores. I do have a couple questions:

1) Freedom 458 Inverter makes a very load humming noise and the compartment is in the rear with the bedroom. Is this normal? It's bad enough that I had to go out at night and turn it off the charging setting. Is this a sign that it's going out? Do they all hum? This is something I need to figure out and if I need to replace the inverter then so be it.

2) Left rear heater on a setting of 65* and in the middle of the night I get this loud screeching noise and it turned out to be the blower motor. I ran this blower motor many hours while working on the RV at home and never heard it. Does it need to be lubed or should I just replace it?

3) Water taste like crap and we are using an inline water filter, could water have been left in the holding tank? When hooked up to city water does it pull from the holding tank? Do you run the water pump when on city water?

4) I bought a Valterra water regulator and it is set at 40psi, what's the max pressure you can go up to?

5) My wife bought us a Progressive surge protector but she bought a 50amp one and we are a 30amp coach.... And I already threw out the box.... Am I SOL or can I plug the 50amp surge protector into the 50amp outlet and get a 30amp to 50amp adapter to plug the coach into?
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:35 AM   #2
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Just a few, and happy new RV;

Water regulators are typically set for 40 psi, but the inline ones are plus or minus 10 percent, and even more. Actually they are "restrictive devices." It is far better to get a Watts regulator from Lowes or Home Depot and the hardware to convert it to 3/4 inch if it does not already accept that. The Watts can be regulated for whatever pressure you want, but you will never get more pressure than what is coming out of the faucet. I have been in CG's where they warn you that the water pressure is high and regulators are needed, and also in some where the water pressure was extremely low. The shower head we replaced with an Oxygenics and it is much more forceful of a spray than the normal shower heads.

You need to sanitize the fresh water tank with chlorine bleach. My tank is about 90 gallons and I use 1-1/2 cups bleach. Take the water filter out of the line - so it is not ruined by the bleach and also it will remove the chlorine. Two methods, one is if you want to disinfect the hose also. You pore the bleach into the hose spout end, then connect it to the water source, however I do not use that method. Second one, that I use, is to remove the water filter, take the filter out, pour the bleach into the filter holder and put the holder back on the system, then fill the fresh water tank. Rjune all the faucets until you smell the odor of bleach. Let the water sit for 4 hours, or more, then flush a couple times. Even after a few times of flushing there may still be a slight chlorine/bleach taste but it goes away. After the last flushing, including running the water, drain completely, put the filter back in and fill the tank.

Call progressive and explain what you did. They may just change it out, but I'm thinking you can use it with a 50/30 adapter. I have the PT50C and I use it on 30 amp circuits with not problem, You should be able to plug it into 50A and use the adapter for your 30A cord. A call to them would get the best answer. If it is able to convert I'd keep it for that day you upgraded to a 50 amp system.

I have no experience with the 1st and 2nd question.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wayne M View Post
Just a few, and happy new RV;

Water regulators are typically set for 40 psi, but the inline ones are plus or minus 10 percent, and even more. Actually they are "restrictive devices." It is far better to get a Watts regulator from Lowes or Home Depot and the hardware to convert it to 3/4 inch if it does not already accept that. The Watts can be regulated for whatever pressure you want, but you will never get more pressure than what is coming out of the faucet. I have been in CG's where they warn you that the water pressure is high and regulators are needed, and also in some where the water pressure was extremely low. The shower head we replaced with an Oxygenics and it is much more forceful of a spray than the normal shower heads.

You need to sanitize the fresh water tank with chlorine bleach. My tank is about 90 gallons and I use 1-1/2 cups bleach. Take the water filter out of the line - so it is not ruined by the bleach and also it will remove the chlorine. Two methods, one is if you want to disinfect the hose also. You pore the bleach into the hose spout end, then connect it to the water source, however I do not use that method. Second one, that I use, is to remove the water filter, take the filter out, pour the bleach into the filter holder and put the holder back on the system, then fill the fresh water tank. Rjune all the faucets until you smell the odor of bleach. Let the water sit for 4 hours, or more, then flush a couple times. Even after a few times of flushing there may still be a slight chlorine/bleach taste but it goes away. After the last flushing, including running the water, drain completely, put the filter back in and fill the tank.

Call progressive and explain what you did. They may just change it out, but I'm thinking you can use it with a 50/30 adapter. I have the PT50C and I use it on 30 amp circuits with not problem, You should be able to plug it into 50A and use the adapter for your 30A cord. A call to them would get the best answer. If it is able to convert I'd keep it for that day you upgraded to a 50 amp system.

I have no experience with the 1st and 2nd question.
I believe the one I bought is an adjustable one like the Watts:


I stopped using the cheapo ones after having nothing but issues with them.

Thanks for the info about the water tanks and flushing them. Is it considered bad form to do this while at a camp ground? Since I'll be dumping literally hundreds of gallons of water I don't want to upset others.

I didn't think about calling progressive, I just asked the RV store my wife bought it from. They said they were going to see and get back to me but I haven't heard back yet.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:51 AM   #4
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As for the inverter/charger, are you sure it wasn't the cooling fan running. If so your batteries may be sick and working the charger hard enough to heat it. An assumption here is that you are hooked to shoreline power and not actually using the converter/inverter in the inverter mode. In the night it should have been cool enough to keep the fan from running if not heavily loaded.

