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Old 12-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #43
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Trifecta of Safety

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Originally Posted by ScottRussell View Post

I'm just not to thrilled at the idea of jacking something this size up with a jack, or being under it while it's on jack stands (no matter HOW much they cost lol).
I'm with you, Scott. Your boards idea sounds good if it is done on an absolutely level surface. For added protection, I'd extend your jack legs, even if they are hovering off the ground (don't go to full extension).

And use jackstands.

I'm a three-level guy: I want to have ample room with no aids, eg air suspension up, plus the jacks, plus jackstands. Your boards do the first; then, you can apply the second and third levels of safety in the same way.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:26 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borderbuster View Post
browsing the other day and saw this.
Two to Travel's Phaeton Journeys: Service Bay 45: Wet Bay Floor Replacement
check out the third pic for the ramp. Looks like if you had 4 of these you could lift the whole coach about 10 inches.

This will be the route I am going to take if I have to crawl under our motorhome for any reason. Although I may drive up the rear ramps and then use the front jacks to lift the front and place blocks under front wheels.

That being said:

Several years ago a professional mechanic in our town was crushed and killed by a motorhome that he was working on. This was while doing routine maintenance that he had done many times before. Although the details weren't made public, rumor was the motorhome rolled or fell off the jack stands.
Those ramps are very much like what I was describing. I'm not sure if they are built horizontally like I was thinking, or if the boards are stood on end, cut to shape and then bolted/screwed together (like Bill's in post 13 on page one of this thread), but they are the same basic shape I had in mind.

I just really like the idea of having some 2x12's laid flat on the ground with 2 or 3 progressively shorter boards laid on top of them to form the "ramp". I know I'm probably just being paranoid, but even bolted together, if the boards are upright like Bill's, I just have the horrible vision of the wood shifting or splitting around the bolts/screws and collapsing to the side (in effect, the upright boards "lay over") and the RV landing on top of me. I'm sure Bill's are tested, tried and true, I just like the thought of there being no way for anything to shift sideways with this Imperial weighing 30K.
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Old 12-16-2013, 02:31 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RVNeophytes2 View Post
I'm with you, Scott. Your boards idea sounds good if it is done on an absolutely level surface. For added protection, I'd extend your jack legs, even if they are hovering off the ground (don't go to full extension).

And use jackstands.

I'm a three-level guy: I want to have ample room with no aids, eg air suspension up, plus the jacks, plus jackstands. Your boards do the first; then, you can apply the second and third levels of safety in the same way.
My rear driveway (someone had planned to build a driveway in back corner of my yard but never did) is concrete and flat as a pool table. I think it's the perfect place to put it up on ramps.

I'm with you the redundant safety. Even on our race cars, I typically leave the jack under the car extended, even with the car on the jack stands, just in case. The leveling jacks will certainly be down, even they won't touch the ground fully extended. I will also have at least 4 of the 6 tires chocked.

Overkill I'm sure, but I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and .... be dead.
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:10 PM   #46
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I had the same motorhome and I used three cut 2x6 boards making a stair step to raise the motorhome. I did it in front of my house on a slight down grade many times and never had a problem. Chocking the front wheels and applying the parking brake would insure the motorhome staying where it is. I have used the same ramps on my much heavier Panther with the same results.
Steve
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:22 PM   #47
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Parking brake operation

Scott, here is a link to explain how the parking brake works on your motorhome.

The Official Air Brake Handbook
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Old 12-16-2013, 07:28 PM   #48
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Scott, can you post a picture of the motorhome sitting on your level pad so we can see what the ride height looks like?
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:54 PM   #49
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Scott, can you post a picture of the motorhome sitting on your level pad so we can see what the ride height looks like?
Steve it will probably be the weekend before I'm home when it's light enough to get a decent picture, but I will then. For now, here's a couple pics from the ad.



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Old 12-16-2013, 11:56 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slemnah View Post
Scott, here is a link to explain how the parking brake works on your motorhome.

The Official Air Brake Handbook
Thanks!
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Old 12-17-2013, 10:44 AM   #51
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I was going to make ramps like OLDrtcr, but There is a truck shop a half mile from our home that has the old fashioned work pit as part of their alignment bay. When it is not in use, for a small fee, they let me use it for any inspection or adjustments I want to do. Walking underneath the MH with a cup of coffee is nicer than laying on my back.

I recently adjusted the minimum psi setting for the tag air bags. It makes it pretty easy to watch the gauge and dial in the pressure you want.
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Old 12-17-2013, 11:04 AM   #52
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I was going to make ramps like OLDrtcr, but There is a truck shop a half mile from our home that has the old fashioned work pit as part of their alignment bay. When it is not in use, for a small fee, they let me use it for any inspection or adjustments I want to do. Walking underneath the MH with a cup of coffee is nicer than laying on my back.

I recently adjusted the minimum psi setting for the tag air bags. It makes it pretty easy to watch the gauge and dial in the pressure you want.
A pit sounds like a dream world. You are one fortunate man to have that available to you.

This thing is pretty big not to be tag at 40' 6" long. I notice most of the newer RV's being sold of this size are pretty much exclusively tags (I'm assuming that refers to the extra set of rear wheels behind the main rear axle?).

After getting it home last night and getting under it for the first time and actually seeing first hand how extreme the driveshaft angle is due to how low the rear is sitting, I'm very excited to get the ride height adjuster reset (ride height set correctly) and take it for a road test.

On those tag air bags, I'm assuming increasing pressure also increases ride height? or does ride height only change when you add air to the bags on the main rear axle? I really don't know anything about tags (or RV's for that matter lol, but I'm learning), so I was curious.
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Old 12-17-2013, 07:50 PM   #53
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I use 4x4 2' long cut at angle to drive up on. U can also use a6 x6 both treated and they are perfect for changing tires on horse trl on the rd
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Old 12-17-2013, 09:34 PM   #54
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Increasing he pressure on the tag air bags does not affect the ride height. The height is controlled by the ride height valves. Increased pressure on the tag takes weight off the drive axle and increases the weight on the steer axle.
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Old 12-23-2013, 12:45 PM   #55
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Scott, as long as you keep under the differential housing...your safe....no worry of being smashed if coach lowers by moving valve the wrong way.
Raising the back(as your wanting to do) will gain you caster(which is a good thing)...and raising won't effect camber or toe
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Old 12-23-2013, 01:27 PM   #56
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I change the oil & filter on my M.H. my self, I just raise it on its concrete pad with it's jacks just high enough so I can get under it with my creeper and put a drain pan under the drain area.
I installed one of those drain plugs that all you have to do is flip the lever to drain it.
I don't have to use a wrench like before and don't worry about dropping the plug.
Just a thought.
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