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Old 08-12-2013, 12:48 PM   #15
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Thanks to all for the responses. Using Don's suggestions for a few specific comments.

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Originally Posted by Diplomat Don View Post
I don't see how you didn't stay cool with four A/C units running. What temps are you expecting to achieve?

We were looking for temps in the low 80s but were getting low 90s.

If you have A/C units that have the center dump on the intake duct, you may want to open those up for more cold air.

I read other AC posts suggesting that. Don't think that's an option on this unit unless I am missing something.

We also turn on our fantastic fan to vent the hot air near the roof as we drive.

That tactic surprised me. I was looking to maximize keeping cool air contained (e.g., max air setting on a car).

All of the night shades are closed also to keep it like a cave.

Good thought. We did keep the shades closed on the sunny side.

If you're dash A/C is working properly (yet to be determined from what you said) and the roof A/C behind the cab is running, you should be able to achieve 80 degrees or less on a 100 degree day.

Will find out how the dash AC is working at the service center next week.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:06 PM   #16
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Not sure if you have these already in your coach,
but have you considered replacing your floor registers (heating vents) with some that can be closed off as in the house ???

Did that with ours and it seemed to be the final adjustment to
compliment opening the main grill so it initially dumps the cold air into the rv instead of cooling off the duct work running just under the sun baked roof

then as we (and the rv) cool off, we switch to back to ducted...
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnBoyToo View Post
Not sure if you have these already in your coach,
but have you considered replacing your floor registers (heating vents) with some that can be closed off as in the house ???

Did that with ours and it seemed to be the final adjustment to
compliment opening the main grill so it initially dumps the cold air into the rv instead of cooling off the duct work running just under the sun baked roof

then as we (and the rv) cool off, we switch to back to ducted...

Very good idea. Will add that to the list of tweaks.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:41 PM   #18
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Have you checked the temperature of the air coming from the A/C vents? Wife likes it cool--we have no problem keeping the coach at 72 degrees with 110 degrees outside in Las Vegas last month.
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Old 08-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #19
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X2 on checking the A/C outlet temps.

I had an issue where the AC would get warmer and warmer even after replacing water valve. Eventually I installed a ball valve in the line and that fixed it - ac is now a good 30-35F below ambient.

If the coach is cooling down OK when stationary but not cooling then traveling then you need to find where the air is leaking in.
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:46 PM   #20
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One outher thing is to use the max seting on your dash air so it is recirculating the air from inside. This way you are starting with cooler air not trying to cool 100 degree air from the outside.
I would double check your thermostat setings. My 2 ac's are controlled from one thermostat and some times the kids get the modes and zones mixed up. I stay nice and cool driving in 100 plus temps in Texas.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:09 PM   #21
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We also have a 42' coach. We drove today in 96-98 degree temps and only used the OTR air (driven by main motor). We never use the roof airs when we travel. Our OTR air conditioning has vents in our dash and in the rear bedroom.

Fleetwood Providences are very nice coaches. I would think you should be able to keep the house cool with only OTR air.
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