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Old 04-24-2015, 08:02 AM   #71
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Given that standard "snap-in" rubber stems such as TR414 are rated 65 psi max per industry standards, I do have to wonder why some insist that rubber stems are OK for applications such as Class-A. Are there Class MH out there that spec 60 psi cold or less? I would like to learn, Could someone enlighten me?
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:57 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post

Given that standard "snap-in" rubber stems such as TR414 are rated 65 psi max per industry standards, I do have to wonder why some insist that rubber stems are OK for applications such as Class-A. Are there Class MH out there that spec 60 psi cold or less? I would like to learn, Could someone enlighten me?
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Old 04-24-2015, 09:26 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by CampDaven View Post
I have flow tru TST sensors and a 150 psi pancake compressor. No troubles at all. But I only need to top off about 2x a year, so no big deal either way
Dave, you win the prize for the best answer.

The choice of the compressor is the answer.

I fought with my tires when I first got the TST 507 system. My cold psi is 110# My old compressor was a 125 psi. Took forever to get 3# into the tire. When I went to a truck stop a short distance from my camp I had no problems getting air into the tires. Difference? Supply pressure. I now have a 150 psi pancake like you. Problem solved.

While I am commenting... The weight of the sensor makes no difference to the tire. I have not noticed any difference. I guess a ~1 oz weight on a 117# tire with a 6000 # load is not significant at any safe speed.

Lets say the tire get 517 revolutions in a mile (for the Michelin table). That's 517 rpm for a 275/80r22.5 tire. I didn't look up my car tire but I bet the rpm is a lot greater, thus more sensitive to weight imbalance. Besides, the load on my car tire is much less than on the coach...

Happy Trails,

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Old 04-24-2015, 10:05 AM   #74
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I really don't care what you do; I made the decision that I wanted to go back to the regular style. Works for me; that's all I care about.
No need to get defensive. I wasn't trying to change your decisions or the way you do things. I was just asking a simple question if the Allen key was absolutely required (perhaps it has a special mount that must be tightened by the key to prevent leaks?) I'm sorry if the question wasn't clear or if it agitated you.

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One other think I really like is their 6 sensor system displays all tires simultaneously. That is the one thing I would like to see in a TPMS system, rather than one that scrolls through each tire one by one.
I guess you're referring to this one?

It's an interesting display, but as always, personal preference comes into play. My following comments are not intended to question your motives or preferences, it's only to share some observations that may affect the usability of the unit. (If you don't currently have a TPMS, you may not have thought of some of this. If you do have one, you are probably set in your ways and what I say is pointless.)

My personal concerns are that it is very busy with lots of numbers on it, which could make it difficult to discern a trouble situation at a quick glance while driving - I don't want to have to study a display while driving, I want to keep my eyes mostly on the road. In my mind, the display is used for two purposes: as a pre-flight check, and while driving. During the pre-flight check, I'm interested in the details of each tire, but at the same time I have the time and ability to press a button and scroll through the various tire positions. Seeing everything at once is nice, but not really necessary in this preparation for departure phase.

Now, when driving, I don't want to press any buttons, but I want to be able to determine that everything is OK with a quick glance. Looking at 12 different numbers doesn't fit the "quick glance" bill in my mind. However, the larger numbers on the other display do: if no numbers are shown, and all tire position indicators are solid, I know things are OK. If numbers are shown and a tire position is blinking, then I know I have a problem. So my preference for the driving phase is a clean uncluttered display, where the difference between OK and a problem is easy to see. (My current TPMS goes one step further: there is a green LED that is on when everything is OK, and a large red LED and beeper if anything is amiss.) Just as I don't like the idea of all those numbers up at once, I also don't like the systems that are constantly automatically scrolling the tire readings, because they make it more difficult to determine the difference between OK and problem at a quick glance. (Those who eschew idiot lights and insist on gauges for everything are likely to disagree with me here. I like both: idiot lights for a routine quick scan, and gauges for a more detailed and less frequent scan.)

Yes, this very much comes down to personal preference. Have you considered these potential issues? (No need to answer publicly, just answer it to yourself.) As an engineer who often designs user interfaces, I put a lot of thought into what information is needed, at what time, and at what level of detail. So I may be analyzing this more than most people.

The other issue I see with this system is that it isn't useful for a person with a tag axle or a toad/trailer. Are you sure you will never tow anything? (I was sure I wouldn't be, and then not too long after that I was setting up a toad...) I find a TPMS is most useful for monitoring a toad/trailer, since you really can't feel or hear when you have problems with those tires: in my mind, if you have a TPMS and you tow, it's pointless to not have the towed vehicle included in the TPMS.

Again, not trying to talk you or anyone else out of it. Just sharing my thoughts on what initially looks interesting, but what I question whether is is actually practical. When something is radically different from anything else, I like to look below the surface to see if it really is an improvement.

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Originally Posted by Tireman9 View Post
Given that standard "snap-in" rubber stems such as TR414 are rated 65 psi max per industry standards, I do have to wonder why some insist that rubber stems are OK for applications such as Class-A.
Good question. I was assuming the rubber valve stem discussion was limited to toads (and maybe trailers.) Are there people running rubber stems on their MH? I assumed those were always metal bolt-in stems.
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:45 PM   #75
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The original discussion was on MHs (At least I thought it was)... Wasn't it on just motorhomes (Class A)? This is the Class A forum...

I am confused
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Old 04-25-2015, 09:49 AM   #76
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So in summary...
The manufactuers suggest using Metal Valve Stems, but the owner should change the rubber seals on them every 6-10 years.
Rubber Valve stems can be used, as some of the members report no problems.
Re balancing wheels after installing a TPMS is not neccessary since the larger MASS of the tire-wheel combinations on RVs negate the any small variations.

