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Old 01-24-2014, 09:05 AM   #43
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I am also at my max front axle weight and curious how you folks that changed the tag axle bag pressure got it done. Once you determine how to adjust the tag pressure, is it a matter of trail and error to find the right pressure to take weight off the steer?
You either have to have adjustable proportioning valves for the drive & tag axles, or replace your fixed ratio proportioning valves with adjustable regulator valves. I did the latter and mounted the valves with gauges back at the rear engine opening. I have a setting for when I am pulling our Avalanche and different setting for when we are pulling our 9500# trailer that has a 1000# tongue weight. In all cases, I can keep the steering axle 800-1000# below the tire and axle rating and also below the drive axle rating. It took three 6 position weighs to get it right, but the State Highway Patrol came to our home and did the weighing at no charge.
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Old 01-24-2014, 09:32 AM   #44
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I also have an adjustable proportioning valve for the tags, but it's only one valve for both sides. I don't know how many ride height valves I have. Can I measure them or does the dealer need to do it?
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:16 PM   #45
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I also have an adjustable proportioning valve for the tags, but it's only one valve for both sides. I don't know how many ride height valves I have. Can I measure them or does the dealer need to do it?

I think the freightliner chassis has only three ride height valves while my Powerglide has four. You should check with freightliner for the specs for them and ask what their procedure is to adjust if necessary. After you have a good weight on all axles they would also know how to decrease the load on the tag which will lighten the steer. This works as long as you do not exceed the drive axle rating, because what ever you take off the tag will transfer to the drive along with 1/6 that amount from the steer.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:53 PM   #46
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You either have to have adjustable proportioning valves for the drive & tag axles, or replace your fixed ratio proportioning valves with adjustable regulator valves. I did the latter and mounted the valves with gauges back at the rear engine opening. I have a setting for when I am pulling our Avalanche and different setting for when we are pulling our 9500# trailer that has a 1000# tongue weight. In all cases, I can keep the steering axle 800-1000# below the tire and axle rating and also below the drive axle rating. It took three 6 position weighs to get it right, but the State Highway Patrol came to our home and did the weighing at no charge.
Did you install the adjustable proportioning valves yourself or have someone do it? What is involved in terms of labor and parts?

I'm wondering if one of the places in Oregon that specialize in servicing Country Coach Dynomax chassis can do it.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:09 PM   #47
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I have a 2000 american heritage with a steering tag. When I go in reverse the bags dump on the tag but I do not have a switch to do it. I really like the steering tag handles great and I get very little drag out my tag. One thing I learned the hard way is I put the transmission in N and was drifting back the tag steered hard right good thing I happened to catch it. Because you can do a lot of damage. I do think the steering tag is a very cool option but I will say it drives the same as my non steer tag in our previous coach.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:19 PM   #48
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Did you install the adjustable proportioning valves yourself or have someone do it? What is involved in terms of labor and parts?

I'm wondering if one of the places in Oregon that specialize in servicing Country Coach Dynomax chassis can do it.
My coach was under warranty and I discussed what I wanted to do with the plant manager. He agreed to provide the manual valves, new dump valves (different ones were needed) and the labor to install them. It was done at a local Kenworth shop. I then paid extra to have air lines run to the back where I wanted the manual regulators installed for easy access for adjustment. I also had wires run from the dump valves up to the front where I installed two led lights to light up when the tag is dumped. I'm very happy with the results. I can dial in whatever I need for different load requirements.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:07 PM   #49
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So...here is a technical question...

My current axle loading is 14,320 [edited] front, 16,360 drive & 6,640 tag. GAWRs are 14,600, 20,000 & 10,000 respectively.

My wheel base is 276" from front to drive and 48" from drive to tag. (5.75:1 ratio).

Now...I am no physics major so let me toss out what I think could be a reasonable WILD A$$ GUE$$ at how this would work.

If I were to reduce tag axle bag pressure enough to remove 1000# from the tag axle wouldn't it:

1. Remove about 175# (1000/5.75) from the front axle.

2. Add 1,175# to the drive axle? Keep in mind that you can't have weight simply disappear so what ever you remove off the tag and thus the front axles MUST go to the drive axle.

BTW...this seems to fall generally in line with what CRASHER was saying.

So, this does bring up a couple issues (WAGs) to be tossed into the fracas. Reducing the tag weight and thus the front axle weight will to some degree:

1. Reduce braking power in both the steerer & tag axles because of the reduced load. Proportionally it would have a majority affect on the tag and relatively small affect on the front axle wheels. The tag would be much more likely to lock up before any other set of wheels does.

