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Old 11-07-2011, 11:14 AM   #1
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Taking a Shower

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement valve for the shower in my 2003 Adventurer? The present one is real touchy and you can freeze/scald yourself with just a hair of a push on the valve.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:16 PM   #2
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What brand fixture do you have? You can find most name brand parts at Home Depot, Lowes etc. If you know the manufacturer you can go online and do a search. If you have a regular MH fixture, CW and other vendors carry those. You might find out it is cheaper to replace the whole fixture than to buy a part as I did. Also, in our case I replaced our shower fixture in our 2004 with a residential one bought at Lowes. Much better made and no more scalding.
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Old 11-07-2011, 12:25 PM   #3
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On my ex '02 Brave, I replaced the original with a Delta that I purchased from Lowes. Everything fit right in place, reused the original piping and fittings.
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Old 11-07-2011, 02:51 PM   #4
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Hi navychaps,
Coach plumbing fixtures are industry standard sizes and connections. It may be easier to purchase a new fixture. It should fit without any problems.
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Old 11-07-2011, 06:51 PM   #5
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Safe fixture

Instead of the "tilt to adjust" you have, get one that rotates cold to hot. It will fit right in where the old one came out. No more freezing or scalding.
It may be hard to find the Gold one, but the chrome is readily available.
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Old 11-07-2011, 07:33 PM   #6
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Coincidently, I am "redoing" ours at this point in time for the very same reason. I feel your pain!!! Perhaps the following will help if you don't want to replace the whole assembly....

If you have the single control type that regulates both temperature AND water volume, you likely have a ball valve type faucet. There are several internal components of this system that can be replaced via a rebuild kit available from Home Depot. Basically, you probably need the kit that includes a new stainless ball valve, springs (2 small guys), seals, O rings, cam and cam washer (it sounds much more complicated than it is). In our case, all of this stuff mounts to and inside of what is usuallly called a "rough-in valve" that is located behind the shower wall (also extends through the shower wall) and into which the hot/cold/shower lines are attached. The actual faucet control that you move mounts to the end of the ball valve stem. Normally, the rough-in valve does not have to be removed in order to install the rebuild kit, but it is not difficult to remove if you have access to it.

Unfortunately, none of my parts are marked in any way to identify the manufacturer. But close examiniation of my parts indicates a seemingly perfect match to the parts in the HD rebuild kit. Since I have recently winterized the coach, however, I won't really be able to check it for proper operation and leaks until Spring. Till then, I will light a candle...and hope! But I think it should be OK since, as I said, the rebuild parts appear to match my originals.

HD has several rebuild kits for these things. If you don't want to go to the expense of replacing the whole thing, you might want to take your ball assembly out, leaving the other things attached to it, and take it to HD for comparison (be VERY careful of the 2 small seals and springs located inside the rough-in valve when you remove the ball). The kit I used is #86970 ($13.88+) and is made by Danco for Delta faucets....both Danco and Delta are major suppliers of these components. Since my parts were not marked (the rebuild kit parts aren't marked either), I gotta' believe that I have a "garden variety" Delta/Danco set up in our coach. You should be able to find a HD kit that will work for you. I am hoping, in our case, we just have a worn ball valve and/or seals/springs. Time will tell. If I still feel the pain, I will replace the whole assembly as some others have done.

Hope this helps. PLEASE let us know how you make out on this....Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:12 AM   #7
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I'm with Navychaps. I hate this faucet. Slightest move will turn the hot to scalding or ice water.

Now about the coach plumbing, is it standard pex or some off the wall special tubing used in the trailer industry?

Crimped pex connectors?

can I use sharkbites for the connectors?

As you can tell, I have not tackled the removal of the faucet......Y E T
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Because View Post
I'm with Navychaps. I hate this faucet. Slightest move will turn the hot to scalding or ice water.

Now about the coach plumbing, is it standard pex or some off the wall special tubing used in the trailer industry?

Crimped pex connectors?

can I use sharkbites for the connectors?

As you can tell, I have not tackled the removal of the faucet......Y E T
I don't know when they started using PEX in RVs (I think the travel trailers we had back in the 1970s and 1980s had something else), but every recent one I have ever seen uses PEX.

Yes, Shark Bite fittings work on PEX. They're a little expensive, but they are real easy to work with. They require no tool to install, so they're easy to install in tight places where you couldn't possibly fit a PEX crimping tool.
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Old 11-12-2011, 07:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Just Because View Post
I'm with Navychaps. I hate this faucet. Slightest move will turn the hot to scalding or ice water.

Now about the coach plumbing, is it standard pex or some off the wall special tubing used in the trailer industry?

Crimped pex connectors?

can I use sharkbites for the connectors?

As you can tell, I have not tackled the removal of the faucet......Y E T
You can usuall reuse the original fittings as they are all 1/2" NPT and it can sometimes ba a pain getting the PEX off the old fittings without cutting. If you have to change fittings the sharkbite will work great and if you have to cut the PEX you can use sharkbite coupling to extend the PEX. I know that on mine, Winnebago didn't leave any excess PEX to pull any spare pipe.
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Old 11-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #10
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I'm perplexed why HD sells gold colored showerheads and faucets but not shower valves.
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Old 11-12-2011, 10:52 PM   #11
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So can I replace the shower valve with a temperature control style all from within the shower, without accessing the rear side? I love mine at home.
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Old 11-13-2011, 12:35 AM   #12
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CJ....not totally sure if I understand your question correctly. But, it seems it would depend on what kind of rough in valve you have behind the shower wall of your coach. This "behind the wall" valve controls the delivery of hot/cold water flow for your shower and mates with the faucet and trim installed inside the shower. You must make sure that the valve installed in your coach is compatible with the type of faucet trim you want to install in your shower. In other words, the rough in valve must work with the type of "stuff" you are attaching to it. There are different types of faucets/trim AND different types of rough in valves. If you need to replace the rough in valve to match your faucet trim, you will need access to it....obviously. I understand that that can be difiicult in some situations due to poor coach design...sigh. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-13-2011, 07:54 AM   #13
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Ah, just the trim is accessable from within the shower. The rough-in for a thermostatic valve would require access from the rear to do the changeover, which after looking, would be near impossible. I have a mirror glued to the wall, with a pull out pantry between the mirror and the shower backside. Oh well.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:35 PM   #14
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CJ.....I dunno'. You might want to do a further search on the various forums here re access on your coach. I have read where some folks with larger Class A's have solved their access problems in some very creative ways. Maybe there will be some food for thought for you in those posts. Fortunately, I have direct access to our shower backside via an attractive panel in the bedroom. I have often been amazed at some of the poor design that goes into some of our RV's that makes repairs and changes next to impossible. Good luck, and please let us know if you "find a way". Thanks!
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