So there we have it!
Can everyone shake hands now?
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:04 AM   #77
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Lots of stuff to consider. IMO some features are more important than others.
In my blog post "Best TPMS" i didn't name a brand but offered a list of things to consider.
One item I did feel was very important was
" Early warning: I consider this an IMPORTANT and desirable feature
Imagine your cold pressure is 100 psi. Your low pressure warning is probably -15% or 85psi. When driving you might have a hot pressure of 120 psi. Now suppose you get a leak from a puncture or possibly a valve stem gasket leak. Would you rather get a warning when you loose 3 or 6 psi over a few minutes down from the 120 psi HOT pressure, or would you think it OK to only be warned after you loose 35 psi down from the hot pressure to the "Low Pressure Warning" level.?

In my opinion getting that "Early Warning" allows you to slow down and start looking for an exit or safe place to pull over as you monitor the air loss over then next 5 to 20 minutes you might have before you get down the the minimum pressure needed to carry the load.

Sometimes the rate of air loss can start small but increase over a few minutes as the hole in the tire gets bigger. If you only get the single warning it may already be too late to save and repair the tire
."

Just something to consider.



Dr4Film.... you are correct "you can't fix "Stupid" but there is a cure for "Ignorant" and that is education and information. We are all ignorant on a number of topics and there is a limit on what any one individual can know in depth. But the smartest people are the ones that realize what they don't know and make the effort to learn about a topic of importance or interest.
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:38 AM   #78
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Dr4Film.... you are correct "you can't fix "Stupid" but there is a cure for "Ignorant" and that is education and information. We are all ignorant on a number of topics and there is a limit on what any one individual can know in depth. But the smartest people are the ones that realize what they don't know and make the effort to learn about a topic of importance or interest.
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:43 AM   #79
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Thumbs up tire pressure monitors

Thanks to everyone for the great advice certainly much to consider. Hope to meet all of you on the road someday and share a drink.

Wayne & Dee
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:49 AM   #80
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Didn't feel like reading through everything, so sorry if this was mentioned but one thing that I like about my TST 507 system is that the display will run on a full charge for at least 50 hours. I just used mine for 2,500 miles and it still shows an almost full charge. Nice to have one less cord flopping around.
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Old 04-25-2015, 02:38 PM   #81
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Thanks to everyone for the great advice certainly much to consider. Hope to meet all of you on the road someday and share a drink.

Wayne & Dee
Best post yet! We can start a group called the "TPMS AIR HEADS" or maybe the "Heavy Metal Stems".
We can meet quarterly for "topping off" drinks and good "flat" stories!
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Old 04-25-2015, 03:50 PM   #82
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In my opinion getting that "Early Warning" allows you to slow down and start looking for an exit or safe place to pull over as you monitor the air loss over then next 5 to 20 minutes you might have before you get down the the minimum pressure needed to carry the load.
You know, you got me thinking. I had a blowout a couple years ago, and I've been trying to figure out what went wrong. I wonder if a lack of this early warning was a contributing factor. This statement, and some of your blog posts that I read recently, has me thinking.

First, I run my rear tires at 100 PSI, my weight calculations say they should be at 90 PSI. My TPMS is programmed to give the first stage low pressure alert at 90 PSI. There is no slow leak warning, only a fast leak which is defined as 2.8 PSI loss in less than 12 seconds (a fast leak indeed!) The tires at that time were 6 year old Michelin XZA2 275/80R22.5 with 40,000 miles on them.

So, I started out a trip with topped off tires, the rears being at 100 PSI. After driving just over 90 miles, my TPMS starts beeping, I have a rear tire that is below 90 PSI (I don't remember the exact number, it was somewhere in the high 80s. I'm coming up on an exit, so I immediately get off the Interstate (within a mile or two) and stop on a side road. A physical check of the tire shows no obvious damage, leak, or puncture. I use the on-board air to fill the tire back up. (I don't remember the pressure I used, I would think I would've filled it to the same hot pressure as the mating dual, but I'm not sure... I don't think I would've filled it to only 100 PSI at that point.)

I get back on the road, using the TPMS to keep an eagle eye on that tire, and the pressure never wavers. After a fuel stop and a total of 87 miles since the topoff, with the tire pressure still at the topped off pressure, I hear a bang, the TPMS immediately starts beeping, and the tire reads 0 PSI. I immediately pull over, the attached picture shows the result. This is the inside driver side dual, the blowout is on the side facing the outer tire.

With no slow leak warning, I don't know how long that tire was low before the alert sounded. I could've been driving on it for a while that way. Reading one of your blog entries where you say the damage that causes a blowout could've been done some miles earlier, do you think that initial low pressure might've been the cause of my blowout? Or is it just age? (The tires showed no signs of sidewall cracks.) Or both?

I am looking for a new TPMS, one with replaceable batteries. You can bet a slow leak warning is now on my requirement list!
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Old 04-25-2015, 04:01 PM   #83
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After posting this I decided to call TST. They will sell a monitor alone for $59 and Mike confirmed that there is nothing wrong with what I'm proposing. Mike says he gets lots of complaints from people about how poor their car TPMS systems are.
I don't think you need a second monitor though, the toad can be turn off from monitoring so I would think the coach could also. Before you buy a second monitor I would check this out unless you just prefer to have the second monitor and I can understand that, sometimes it is just easier.
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Old 04-25-2015, 07:15 PM   #84
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I don't think you need a second monitor though, the toad can be turn off from monitoring so I would think the coach could also. Before you buy a second monitor I would check this out unless you just prefer to have the second monitor and I can understand that, sometimes it is just easier.
I already called and spoke with Mike at TST and I asked that exact question. The answer was "no" there is no way to turn off the MH tires and just have the toad's active.
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