2. Slightly reduce the highway stability due to the majority loss of weight on the tag.

3. Slightly reduce tag wheel scrubbing in tight turns.

PS...Yes I am anal retentive and tend to parse these kinds of issues out WAY TOO MUCH!
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:24 PM   #50
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So...here is a technical question... My current axle loading is 13,420 front, 16,360 drive & 6,640 tag. GAWRs are 14,600, 20,000 & 10,000 respectively. My wheel base is 276" from front to drive and 48" from drive to tag. (5.75:1 ratio). Now...I am no physics major so let me toss out what I think could be a reasonable WILD A$$ GUE$$ at how this would work. If I were to reduce tag axle bag pressure enough to remove 1000# from the tag axle wouldn't it remove about 175# (1000/5.75) from the front axle but add 1,175# to the drive axle? Keep in mind that you can't have weight simply disappear so what ever you remove off the tag and thus the front axles MUST go to the drive axle. BTW...this seems to fall generally in line with what CRASHER was saying. So, this does bring up a couple issues (WAGs) to be tossed into the fracas. Reducing the tag weight and thus the front axle weight will to some degree: 1. Reduce braking power in both the steerer & tag axles because of the reduced load. Proportionally it would have a majority affect on the tag and relatively small affect on the front axle wheels. The tag would be much more likely to lock up before any other set of wheels does. 2. Slightly reduce the highway stability due to the majority loss of weight on the tag. 3. Slightly reduce tag wheel scrubbing in tight turns. PS...Yes I am anal retentive and tend to parse these kinds of issues out WAY TOO MUCH!
I wouldn't argue with the veracity of your points but I'm not sure any of the results would actually be noticeable or important. You most likely have anti lock brakes so would not lock up a brake anyway.

What would the objective of this action be? You are actually pretty well balanced. If you are happy with your handling, I would stay put.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:50 PM   #51
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I wouldn't argue with the veracity of your points but I'm not sure any of the results would actually be noticeable or important. You most likely have anti lock brakes so would not lock up a brake anyway.

What would the objective of this action be? You are actually pretty well balanced. If you are happy with your handling, I would stay put.
OOPPSSS...typo...front axle 14,320# leaving only 280# I can add.

Not the worst thing to have but we just started FT in December and I would expect over a couple years the weight could creep up. I'm looking into my options if I need to keep Sandee happy with what we can carry. LOL

And yes...you are probably true to point on the ABS on the tag also. Good point!
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:29 PM   #52
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OOPPSSS...typo...front axle 14,320# leaving only 280# I can add. Not the worst thing to have but we just started FT in December and I would expect over a couple years the weight could creep up. I'm looking into my options if I need to keep Sandee happy with what we can carry. LOL And yes...you are probably true to point on the ABS on the tag also. Good point!
Ok, that makes sense. I might shoot for a tag weight of between 4500-5000 pounds. That will give you a little more headroom on the steer axle and you will still have a good reserve in back. I doubt seriously if you will notice any handling difference. If you have any hitch weight to speak of that will tend to unload the steer axle also.
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:02 AM   #53
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You are pretty close on the weight transfer. I found through several weigh checks that for every 1000# you take off the tag, 1/6 of that or 160# will come off the steer and all goes to the drive. I started out with 15200 on the steer, 14600 on the drive and 9500 on the tag. With the tag dumped, it dropped to 3500#, the drive went up to 21200# and the steer dropped to 14200#. I currently carry 5000# on the tag without the trailer. That puts the steer at 14,600 and the drive near 19,000#. When I have a 1000# tongue weight from a 9500# trailer, I bump the tag up to carry 7000# while the drive stays below 20,000# and the steer remains near 14,600#. My axle ratings are 15,600 steer, 22,000 drive, and 13,000 tag. With the above weights, the ride is superb and handling is excellent. The only time the tag "slides" is below 10mph if the tag is dumped for a turn and then only if I have to stop harder than normal. The ABS is inoperative below 10mph.
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Old 01-27-2014, 10:58 PM   #54
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So...I spoke with FCCC today. They are feeling like there's not much to be done about the side to side weights. They gave me the ride height measurements. I plan to check them in the next day or two.

When I suggested taking more weight off the tag, they were concerned about the 9400 rear wheel. They recommended NOT doing that. The other alternative was to increase the tire size on the front. If I go to 295's, the next limiting factor are the hubs which would increase the axle capacity to 14600. At 7300 lbs per side, it would bring that one wheel into spec.

They also suggested that my weights were 'close enough' and there were plenty of RVs more overweight than mine. I'll wait and see what the ride height measurement brings.
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:12 PM   #55
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So...I spoke with FCCC today. They are feeling like there's not much to be done about the side to side weights. They gave me the ride height measurements. I plan to check them in the next day or two.

When I suggested taking more weight off the tag, they were concerned about the 9400 rear wheel. They recommended NOT doing that. The other alternative was to increase the tire size on the front. If I go to 295's, the next limiting factor are the hubs which would increase the axle capacity to 14600. At 7300 lbs per side, it would bring that one wheel into spec.

They also suggested that my weights were 'close enough' and there were plenty of RVs more overweight than mine. I'll wait and see what the ride height measurement brings.
There is something wrong if they say that nothing can be done about a 2800# difference between the rear sides. Tiffin says that more than 1000# difference on the rear and more than 500# difference on the front is unacceptable. If that can be corrected with the suspension, it would correct the front as well. I wouldn't accept that " there a lot of coaches more over weight than yours" as an acceptable response. Something is not right.
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:08 AM   #56
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I wouldn't accept that " there a lot of coaches more over weight than yours" as an acceptable response. Something is not right.
Ya think?
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