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Old 12-03-2014, 10:02 AM   #29
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Try this: I use a coffee mug of Walmart's cheap dishwasher power (it has enzymes) and baking soda all dissolved in a pan of hot then dumped down the hopper. I do this after each dump and at about 1/2 tank then dump at 3/4. If your grey stinks that is from keeping the valve closed and goop building up. Do the same solution for it. Having this stuff in the tanks as you drive helps much.

Rick Y
I'll take your suggestion and file it in my trial schedule, however the odor I was talking about would be the one coming from the campgrounds pipe that you connect to and the odor that it emits flowing thru your open line into the RV. Keeping your valve closed keeps other peoples odors out of your RV.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:42 AM   #30
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Why would odors back up into your RV from leaving your grey water valve open? Are not the sink and shower outlets trapped and vented?

I, like most RV'ers leave the black closed until it hits 3/4, and I leave the grey open until a day before dumping the black. In addition to providing a clean flush to the slinky, you don't make the mistake of dumping the black with the grey valve open, thereby forcing black into the grey tank.

I see no other reason to close the grey water valve as the water has no significant solids to clog the system, when I dump the grey, it looks quite clear (I have a clear 45 bend just before the slinky.

That clear 45 has really helped me get the black tank clean, I run the flush water as well as 3 bowls of toilet water and am surprised how many times it quits flowing out thinking I am done, then all of a sudden it blasts a big glob of yuck down the pipe.
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Old 12-04-2014, 11:24 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by CJ7ole View Post
Why would odors back up into your RV from leaving your grey water valve open? Are not the sink and shower outlets trapped and vented?

I, like most RV'ers leave the black closed until it hits 3/4, and I leave the grey open until a day before dumping the black. In addition to providing a clean flush to the slinky, you don't make the mistake of dumping the black with the grey valve open, thereby forcing black into the grey tank.

I see no other reason to close the grey water valve as the water has no significant solids to clog the system, when I dump the grey, it looks quite clear (I have a clear 45 bend just before the slinky.

That clear 45 has really helped me get the black tank clean, I run the flush water as well as 3 bowls of toilet water and am surprised how many times it quits flowing out thinking I am done, then all of a sudden it blasts a big glob of yuck down the pipe.
Issue with the tanks is the stack that vents the tanks. If the stack is venting and you have a roof vent open the gas can get into the coach. If not the venting has to flow down the sides of your RV to either your patio side or the patio of your neighbor.

Everytime someone dumps their tank air is pushed from the sewer system. It can go a number of places but if your open valve is closest that is where it will likely go.
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Old 12-04-2014, 01:09 PM   #32
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I'll take your suggestion and file it in my trial schedule, however the odor I was talking about would be the one coming from the campgrounds pipe that you connect to and the odor that it emits flowing thru your open line into the RV. Keeping your valve closed keeps other peoples odors out of your RV.
You must have some other problem. Both the black and gray tanks are air and water tight down low and vented to the roof. If you are getting sewer odors with the gray valve open something is wrong. I have never had a back draft when hooked up.

When we first got this coach the bathroom stunk. After using the treatment (a mug of each) the odor disappeared and the gauges work better.
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Old 12-04-2014, 02:05 PM   #33
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You must have some other problem. Both the black and gray tanks are air and water tight down low and vented to the roof. If you are getting sewer odors with the gray valve open something is wrong. I have never had a back draft when hooked up.

When we first got this coach the bathroom stunk. After using the treatment (a mug of each) the odor disappeared and the gauges work better.

Likely an air admittance valve under one of the sinks or at the W/D connection is not sealing properly and allowing air into the coach from the tank. These valve are cheaply made and are a high failure rate item. Replace with a higher quality one from Lowes or HD.


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Old 12-04-2014, 09:59 PM   #34
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Issue with the tanks is the stack that vents the tanks. If the stack is venting and you have a roof vent open the gas can get into the coach. If not the venting has to flow down the sides of your RV to either your patio side or the patio of your neighbor.

Everytime someone dumps their tank air is pushed from the sewer system. It can go a number of places but if your open valve is closest that is where it will likely go.
The simple solution is to always configure a water trap in the sewer hose, works identical to your kitchen drain trap.
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Old 12-05-2014, 12:51 AM   #35
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The simple solution is to always configure a water trap in the sewer hose, works identical to your kitchen drain trap.
X2. We started doing that this summer. Makes a difference.
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Old 12-05-2014, 03:18 AM   #36
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I have heard tell that sometimes the odors that get vented through the roof vent can either get sucked into the AC or through the Fantastic Fan. That might be how even a properly vented coach would end up getting the odors back inside.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:38 AM   #37
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X2. We started doing that this summer. Makes a difference.
I thought this was SOP? Just a bump in the hose will do the trick.
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Old 12-06-2014, 10:43 AM   #38
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I have heard tell that sometimes the odors that get vented through the roof vent can either get sucked into the AC or through the Fantastic Fan. That might be how even a properly vented coach would end up getting the odors back inside.
That could happen when you feed water to the grey (valve closed) or black tank because air is vented out. When the grey valve is opened I think you will draw air down the stack when the water flows in the dump hose. Even fumes from the running generator could be drawn in under the right circumstances.
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:32 PM   #39
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The simple solution is to always configure a water trap in the sewer hose, works identical to your kitchen drain trap.
Yup - I just prefer not to do that. See post 13. With our current setup the black fills as fast as the gray except when we are doing laundry.
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Old 12-06-2014, 07:46 PM   #40
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Traps/Flies

Good idea to form a trap into the dump hose but not always easy. If you do not "form a trap" sewer flies can get into your gray tank and vent system if the valve is left open. If one of your interior gray traps dries out or your interior vent fails open, then you may get flies inside. Do whatever you want with the info you have.
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Old 12-06-2014, 08:17 PM   #41
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X2 cjkroodsma as the house exits my coach i form a U before putting the hose on a slunky. This forms a trap for fumes. Off course when i dump the black tank i straighten out the U for better flushing
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Old 12-07-2014, 08:47 AM   #42
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Yup - I just prefer not to do that. See post 13. With our current setup the black fills as fast as the gray except when we are doing laundry.
Your choice. You do have a very good tank wash system built in that cleans the hose for the most part. When getting ready to disconnect simply close the grey valve the day before and then flush your hose before you disconnect.

I have filled the shower a few times because I forgot to open the gray. If you haven't done that yet the chances are pretty good that you will. The first tell tail sign is the smell.

Rick Y
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