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07-03-2016, 04:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: SW Louisiana
Posts: 8,957
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Storage shed roof clearance?
I am in the market for a used Class A motorhome, and have narrowed my choices down to a handful of potential models, I intend to store this motorhome in one of two metal buildings on the family farm, the preferred building has a roll up door with just under 12' clearance (call it 11'11"+), The second larger shed has a clearance of 12'6" at the doorway (previously had side sliding doors, but is now open on that side) Both building have concrete floors, however the approach to the one with the lower clearance and roll up door is not paved, just gravel with probably 3-4 inches of rise withing 25 feet of the door).
The models that I am considering have a published height to top of highest point (air conditioner ranging from 11'1 to 11'9")
My question is how much clearance do I really need for a Class A inching into a storage shed? I have seen many other threads on the topic of bridge clearance, but can't find any on the storage shed issue.
I know 11'9" going into a sub 12' shed is very close, but is it too close? Would adding a poured concrete approach be a good idea here?
thanks for your thoughts
Ike
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07-03-2016, 04:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 15,749
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Best of course is to raise the openings if possible. But realize that my not be physically doable or cost prohibitive.
I had a trailer that missed fitting through a doorway by a couple inches. Dropped the tire pressures to get it through, then aired back up once inside/outside. YMMV.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
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07-03-2016, 04:18 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,607
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Before I invested the amount of money you're looking at, I'd actually get out there and MEASURE the rig you're considering. I've had 3 Class A's and have actually measured all of them. None were exactly what the manufacturer claimed and in 2 of the 3 the LADDER was the highest point, not the air conditioners. My reason for measuring was because I put a 1 meter satellite internet dish up on top and I needed to know what my actual height was and what equipment was the controlling item.
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07-03-2016, 04:19 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 14,891
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It is only too close if you hit. 1/4 inch miss is as good as a 12".
More is better. We have a 14' door and store a 13'6" stacker. I go slow so there is no bounce.
__________________
Gordon and Janet
Tour 42QD/InTech Stacker
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07-03-2016, 04:32 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Wilmington, MA
Posts: 679
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I agree that an actual read is more valuable than what the mfg says. Remember, fully loaded may also be a bit different than empty, so you may need to go into the shed with full tanks, or possibly low air in the suspension. All of these items need to be considered.
Also, you mentioned a rise on the way into one shed. If the wheels are still on that rise, as you are entering the shed, and your high point is near an end, that may be very significant.
I'll give an example, in that if your ladder is indeed the high point, and you are backing in, but the front wheels are 3 inches lower than the rear wheels (as you are backing in) and you have the same 10 to 12 feet of overhang beyond the rear wheels that I have, your ladder may be several inches higher because of that incline.
Of course, if the slope is the other direction, it may work to your advantage.
One last consideration, you may find that removing the approach gravel and replacing with a slightly lower paved approach is a good idea. When considering this, you may also consider that dropping the floor at the door of the shed may be easier than raising the door. Much depends on the age and thickness of the concrete floor.
good luck. Keep us posted.
__________________
Karl I. Sagal KarlSagal@Gmail.com
Well done is better than well said. (Ben Franklin)
1988 Fleetwood Southwind, 34'
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07-03-2016, 04:37 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Currently; SW Cali. Sunny & warm!
Posts: 1,323
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tail of the tape
I'd recommend some actual measurements as the "published height" may not be 100% accurate there are variables that could work for you or against. This especially true being previously owned coaches.
The scenario you mention with grade angles could be somewhat tricky to guesstimate. The wheel base plus extended portions past the axles could effect this. You didn't mention the coach length.
In the end it all boils down to a go, no-go situation. An inch might as well be a mile.
You'll no doubt have someone on a ladder spotting you the first time.
Happy motoring.
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J & J, DRV Suites ES-38RSSA #9679 GM Denali, 3500HD-Max, 4x CC, 8' DRW,
EZGo-TXT, Clubcar Precedent
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07-03-2016, 05:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Vintage RV Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Cedar Park, Tx.
Posts: 449
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I've got 4 inches clearance which is plenty....FYI did you know the standard at least in TX is to allow 3 inches above signed height on bridges (obviously many have more but don't have to change the sign until less than 3 inches). If 3 is good enough on the highway it's good enough for me..
__________________
1995 BlueBird BMC 37
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited
1984 BlueBird Wanderlodge FC35RB-Sold
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