Here is a manual.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Freedom458(445-0193-01-01_rev-2).pdf (594.0 KB, 44 views)
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:58 AM   #5
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I'm not familiar with that brand of Inverter, but some of them are noisy.

You should sanitize your fresh water tank but many campgrounds have funky tasting water. We usually carry a good supply of bottled water for drinking and coffee making.

You do not need to run the water pump when you are connected to city water.

You probably need to buy a 30-to-50 AMP adapter because you will use it many times in your travels.

I don't know anything about blower motors, but I say if it can be lubricated...try it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:06 PM   #6
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As for the inverter/charger, are you sure it wasn't the cooling fan running. If so your batteries may be sick and working the charger hard enough to heat it. An assumption here is that you are hooked to shoreline power and not actually using the converter/inverter in the inverter mode. In the night it should have been cool enough to keep the fan from running if not heavily loaded.

Here is a manual.
The batteries are brand new and the noise starts pretty much right away once you turn it on. I do not think I was inverting I think it was the charging function. According to the front panel the inverter light wasn't on just the charging light.

Since I am hooked to shoreline power can I just turn it off and leave it off? I wasn't sure if that was bad for the batteries or would drain the batteries.

If it is the fan kicking on should it be that loud? Should it kick on as soon as the inverter/charging starts?
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:08 PM   #7
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I'm not familiar with that brand of Inverter, but some of them are noisy.

You should sanitize your fresh water tank but many campgrounds have funky tasting water. We usually carry a good supply of bottled water for drinking and coffee making.

You do not need to run the water pump when you are connected to city water.

You probably need to buy a 30-to-50 AMP adapter because you will use it many times in your travels.

I don't know anything about blower motors, but I say if it can be lubricated...try it.

So I can safely plug a 30amp cord into a 50amp outlet with an adapter and not overload the system? I knew you could go down but I was positive that you can go up.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:17 PM   #8
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Our conveter hums, but it is old school, should post in coach specific forum to find like owners to compare
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:43 PM   #9
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The fan running and the humming noise from the charger is normal to an extent. I have never had one in the bedroom area but could hear the one in the kitchen area of my last motor home. I had to replace it and the new one also hummed but it was a different hum. usually low pitch. There are some lights that are 12 volt in most rvs. the shore power goes thru the converter and allows you to use these lights. Also the hot water tank, refrig , heater all use 12 volts. I would not turn the inverter/converter/charger off. The batteries need to have a cycled trickle charge. It also need to have a decent amount of free air space around it to assist in keeping it cool. If yours is under the bed make sure that there is free space around it.

Not sure why your heater fan would squeal. I would gain access and turn it on to see if there is any metal ducting scraping the fan. Lube may be the answer.

I think your other questions were answered with great advise.

Happy camping and don't let the little things get to you.
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:50 PM   #10
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The fan running and the humming noise from the charger is normal to an extent. I have never had one in the bedroom area but could hear the one in the kitchen area of my last motor home. I had to replace it and the new one also hummed but it was a different hum. usually low pitch. There are some lights that are 12 volt in most rvs. the shore power goes thru the converter and allows you to use these lights. Also the hot water tank, refrig , heater all use 12 volts. I would not turn the inverter/converter/charger off. The batteries need to have a cycled trickle charge. It also need to have a decent amount of free air space around it to assist in keeping it cool. If yours is under the bed make sure that there is free space around it.

Not sure why your heater fan would squeal. I would gain access and turn it on to see if there is any metal ducting scraping the fan. Lube may be the answer.

I think your other questions were answered with great advise.

Happy camping and don't let the little things get to you.
The inverter is in the storage bays on the side but near the rear of the coach, the noise is a high pitch hum which is very disturbing. I'm not a light sleeper but it annoyed me.

I have searched online and have read other threads from people that are having the same issue. I would really like to know if it's normal or if mine is louder for some reason, I have never heard this loud of a hum before in a coach.

Fixing the little things is what makes it fun, I am someone who loved to tinker
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:23 PM   #11
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The furnace fan most likely has a bad bearing. You might spray some WD 40 on it for a while, but we wound replacing ours to stop it.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:38 PM   #12
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If you can into the 30 amp surge protector without an outlay of cash, do it. Some CG charge extra for 50 amp service. The one we are in now is $28/mth higher for 50 amp.
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Old 02-12-2013, 05:54 PM   #13
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So I can safely plug a 30amp cord into a 50amp outlet with an adapter and not overload the system? I knew you could go down but I was positive that you can go up.
Yes, you can safely plug your 30A coach into a 50A source - the coach will only draw the power it needs to run everything, and if it tries to draw more than 30A the main breaker in the coach will trip. It's no different than plugging in a 2A phone charger into a 15A outlet in your home - the outlet does not "push" the power into the load - the load "pulls" what it needs out of the source.
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Old 02-12-2013, 06:01 PM   #14
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If the noise from the charger is not a fan it is the transformers singing. Some folks have better hearing than others and being right outside your sleeping area you may need to add some insulation to the compartment. Of course you need ventilation but the sound could be coming through some thin area above and behind the compartment. I know this may seem strange but call the mfgr tech folks and let them listen over the phone. One picture being worth a thousand words so is one ear full. As an ET listening is a good tool. If it is the fan running all the time the thermistior that runs it may have failed and needs to be replaced and the fan bearing may be tired.
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