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Old 05-09-2015, 08:12 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
But, my question is, and I think it goes along with the OPs question, you can get one for a 50A system that hovers around $120 (the one that most of you have bragged about) or, you can pay up to as much as $350 or more. If you have protection, enough 50A system, in a $120 unit, then why pay for a $350 unit?
Scott
I guess I should have elaborated in my previous post. We have the Progressive EMS-PT50C which is currently listed at $431 on Progressive's website. I figured that if I was going to spend the $$ for power protection then I would get the one mostly highly recommended. Most people are recommending a Progressive unit so not sure of the $120 price unit that you are referring to.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:39 AM   #44
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I had a Progressive EMS HW50c installed & I researched & fabricated one of these. Gives me best of both worlds. Too much sensitive & expensive electronics on my motorcoach to take a chance.

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Old 05-09-2015, 01:07 PM   #45
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Ok any stories out there of someones RV getting messed up because they didnt use one?
Several And it happens several ways.

To me.. A near miss (lightening) took out the power line and the return surge when it came back on took out an air conditioner.. Thankfully this was in my Trailer days and I used Window A/Cs

However it can happen to the kilobuck (installed) roof top units as well

Low voltage (Brown out) Very common in RV parks can also damage the Rooftop A/C

Many many many have plugged a 30 amp RV into a 240 volt outlet (or a 50 amp rig using an adapter). The resulting 240 volt hit took out TV, Microwave, Converter, A/Cs damaged Fridge and Water heater depending on the RVer.

NOTE: People often have a 30 amp outlet installed at home..I did (But I did the install and though it was a 30 amp outlet it was a 20 amp line)

I advise folks doing this to put in a 50.. WHY.. Well a good number of those who plugged into the wrong voltage.. Had an electrician install it and the professional..... Did it wrong.
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Old 05-09-2015, 05:02 PM   #46
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I'm getting a little confused by some of the posts. Some seem to be talking about and using a simple device to check the source wiring before plugging in. I'm apparently going to be the first to say those may be somewhat of a gizzo. The same job can be done with a DMM.

Now, the much more expensive surge protectors and voltage monitors are a different story. My question about them is simply, portable or permanent. Which is preferred and why?
I chose the permanent unit because I am basically lazy and it is one less thing to think about when hooking up as it is always hooked up. Also, the portable ones can be easily stolen. Mark
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Old 05-09-2015, 05:17 PM   #47
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Surge Protectors, are they gimmicks

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I chose the permanent unit because I am basically lazy and it is one less thing to think about when hooking up as it is always hooked up. Also, the portable ones can be easily stolen. Mark

Stolen? Never heard of it. Perhaps my choice of CGs?
Not a valid reason IMHO.
I think my Weber and Coleman would be the easy quick grab. Never happened!
There are pros and cons on both sides. And it just doesn't matter!
Some have inside, others outside. I think having either is a victory against power issues.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:21 PM   #48
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My uncle who was a retired elevator mechanic with a lot of electrical experience came to visit my parents in his brand new BigHorn 5'ver. He decided to wire in to a 50 amp panel at our ranch and made the fatal mistake some do when wiring a 50 amp plug.
Fried almost everything in his new trailer - TV, microwave, coffee pot, converter, etc. Almost everything except the A/C's.
Needless to say, if he'd had a PI surge protector, it would have saved him a lot of money, work and embarrassment. He was sick over it for weeks.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:52 PM   #49
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There probably is no overwhelming reason to choose portable over permanent or vice versa. I got permanent for the combination of hard to steal, don't forget to take it or use it, remote monitor, one less thing to store. No matter how you value the aspects of portable vs. permanent it should be one of the highest priority items you have.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:17 AM   #50
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I guess I should have elaborated in my previous post. We have the Progressive EMS-PT50C which is currently listed at $431 on Progressive's website. I figured that if I was going to spend the $$ for power protection then I would get the one mostly highly recommended. Most people are recommending a Progressive unit so not sure of the $120 price unit that you are referring to.
This is the one I was referring to:

Progressive Industries SSP 50 50 Amp Portable RV Surge Protector | eBay
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Old 05-10-2015, 04:31 AM   #51
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Surge Protectors, are they gimmicks

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Originally Posted by FIRE UP View Post
It will not detect over/under voltage which are as damaging as surges.
Differences below

"SSP-50:
The Smart Surge 240V/50A provides 5-mode, 1,650 joules and 45,000 amp surge current rating. The built in surge status indicator notes the condition of the surge protector.

