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Old 04-22-2011, 04:22 PM   #15
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The only way to know if Amsoil's oil meets the spec is for Allison or their approved lab to test the oil. I dont think that is out of line. Allison extends the warranty when you use an approved oil . How do they know that the oil will not fail unless it meets their standard? Amsoil is using semantics to fool their customers. They are saying it is equivalent. Personally I have never used their snake oil nor would I ever consider using their products. I call it Amway oil. MLM. If you are unhappy with what has been posted then please contact Allison and get it straight from the horse's mouth. There is a retired Allison lubricant engineer that wrote that spec. He is posting on rv.net in the Class A forum. Go over their and ask him your questions. He is very amiable. I am pleased that Allison is protecting their customers from oil disasters.
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Old 04-22-2011, 04:26 PM   #16
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Allison Transmission

This is the link to the approved oils.
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Old 04-22-2011, 06:26 PM   #17
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I use Transynd in my motorhome transmission because that is what Allison wants me to use. But I use Amsoil in my other vehicles and highly recommend it. I've been very happy with it.
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Old 04-22-2011, 07:19 PM   #18
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I used the Amsoil in my MH, generator and motorcycle for several years.
But a little over a year ago they raised the prices of their oil and with the yearly membership fee and shipping cost they priced their self out of my bank account.

Went back to Walmart priced Rotella for the MH. And no change in MPG.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:03 PM   #19
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The only time I've ever used amsoil was whgen I first put the Tremac TKO500 5 speed in my Camaro. Darned thing wouldn't shift for nuttin! Drained it out, and filled it with the manufacturer recommended GM syncromesh oil, and never looked back. thing shifts smooth as silk over 7000 rpm....

I do use mobile 1 in some of my high mileage vehicles. Most, even the camaro, get dino. If you're gonna change the oil once a year at 3000 miles, why spend 7 bucks a quart?
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:17 PM   #20
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Jim, I have had that same problem with several manual transmissons not shifting with both Amsoil and Model 1 Synthetic gear oil. The problem is that it is too slick. The syncronizers need a certain amount of drag to slow them down during the shift so they match up. It just is not going to happen if it is either too light of a viscosity or too slick. I use Redline MTL for manual transmissions in my Jeep transmission and have no problems.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:31 PM   #21
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an Amsoil user here

I have been using Amsoil for years. It and Mobil 1 are the only real synthetics. Others are still made from petroleum oil.
I change our car and truck oil once a year, (about 10,000 miles each), using Amsoil 0W30, and so it really is not more expensive that 3 regular oil changes for the same mileage. The Amsoil bottle label says it is good for 35,000 miles, but I wouldn't try that. Both our vehicles are 1999 models and they run like new. It is cheaper to keep them in good condition that to replace them, so that's why I use it.
If there is a hot spot in the engine, the synthetic oil runs to it, not away from it as regular oil does, and there is no sludge buildup and virtually no wear. I don't sell Amsoil, just am a satisfied user and a dealer sells it to me at the wholesale cost. (says he wants to get his volume up.)
Our class A is fairly new to us so it has Rotella oil for now, but I plan to use Amsoil later on.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:55 PM   #22
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I have been using Amsoil in my motorhome Allison 5 speed transmission. I have about 24000 miles on and at least half has been with Amsoil. I change the spin on filter each year and no problems and the trans temp runs normal. Good luck JP
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:04 PM   #23
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...... Is it posible that this oil can be that good. I have heard people say it is better to drive them and put on miles than to just let them sit. ...... but I really would like to make this a keeper, just 2 nice to get rid of. I keep waiting for it to fall apart.......Any answers or ideas on this oil... Thanks.
It probibly won't just fall apart. I'd say you also take cars of it. as far as sitting hyd brake do Not do well with age no matter the milage. If you haven't done so I'd have the brakes flushed for sure.
As afar as the oil yes it is very good oil. I run syn oil in all my vehicles but I do not buy that brand. I think it isn't worth the extra money to me. on My DD a 99 Wrangler i change the oil at about 12K and the filterfs every 3K. it has a 160K and it just keeps on a Jeepin.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:29 PM   #24
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I change the spin on filter each year and no problems and the trans temp runs normal.
I've changed my filter 3 times in 90,000 miles.
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Old 04-22-2011, 10:49 PM   #25
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Talk to any petroleum engineer ( not a mechanic) and you will quickly see that for engines that do not operate in the North synthetcis are a waste of $$. Today's dyno oils are almost a synthetic. Most synthetics are based on dyno oils.
Not really true. The bit about most synthetics being based on dino is partially true. Several years ago some of the big oil companies started labeling their dino-based oils as synthetic. There was a lawsuit filed by Mobil and the other guys sort of won. The court determined that taking petroleum base stocks and using catalysts to produce longer hydrocarbon chains created a synthetic oil. Since it's easier to catalyze petroleum oil than fight Mobil's PAO patents, most of the other guys produce catalyzed synthetics, which are also cheaper, so more market share. These oils do lubricate better than conventionally refined petroleum oils for a short time because the chains are longer. As the chains shear under load, they lose their properties, and overall, the viscosity behavior and temperature behavior are still more like dino oil than PAO.

