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Old 01-04-2011, 05:36 PM   #71
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Help! The tires on our 2010 FRED chassis Winnebago Adventurer say max cold pressure of 110. The decal in the door post says inflate to 120. Which one? Thanks, sylvrob
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:42 PM   #72
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I'm afraid your stuck with the max pressure as listed on the tire not the coach, are you sure you have the correct load range tires installed versus just the right tire size?
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Old 01-04-2011, 05:56 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sylrob View Post
Help! The tires on our 2010 FRED chassis Winnebago Adventurer say max cold pressure of 110. The decal in the door post says inflate to 120. Which one? Thanks, sylvrob
First, never exceed the pressure limit of the tire.

Second, weigh your rv and adjust the pressure according to the weight.

Third, install a tpm system so you can run down the highway stopping every few miles letting air out so you can add air the next morning.

Number three is a joke.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:07 PM   #74
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Help! The tires on our 2010 FRED chassis Winnebago Adventurer say max cold pressure of 110. The decal in the door post says inflate to 120. Which one? Thanks, sylvrob
That seems VERY odd that the mfg. would put tires on that can't handle the pressure/load recommended. Are those the original tires that came on the coach? If so, I suspect a wrong door sticker. My Itasca Meridian V Class 34Y DP has a 900 lbs higher GVWR and only specs 110 at the max load of 27,910 lbs. I'd give Winni a call and confirm.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:23 PM   #75
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...Third, install a tpm system so you can run down the highway stopping every few miles letting air out so you can add air the next morning. ...
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:29 PM   #76
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Beating a dead horse here, but I agree with everyone else, DO NOT add or remove air from tires after you have been on the road. Always check your pressure before leaving for your trip. You think air temperature causes issues, then don't drive in the mountains, as pressures will rise and drop considerably. When on a trip, check your tire pressure daily, and don't just blindly trust you TPMS, as mine is off several pounds. I know the difference between mine and my digital (calibrated) gage and I go by that.

As far as the chassis saying 120 and the tires saying 110, I would suspect the chassis tag is wrong. There are very few motor homes out there running 120 psi. 110 psi is the standard for most large truck tires and what will be stamped on the sidewall. Weigh yours, you will probably find you are 15-20 psi less than that.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:39 PM   #77
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Third, install a tpm system so you can run down the highway stopping every few miles letting air out so you can add air the next morning.

Number three is a joke.


You rock, Jim!

Don
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:47 PM   #78
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Without looking at a dictionary, who knows the definition orthogonal? I'm surveying how many people on this forum are ignorant.

Jim E
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Heh.. A right angle...

made me laugh when you said it too
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OK, I looked it up onGoogle and according to Wikipedia orthogonal means perpendicular and if so why not use the word many of us under educated would understand?

Ok I am a little slow and had to look it up my self

or·thog·o·nal

   /ɔrˈθɒgənl/ Show Spelled[awr-thog-uh-nl] Show IPA
–adjective 1. Mathematics . a. Also, orthographic. pertaining to or involving right angles or perpendiculars: an orthogonal projection.

b. (of a system of real functions) defined so that the integral of the product of any two different functions is zero.

c. (of a system of complex functions) defined so that the integral of the product of a function times the complex conjugate of any other function equals zero.

d. (of two vectors) having an inner product equal to zero.

e. (of a linear transformation) defined so that the length of a vector under the transformation equals the length of the original vector.

f. (of a square matrix) defined so that its product with its transpose results in the identity matrix.



2. Crystallography . referable to a rectangular set of axes.




Use orthogonal in a Sentence


See images of orthogonal


Search orthogonal on the Web

Origin:
1565–75; obs. orthogon ( ium ) right triangle (< LL orthogōnium < Gk orthogṓnion (neut.) right-angled, equiv. to ortho- ortho- + -gōnion -gon) + -al1

—Related forms or·thog·o·nal·i·ty, noun
or·thog·o·nal·ly, adverb







Sound to me like deffinition c and d means nothing

Still enjoyed reading this thred.
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Old 01-04-2011, 06:51 PM   #79
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Orthopedic>bone doctor

Orthogonal> I'm not touching this one
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:00 PM   #80
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Orthopedic>bone doctor

Orthogonal> I'm not touching this one
Now I don't care who you are.........that's funny.

Don
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Old 01-04-2011, 08:51 PM   #81
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The basic equation is P1*V1/T1 = P2*V2/T2. Fpr the purpose of considering tires, it's not going to bring a big error if you assume volume stays the same. So then the equation simplifies to P1/T1 = P2/T2.

Whatever pressure you read at home (P1) at whatever temperature exists (T1) (in degrees absolute, which is degrees F +460) will increase in the ratio of your destination temperature (also in absolute degrees) to your home temperature. If it was 20F when you measured the pressure at home and it's 80 F at your destination then the pressure will have increased in the ratio of 540/480, which is 12.5%.

En-route, the rolling tire temperature will have a much higher influence on pressure. I don't have a feel for how hot tires get, but assuming maybe they get to 150F, then the pressure would go up, due to the tires' temperature rise, in the ratio of 610/480 or 27 percent.

If you're travelling from a very cold location and your tires at that location are inflated to close to their max pressure rating, a 27% increase may cause a failure.

Does anyone have data showing how hot tires get on the road? I'm just guessing on that 150F condition.

Bottom line - if you're inflating your tires to a pressure close to their maximum rating or the whell max rating, in a cold climate, and then heading out to a much warmer environment, the combination of heat due to running the rig plus the effect of the warmer climate at your destination may be enough to cause a failure due to over-pressure.

Scary huh?
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:13 PM   #82
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Exclamation

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...

Bottom line - if you're inflating your tires to a pressure close to their maximum rating or the whell max rating, in a cold climate, and then heading out to a much warmer environment, the combination of heat due to running the rig plus the effect of the warmer climate at your destination may be enough to cause a failure due to over-pressure.

Scary huh?
Not really.

I have to believe that the tire and wheel manufacturers have given just a wee bit of thought into this and realize that when a tire is inflated to it's COLD temperature max, that the pressure will rise when it heats up in use. I would also venture to guess that the pressure at which a tire will fail is well above the pressure a tire will rise to on a cold day turned hot - ie normal use. Then again I'm also pulling this info out of my a$$, just like everyone else here .

From what I've read, most tires fail due to UNDER inflation not over inflation. That's why they recommend inflating to the proper cold pressure and never bleeding air from a warm tire.
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Old 01-04-2011, 11:58 PM   #83
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I have personally seen tires inflated to 2x thier rating and held up just fine (LT, not RV though RV tires can go 30-40% over cold and be ok))... Remember, when over inflated there is less flexing of the sidewalls and less tread in contact with the road, therefore less heat build up. MOST tire blowouts that can be attributed to tire pressure are due to LOW pressure, not high. If your preferred pressure is 90psi (due to weight), you could go all the way to the tires max of 110psi (20 over) and run all day. Go down to 70psi (20 under) and see how far you get.

Now ask yourself, 'Why?'....
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Old 01-05-2011, 04:33 AM   #84
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Thanks for all responses! I'll call Winnebago and use 110 for now. Certainly need to get weighed too. sylrob
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