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Old 05-24-2014, 12:21 PM   #15
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I've adjusted mine up and down just to try and improve the ride and it didn't seem to handle any different to me.I bought it second hand and don't know if it has any mods or not but it handles real good to me. It has Bridgestone tires on it if that makes any difference.
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Old 05-24-2014, 02:07 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vsheetz View Post
If it was driving straight before the new tires and alignment, I would be very suspect of the alignment or one of the new steer tires. Tire pressure 5-10 or so pounds one way or the other should not make a huge difference.
I agree!

Considering that caster can only be adjusted by installing wedges between the front axle and the mounts, it's highly doubtful that this work was done.

Considering that camber can only be adjusted by bending the front axle, it's highly doubtful that this work was done.

Considering that toe in adjustment is a quick easy procedure, it's probable that this work may have been done, and possibly improperly. I would have the toe in checked, and have it set for maximum allowable toe in.

I would also weigh the rig, and adjust tire pressures accordingly.

If none of that works, then try different steer tires.

Jim
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Old 05-25-2014, 03:40 PM   #17
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For what it's worth, after I had six new tires installed it took about 300 miles for them to "break in" and settle down. I adjusted the tire pressures according to my rig's weight after I left the tire shop because as someone already pointed out they were aired-up according to the sidewall by the install folks.

X2 give them a few "heat cycles" and a chance to wear in a little.
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Old 05-25-2014, 04:31 PM   #18
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I agree!
Considering that caster can only be adjusted by installing wedges between the front axle and the mounts, it's highly doubtful that this work was done.
Considering that camber can only be adjusted by bending the front axle, it's highly doubtful that this work was done.
Considering that toe in adjustment is a quick easy procedure, it's probable that this work may have been done, and possibly improperly. I would have the toe in checked, and have it set for maximum allowable toe in.
Jim
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Considering that it's apparently common? for an alignment shop to "not adjust the caster", "not adjust the camber" and "adjust the toe in improperly", what on earth do they do for the $100+ they charge?
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Old 05-26-2014, 02:59 AM   #19
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Jim
Considering that it's apparently common? for an alignment shop to "not adjust the caster", "not adjust the camber" and "adjust the toe in improperly", what on earth do they do for the $100+ they charge?
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I've often wondered that myself. I think if it's a situation where the vehicle is in for new tires, and while it's in the shop, check the alignment, then that's what happens. Check the camber, check the caster, check the toe in and make a quick adjustment of that. Sometimes the toe in adjustment is not done properly. I had exactly this situation happen once, and I found that the toe in adjustment was done incorrectly!

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Old 05-26-2014, 08:22 AM   #20
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did you check steering hydrolic level? if its low it will behave like that... dont ask how i know.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:19 AM   #21
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I wouldn't blame the alignment at this point. I would look at the tires. If you have a belt in the tire that has shifted due to improper manufacturing the vehicle can wander side to side. My suggestions would be to have there tires road force balanced to see if there is a problem and then possibly rotate or replace the steer tires. It sounds like a tire problem. Also make sure that the toyo's you purchased are the correct size and load range for your vehicle. If you have there alignment report publish the specs here and I can maybe tell you if the alignment is a problem.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:20 AM   #22
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Sounds pretty wild and bending the axle to proper specs, should be a real trick in itself.
Thanks for the info....
The previously posted answer about adding wedges is correct, and is "approved" by WCC. However, "bending" the axle is not......

I'll just add one more suggestion about wandering-try looking just a bit farther ahead and try to make fewer "micro" adjustments, which can be caused by looking down at the driving lane too closely. Ed
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:45 AM   #23
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I've often wondered that myself. I think if it's a situation where the vehicle is in for new tires, and while it's in the shop, check the alignment, then that's what happens. Check the camber, check the caster, check the toe in and make a quick adjustment of that. Sometimes the toe in adjustment is not done properly. I had exactly this situation happen once, and I found that the toe in adjustment was done incorrectly!
Jim
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I hear ya!
Unfortunately that's the SOP, (standard operating procedure), aka: SOS, (same old stuff), found at most RV "service" facilities.
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Old 05-26-2014, 09:46 AM   #24
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Ford twin I beam axle are adjusted by installing chains around it and the alignment rack and then cold bent with a strong bottle jack. Larger trucks need much heavier tools but can still bend the axles to adjust camber although some axle manufacturers do not recommend bending.
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Old 07-04-2015, 02:38 PM   #25
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I still have hard tires and after 6 thousand miles, it still steers like driving on ice. I keep em hard to decrease the footprint on the road and I also look for highways that go mostly downhill.
I've tried resting my elbows on the armrests to reduce the swing and make mini corrections. I must check the steering fluid. Anyone know where the res is?
Thx, rB
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:06 PM   #26
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Steering like a madman

Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblinboy View Post
I still have hard tires and after 6 thousand miles, it still steers like driving on ice. I keep em hard to decrease the footprint on the road and I also look for highways that go mostly downhill.
I've tried resting my elbows on the armrests to reduce the swing and make mini corrections. I must check the steering fluid. Anyone know where the res is?
Thx, rB

1. If your steering box is adjustable, have it checked to see if it can be tightened.
2. Lots of that steering input is to correct for the effects of that long rear overhang. I don't know what's available for the Workhorse but I'm guessing Roadmaster has a rear track bar or equal. If you can tame that rear sway then your life will be easier.
3. At your next alignment, ask them to set both the toe in and the caster at the max allowed.



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Old 07-04-2015, 03:40 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by ramblinboy View Post
I still have hard tires and after 6 thousand miles, it still steers like driving on ice. I keep em hard to decrease the footprint on the road and I also look for highways that go mostly downhill.
I've tried resting my elbows on the armrests to reduce the swing and make mini corrections. I must check the steering fluid. Anyone know where the res is?
Thx, rB
Are you not airing up according to the inflation chart and then maybe no more than 15psi over, for taking care of the variables?
If an 8.1 is like a 7.4 engine, then look for the steering/brake booster on the driver's side, under the hood.
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Old 07-04-2015, 03:43 PM   #28
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We have a 35ft Bounder and it was a constant steering issue. We finally had installed a"SAFTPLUS" shock. It has made a massive difference in handling. So glad we did it.
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