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Old 12-15-2014, 08:03 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by jimbo2013 View Post
Did complete cleanup in June, so all cables still looks great.

those chassis batts are sealed, hate them.

Could be one did not get as tight as you might expect. They can loosen in any case. As suggested, clean, bright, tight.

You should put a voltmeter across each bank of batteries with the engine off and with it running. This would be very helpful information.

Just throwing parts and disconnecting and testing things may never tell you what is really wrong.

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Old 12-16-2014, 07:09 PM   #16
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If you have no other symptoms other then the guage fluctuating maybe its a faulty guage.

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Old 12-17-2014, 06:33 AM   #17
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If you have a volt meter. With RV not plugged into shore power and engine off check voltage at alternator positive terminal (large red wire) you should read battery voltage. Turn key on and at ignition terminal and Duvac terminal on the alternator you need to have battery voltage. If you do start the motor and at the positive terminal of the alternator you should have 14.1 volts. If you don't the alternator has failed.

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Old 12-17-2014, 06:43 AM   #18
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I'd start by walking around the unit right after a drive and feeling the connections and belt tension. Low belt tension or warmer than average electrical connection and you have the problem area.
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Old 12-17-2014, 07:37 AM   #19
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Clean the ground connections too. There should be one on the engine and one on the chassis frame.
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Old 12-17-2014, 01:40 PM   #20
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jimbo2013 Were you ever able to determine what the problem was?
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Old 12-17-2014, 02:20 PM   #21
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I ordered a belt and made an appointment for Friday to have the batteries load tested, and the belt put on anyway.
HR Endeavor 38CDS - 330 Cat - Aero Muffler
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:18 AM   #22
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Did you have any symptoms apart from the voltmeter and battery(alternator?) light?

Did the light come on when the voltmeter started to drop, or when it got down to 9v?

What happened just before the voltmeter started to rise, eg hit a bump, stopped or slowed down for intersection or traffic lights?

Possibly an alternator on the way out.
Would not expect a loose belt to start driving alternator again.
Not sure batteries would cause this either.
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Old 12-18-2014, 02:40 AM   #23
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Check the spring loaded belt tensioner. It could be sticking and allowing the belt to come slack at times. You should be able to pry it back and it should return smoothly.
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Old 12-18-2014, 08:55 PM   #24
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If all the good suggestions made so far do not offer a solution, I would pull the alternator and have it tested. A good time to do this would be when the belt is being changed.

If the alternator is good, then I would open up the dash and check all connections, particularly the ground connections from the gauges to the ground buss on the firewall.

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Old 12-19-2014, 08:43 AM   #25
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did load test both batts good, alt putting out 14.1 steady at alt and batts, changed belt.

old belt looked good but was stretched longer than new.

That's it, so nothing 100% definitive????

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