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Old 09-04-2014, 11:19 PM   #43
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I did a little bit of fact finding on my coach today to check out some things I have said in this post.

Temp outside this afternoon was 96. I have a 38 foot double slide Allegro Bus. Two 15000 BTU Heat Pumps. Awnings open. All window awnings out. Silver Insulation across front window on inside.

Inside Air Temp 81 degrees. Both A/C zones set to 68 degrees all day.

Temp from ducts closest to A/C unit 58 degrees. Taken by typical HVAC thermometer placed inside duct.

My A/C units are putting out all they should be able to put out if I am seeing a 23 degree difference between inlet and outlet temp.
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Old 09-04-2014, 11:21 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pasdad1 View Post
Need to get a "dual hose" portable. The single hose units are everywhere.....skip those and find the dual hose model.....I'll tell you why...

The single hose models suck air from inside the RV (air conditioned air) and use it to cool the condenser coils, blowing the hot air outside through the single hose. This creates a negative pressure, and so hot outside air is drawn back in.....not good.

The dual hose models bring in outside air through one hose, cool the condenser, and exhaust the hot air through the other hose......much more efficient.....no negative pressure created, and you aren't continually taking cool inside air and blowing it outside.

I agree you can find the single hose units everywhere. Do you have any brand names to recommend that are double hose. All of the ones I looked at today were single hose.
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Old 09-05-2014, 06:06 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
I agree you can find the single hose units everywhere. Do you have any brand names to recommend that are double hose. All of the ones I looked at today were single hose.

Look at my post #25 above...... I give a link and picture
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:33 AM   #46
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Now check at distant duct outlet.

If air flow is low then less hest is removed from the air but it still seems good.

If distant duct is correct then enough air likely flowing to get good cooling.

If not cool as it should be (no clue to what it should be) then either air flow restricted or duct gaining heat from roof.

You can connect voltmeter to some fans and get a reading when fan turns and cam make a poor mans anemometer.

By capping ducts you could determine if restricted maybe.
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Old 09-05-2014, 01:01 PM   #47
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Look at my post #25 above...... I give a link and picture
Thank you I just skipped over it the first time. Interestingly enough when I googled it to see where else it was available Home Depot came up and they have several dual hose selections.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:35 PM   #48
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I'll throw my 2 cents in since I have spent considerable time and effort on our older (1997 37ft Endeavor).

The end result is, here in mid-Florida, with outside temps of about 95 degrees, with NO awnings deployed (RV is in outside storage, blacktop pavement ... no shade, no trees, no one on either side to block the sun), Reflectix in ALL windows (very close to the glass), I can get to 77 degrees inside on one A/C (either one). I can get below 75 degrees running both.

I have a 1 1/2 year old ducted 13500 Penquin on the front and a 1 year old non-ducted 13500 Brisk-Air II in the bedroom.

Interior measurements are with an Accurite dual sensor refrigerator thermometer, a Taylor digital wall thermometer, a Taylor table thermometer, and an Infrared Gun thermometer. They are within plus/minus 1/2 degree. They are about one degree different from the Dometic thermostat set point.

The biggest improvements, in our OLD coach (mediocre at best insulation), and listed in order of temperature improvement, were:

1) Aluminum braces fabricated to fully open the ductwork within the front A/C airbox. This included a total re-tape of the warm/cold sides of the airbox.

2) Reflectix in windshield (within 1 inch of glass).

3) Reflectix in all other windows (within 1 inch of glass).

4) Reflectix in shower skylight (curved to match skylight).

If I fully deploy the awnings (4 of them) I can get about 2 more degrees of drop inside.

If I don't do some of the above, temperatures will change.

A note on the non-ducted bedroom A/C ... it is VERY loud. Typically, we turn it off at bedtime and run a Lasko tower floor fan in the kitchen and facing the bedroom. When we are watching TV in the front, we run only the bedroom A/C to reduce noise.

Realistically, the best things you can do to reduce inside temps is to find a shady site, deploy the awnings, and put as many Reflectix panels in place as practical. Run the A/C all the time ... don't let the insides of the cabinets get hot. While traveling (in transit) in hot locations, run the genset and rooftop A/C.

You will find an Infrared Temp Gun to be worth every penny. Minor changes in site orientation can have a dramatic effect on RV skin temperature.

Finding what works for us has taken nearly 1 1/2 years of "tweaks".

For what it's worth, if you aren't willing to put the Relectix in the windshield and other windows, you probably won't achieve your goal of "cool inside". My wife doesn't like the way it looks ... but she doesn't like being hot either ... Reflectix wins out pretty quickly.

Good luck !!
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Old 09-05-2014, 04:13 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akeyzoo View Post
Was this a direct vent or ducted application?

