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Old 11-07-2012, 11:21 PM   #1
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The leak that won't go away...

I have a chronic leak on my 02 Adventurer that shows itself on the inner joint of the long window above the driver's door - drips in several places. I'm trying to narrow the suspect list down, and think it's the roof to roof cap joint. I've read that Eternabond tape is wonderful, but how will it look on the side of my vehicle where there are sharp radiuses on the cap?

Also, I'm a bit confused on the gutter area and how that may contribute to my leak. Anybody have some practical advice? I don't want to let a shop butcher it.

Thanks!
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Old 11-07-2012, 11:59 PM   #2
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If it leaks all the time, try changing the angle of the coach. Raise the front first and see if it leaks in the same spot. Then try raising the rear. This will often tell you if it's running from somewhere else like the marker lights or windshield.

Some of the Winnebagos had an issue with their roof design where the sidewall connects to the roof at the drip/rain rail. They had a "J" rail that connected the two together. You need to check and make sure the connection is still tight.

Lastly, my BIL had the "J" connection come loose on his Meridian. He used silver eternabond to match his paint. The colors never last long on the various eternabond tapes. He now regrets using the the eternabond because it's a nightmare to remove and it looks terrible.
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Old 11-09-2012, 05:49 PM   #3
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I read somewhere that there was a person in Huston tax that could fix leaks and do rv repairs and adj slides where are you
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Old 11-09-2012, 10:23 PM   #4
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3wheeljunkie - thanks for the info. I am in the Pacific northwest, so probably not a possibility.
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Old 11-10-2012, 04:30 PM   #5
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I have had white Eternabond on the edges of my roof since 2006 and although it's lost a little of it's luster, it's still white. Just added a 5' section over one of my chronically leaking windows and it looks good enough (and did stop the leak) that I'll be running Eternabond down the entire length of the RV, both sides, here soon. A pair of sizzors, a tall ladder, and patience makes it look pretty good.

I've also put it on the cap seams (front and rear) and running over the radius wasn't that hard on mine, and after 2-3 years doesn't look that bad.

But, looks are in the eye of the beholder.
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Old 11-10-2012, 09:22 PM   #6
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What I did on my coach was put silicone on top of all the frames of window and doors attached to the side of the coach. Sooner or later when you least expect it, something will leak. With the twisting and movement of the frame it is likely to happen.

This is one of the best ways to seal your openings: Clean above the frame real good and use isopropyl alcohol to remove any grease to make sure the silicone will stick. What I did was use painters tape on the frame even on the edge. Then put tape on the side of the coach leaving about 1/8” to 3/16” opening from the frame tape and the coach’s tape. When you are ready, put a small bead of silicone between both tapes all around the window. Use your finger and even it off wiping all the excess from your finger to paper towels. Do this 2-3 times so when you are finished it is a small-smooth-even bead sealing off the frame from the coach’s side. Immediately pull the tape off before the silicone starts drying and sealing off. If you wait too long, when you pull the tape it will mess up all your good work. If you take your time, you will not see the sealant along the opening and it will look factory installed. Good Luck……..
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:57 AM   #7
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MrMudstud - thank you for the advice. I'll be heading outside to my ladder to start the process. By the way, would you tell me a little about your water softener? Where we are has notoriously hard water and it plays havoc with our shower. Anything you could tell me would be greatly appreciated...
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:55 PM   #8
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02Adventures - A water softener is a MUST on any RV. Soft water will help in many ways besides just having better water. It will keep your faucets from plugging up and tarnishing the sinks & tub and wherever water is used.

BUT one of the biggest reasons is that solids will not stick to the sides of your black and grey water tanks that give off the awful smells we as RV’s encounter. Soft water lowers the surface tension of water which aids in suspending the solids in the tanks. When you empty the tanks, most if not all the solids are removed. This is my primary reason for having one; besides that, I am spoiled and like the feel of soft water and the clean feeling. Since I been using a water softener, I seldem put anything in my tanks for smell or to aid in cleaning them when flushing or dumping. With soft water solids will not stick, therefore no smell.

They offer small water softeners at Camping World or look around the internet and find a good one that uses rosin beads to remove calcium and magnesium particles. These are the ones that uses salt to regenerate the softener to begin the process all over again. The one I am using I made myself using rosin from an old water softener to fit my storage compartment in my RV. It is also important to have a good house filter at the water connection entering your coach to help and aid the cleaning process of the water softener. Good Luck……….
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Old 11-21-2012, 03:33 PM   #9
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I had the same leak. It was the joint between the roof panel and the sidewalls. It was leaking at the rear side and traveling in a box channel in the joint of the roof and sidewall and then running out on my head in the driver's seat. Drove me nuts until I found a web site that explained it. Seems you are supposed to check the sealant once a year along where the roof meets the sidewalls, push in on the roof where it meets the side wall,it should not give and open up a crack, if it does then the sealant needs to be replaced. I ran a chaulking gun down in the seam with a good quailty silicone sealant and it has been dry ever since. Winnebago put out a bulletin on this and you should be able to google it and see the proceedure. Of course they reccomend the Winnebago sealant.
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