Additionally, the dual line circuit tester checks for: Reverse Polarity, Open Neutral and Open Group prior to use."

EMS-PT50C & PT30C |

High/Low Voltage Protection:
Whenever A/C power falls below 104 volts, or rises above 132 volts, the EMS automatically shuts down power to the RV. The EMS will monitor the power and once the AC power rises above 104 volts, or below the 132 volt level, the time delay indicator flashes for the present time and then automatically restores power to the RV.

Time Delay for A/C Compressor:
If the AC power is interrupted, or the EMS detects a fault condition, the built-in time delay is activated. There are two settings on the EMS: one is a 136-seconds (02:16) time delay and the other is 15 seconds. Consult your air conditioner manual to see if it has a time delay built in. If so, use the 15 second delay, if not; use the 136-second delay. The factory setting is 15 seconds.

5-Mode Surge Protection (PT50C model):
This feature provides full surge protection L-N, L-N, L-G, L-L and N-G or L1-N, L2-N, L-G, L-L and N-G. Total Joule rating is 3,580, 88,00A surge current.

See more here:
http://www.progressiveindustries.net...read-more/chva
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:09 AM   #52
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I had a Progressive EMS HW50c installed & I researched & fabricated one of these. Gives me best of both worlds. Too much sensitive & expensive electronics on my motorcoach to take a chance.

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Making sure I understand your setup: You HAVE a Progressive EMS HW50c AND the homemade pedestal checker. Right?

Why? What am I missing?
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:40 AM   #53
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Making sure I understand your setup: You HAVE a Progressive EMS HW50c AND the homemade pedestal checker. Right?

Why? What am I missing?
Makes sense to me. Campground assigns you a site, you drive up and plug the pedestal checker in first. If it checks out good, set up your site. If it checks out bad for any reason you explain what you found and ask to be assigned a different site. Including the time to get in and out of the vehicle this would only take one or two minutes. Since it would be something quick and simple to do it would also be easy to get in the habit of doing. I like the idea.
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:53 AM   #54
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We use a hard wired surge guard and it saved us when we hooked at a site that had a problem. Moved to another site.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:07 AM   #55
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Makes sense to me. Campground assigns you a site, you drive up and plug the pedestal checker in first. If it checks out good, set up your site. If it checks out bad for any reason you explain what you found and ask to be assigned a different site. Including the time to get in and out of the vehicle this would only take one or two minutes. Since it would be something quick and simple to do it would also be easy to get in the habit of doing. I like the idea.
That's how we do it! The tester is stored in the electric bay. We pull out the tester, check the power and if good we plug in the coach.

This is one of the things we felt would be easy and inexpensive insurance.

Adding the Progressive Ind. EMS PT50 C and the Voltage Controller to the electric bay was next. Mounted the portable model in the bay and the VC Model 50 in front of it. The power line was cut and 50 amp heads added to allow plug and play.
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Old 05-10-2015, 10:09 AM   #56
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Ours is the portable, simple unit. No digital readout, just LEDs that let you know what is you have coming in. The short version is if the top two red lights are on and the next two green are on, you are good to plug in. You just connect it without the coach plugged in first to see if it is OK. It still works as a surge guard after the initial check of course.
I use the same one as you Mark. It works fine!

I opted for the portable unit as I change/upgrade coaches every year or two. I keep the portable as part of my personal RV supplies. I let someone else have the added cost of protection once they purchase.
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