Chris
ducted

i modified the carrier interior trim panel to fit the coleman mounts,
i still had to run wires over to a wall for the thermostat but that was easy enough,
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Old 09-05-2014, 11:34 PM   #50
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Haier HPYD12XCN Portable Air Conditioner this is the one we've been using. Or at least the one that 2 years older. So far it worked very well. The only negative is the bracket that holds the hoses in a window is very flimsy.
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Old 09-06-2014, 08:09 AM   #51
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Call Fleetwood and have them look at the drawings for your specific coach and see if they installed the 3rd AC bracing when the unit was manufactured. On many of their coaches, the bracing was installed whether it was ordered with 3 units or not. It is more likely to have been installed if the 3rd AC was an available option. If it is there, adding the 3rd AC is pretty easy, as all you have to do is cut the hole and run some wiring. If it is not there, adding the AC will be cost prohibitive, as you will need to install the bracing and re-roof the coach. I know this because when I ordered my then new 2010 Discovery, I specified the 3rd AC, but it was dropped from the options for 2010. Doug Haas (the senior engineer at Fleetwood) assured me that he did all the calculations, and that a 3rd AC was no longer necessary. Well I relented, and ordered the coach with only the 2 ACs. Well he was wrong and I was right. The coach was unbearable in hot weather. I brought the coach back to Decatur, and Doug personally came out and took measurements, and ultimately agreed with me. It needed a 3rd AC! So I have to really hand it to them, they decided to install the 3rd AC at their cost. The problem was that since they dropped the 3rd AC from the options list, they also did not put in the proper AC box bracing where the 3rd AC would go. Needless to say after a 3 months stay at the service center in Decatur, they installed the proper bracing and re-roofed the entire coach with new luan and membrane, repainted the membrane to the proper body graphics, and installed all new roof fixtures. When they finished, the job looked as it would have had they installed the 3rd AC on the assembly line. I really have to hand it to Doug Haas, that when he realizes he made a mistake, he will go all out to make sure the problem is corrected properly. The AC was properly integrated into the thermostat and power control unit. In any event the 3rd AC makes all the difference in the world. It will keep it meat locker cold in even a 119 degree Las Vegas summer day!
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:22 AM   #52
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The AC was properly integrated into the thermostat and power control unit. In any event the 3rd AC makes all the difference in the world. It will keep it meat locker cold in even a 119 degree Las Vegas summer day!
I'm sorry, you're not allowed to talk about how well your ACs work in this thread--it upsets some people!
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:48 PM   #53
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I'm sorry, you're not allowed to talk about how well your ACs work in this thread--it upsets some people!
Hmm... I guess I will have to start a new thread then.
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Old 09-07-2014, 12:35 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bruceisla View Post
I'll throw my 2 cents in since I have spent considerable time and effort on our older (1997 37ft Endeavor).

The end result is, here in mid-Florida, with outside temps of about 95 degrees, with NO awnings deployed (RV is in outside storage, blacktop pavement ... no shade, no trees, no one on either side to block the sun), Reflectix in ALL windows (very close to the glass), I can get to 77 degrees inside on one A/C (either one). I can get below 75 degrees running both.

I have a 1 1/2 year old ducted 13500 Penquin on the front and a 1 year old non-ducted 13500 Brisk-Air II in the bedroom.

Interior measurements are with an Accurite dual sensor refrigerator thermometer, a Taylor digital wall thermometer, a Taylor table thermometer, and an Infrared Gun thermometer. They are within plus/minus 1/2 degree. They are about one degree different from the Dometic thermostat set point.

The biggest improvements, in our OLD coach (mediocre at best insulation), and listed in order of temperature improvement, were:

1) Aluminum braces fabricated to fully open the ductwork within the front A/C airbox. This included a total re-tape of the warm/cold sides of the airbox.

2) Reflectix in windshield (within 1 inch of glass).

3) Reflectix in all other windows (within 1 inch of glass).

4) Reflectix in shower skylight (curved to match skylight).

If I fully deploy the awnings (4 of them) I can get about 2 more degrees of drop inside.

If I don't do some of the above, temperatures will change.

A note on the non-ducted bedroom A/C ... it is VERY loud. Typically, we turn it off at bedtime and run a Lasko tower floor fan in the kitchen and facing the bedroom. When we are watching TV in the front, we run only the bedroom A/C to reduce noise.

Realistically, the best things you can do to reduce inside temps is to find a shady site, deploy the awnings, and put as many Reflectix panels in place as practical. Run the A/C all the time ... don't let the insides of the cabinets get hot. While traveling (in transit) in hot locations, run the genset and rooftop A/C.

You will find an Infrared Temp Gun to be worth every penny. Minor changes in site orientation can have a dramatic effect on RV skin temperature.

Finding what works for us has taken nearly 1 1/2 years of "tweaks".

For what it's worth, if you aren't willing to put the Relectix in the windshield and other windows, you probably won't achieve your goal of "cool inside". My wife doesn't like the way it looks ... but she doesn't like being hot either ... Reflectix wins out pretty quickly.

Good luck !!
Do you by any chance have double pane windows. There has been a lot of remarks about what happens to the seals on the windows if you use Reflectix on the inside. Sounds like you have been doing it for a long time and can add some real life experience to that debate.
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Old 09-07-2014, 05:56 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
Do you by any chance have double pane windows. There has been a lot of remarks about what happens to the seals on the windows if you use Reflectix on the inside. Sounds like you have been doing it for a long time and can add some real life experience to that debate.
Yes, I have double pane (lightly tinted) windows. In my opinion, there is no problem with window seals related to Reflectix as long as the Reflectix is installed very close to the glass ... but that's the idea ... don't let the sun heat the air in the coach ... keep the air gap at an absolute minimum. That's a little harder in the windshield so I use pieces of 1/2" PVC cut slightly longer than the height of the window (a slight bow when installed). They fit between the dash and curtain track and bend outward (towards glass) to support the Reflectix.

I should add that I have had a few windows that fogged but they did that years before using Reflectix. They have been fine since resealing about 2 years ago.

BTW, years ago you did most of these things in your house in Florida and the Caribbean (except Reflectix) ... trees, single story structure, large eaves on the house, Bahama/Key West shutters or awnings, ceiling fans, window blinds, etc. More recent construction has ignored most of those items and installed more tons of A/C.
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:45 AM   #56
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I'm in the process of replacing the front A/C from 13500K unit to a 15500K unit (both have heat pumps) . The bedroom 13500K unit cools very well, but we can't get below 15 degrees of outside in the front.
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