PAOs are produced by reacting two gasses and while there is a small amount of petroleum in the mix, the resultant compound is much more stable than petroleum oil, the chains are longer, don't break down as fast, and have a much higher combustion temperature. the higher combustion temperature is important, because to clean the oil residue out of the engine, regular oil needs a lot of detergent, which burns at an even lower temperature, and produces ash, which is why regular oil turns black so fast and why you need a quart after 3000 miles - regular oil is 20% detergent.

Mobil-1 used to have a LOT of ZDDP, but that's another topic altogether.

I've used Mobil-1 in all my vehicles except the Caterpillar since the mid-80s - two 3/4T trucks for towing, a VW golf that consistently ran oil temps over 220, a Jetta, an Altima, two Supras, and a CRV, as well as two formula race cars. Usually changed at 5000mi, although I occasionally go 10,000. The proof is in how spotlessly clean the inside of the engines are and the lack of wear. That's all about the additive package and the ability of synthetics to cold flow much better than dino oils - so you get shorter dry starts. 90% of engine wear takes place before the oil pressure moves off the peg.

I run the Mobil-1 gear oil in all the street vehicles, and Redline synthetic gear oil in the race cars. One Supra just couldn't be shifted in the winter - could get out of first but not into 2nd at a reasonable RPM and not back into 1st until stopped. AMSOIL gear lube fixed that.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:20 PM   #26
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Not really true. The bit about most synthetics being based on dino is partially true. Several years ago some of the big oil companies started labeling their dino-based oils as synthetic. There was a lawsuit filed by Mobil and the other guys sort of won. The court determined that taking petroleum base stocks and using catalysts to produce longer hydrocarbon chains created a synthetic oil. Since it's easier to catalyze petroleum oil than fight Mobil's PAO patents, most of the other guys produce catalyzed synthetics, which are also cheaper, so more market share. These oils do lubricate better than conventionally refined petroleum oils for a short time because the chains are longer. As the chains shear under load, they lose their properties, and overall, the viscosity behavior and temperature behavior are still more like dino oil than PAO.
That would be Castrol that Mobil sued... The reason why I dont buy or use Castrol.. Well, that, and that there was another suit against them for engine failure...
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Old 04-23-2011, 03:31 PM   #27
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Thumbs down BP

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That would be Castrol that Mobil sued... The reason why I dont buy or use Castrol.. Well, that, and that there was another suit against them for engine failure...
..........and CASTROL is BP
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Old 04-23-2011, 05:33 PM   #28
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Today's Dno oils are very advanced. When Mobil One first came out the dino oils were not much different than in the 50's. Today they parallel the synthetics. How many of you actually know someone who had an engine failure due to a lubricant problem. Very rare. At one time we changed oil every 1500 miles or less. Today oil change intervals are very long. Partially due to the better oils and partially due to engine technologies. For example most of the MH diesels have intervals of at least 12,000 miles. I think the new Cummins are 15,000. Or 12 months. If you have a Cummins under warranty and run synthetic the same intervals apply. So what is the advantage of running Synthetics? Nothing!! You pay more for the oil. Drive 5000 miles or less a year. How long does the average Rv'r keep a MH or truck. I would guess no more than 7 years(on average). At 35,000 miles a big block Cummins is barely broken in. Therefore you are spending all this $$ for the next owner!! Anyone who extends his intervals due to oil tetsing is not following the recommendations of any current mfr. My 2 cents worth.
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