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Old 05-15-2012, 06:19 PM   #15
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Seems like the only way to clean the jacks is to extend them all the way and then crawl under the coach. Am I the only one too chicken to do that?
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:22 PM   #16
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ATF fluid is good, silicone spray is good.

This is what I use for the jacks, electric steps, towbar and anything else that needs lubed.
Jig-A-Loo - an invisible silicone-based lubricant and water-repellent !
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Old 05-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #17
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I have Power Gear jacks, when they don't go up all the way, I put them down manually, spray the piston with WD-40, then wipe them down. They've never failed to go up after that.

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Old 05-15-2012, 06:55 PM   #18
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I have a jack that is sticking on a unit I just bought. It was sticking when I test drove it and when I bought it a week later I had been told that it was sticking and they sprayed silicon lube on it again. It worked for a couple of leveings then the same jack was sticking again. I got under the unit and it liked about a 1/2 to an 1 inch of going all the way up. Was just down enough to keep it from showing up I reached up and pushed it all the way up and did not feel like it was sticking. It just seemed to have the normal drag of having to push fluid back out of the line. I had the impression it might be that over the years the springs have lost a bit of their tension and just have weakened a little. My coach is a 2005 allegro bus Has anyone had tried just replacing the springs on the jack to see if that helped.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:00 PM   #19
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I have an Atwood electric system, and the front driver side would not come down. I had to call a tech at a camp site. He turned the 1/2" nut at the bottom of the motor a few times and they worked. After being camped at the site for ten days, the same one would not go up. I used his trick and got it up. When I came home I tried to get them down and had the same problem not only with that one the rear passenger side was acting too. I used the same trick to get them down. While down, I sprayed them with silicon spray and they seem to work - will see how long. At least I know the trick
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Old 05-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #20
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Yes, we replaced the springs on our HWH jacks. Made a world of difference. Would recommend it for older coaches.

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Old 05-15-2012, 10:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srh View Post
I have an Atwood electric system, and the front driver side would not come down. I had to call a tech at a camp site. He turned the 1/2" nut at the bottom of the motor a few times and they worked. After being camped at the site for ten days, the same one would not go up. I used his trick and got it up. When I came home I tried to get them down and had the same problem not only with that one the rear passenger side was acting too. I used the same trick to get them down. While down, I sprayed them with silicon spray and they seem to work - will see how long. At least I know the trick
I have Atwood too and love them. Never had a problem and know they can manually be raised. Scary thought about how long it would take. Please post how it goes. I have not lubed mine at all.
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:17 PM   #22
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Our gas coach has the KwiKee level best 2000 jacks. Hydraulic pressure extends and retracts the jacks, no springs. In the 12 years we've had our coach, I've never wiped nor lubricated them. To date they still function properly, no leaks.. sure hope my luck lasts
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Old 05-15-2012, 10:21 PM   #23
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There are a number of reasons why the jacks operate slow going up. I had problems with HWH jacks being slow and it was because the seals failed and no amount of any lube would solve the problem. Pulled the jack and a local hydraulic shop replaced the seals and the jack went from being the slowest up to the fastest.

Also comparing our RV jacks to commercial and farm equipment hydraulic systems is a little off base. RV jacks are hydraulic down spring up - not totally hydraulic. This requires springs to be in good shape. HWH has upgraded springs for older units. I installed these and it made a difference.

Comments regarding keeping equipment clean makes common sense. On a visit to the HWH factory to have a slide cylinder replaced I found them to be most helpful.

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Old 05-15-2012, 10:35 PM   #24
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Just left the HWH factory this morning. They say NOT to use silicon on the jacks because it will leave a coating that hardens on the jack shafts and eventually ruins the seals. Use WD40 or ATF to clean the shafts.

The most common cause for slow jack return is dried out seals. Jacks can be repaired or you can buy remanufactured jacks. Reman jacks have a one year warranty and come with the new style springs.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:02 PM   #25
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Good posts! I was told by the Tiffin Service Department to use silicon spray.
TAZ: You are right it will take a long time to manually get them up/down - it takes something like 500 turns for 1". You would need a drill for that. It does turn easy.
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Old 05-16-2012, 07:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DennisZ View Post
I have Power Gear jacks, when they don't go up all the way, I put them down manually, spray the piston with WD-40, then wipe them down. They've never failed to go up after that.

Dennis
From Power Gears web site:

11. My jacks donít retract fully. What do I do?
Hydraulic jacks can be cleaned and lubricated on the chrome rod that extends out from the barrel of the jack with silicone spray. If your jacks are equipped with zerk grease fittings at the bottom of the outer barrel then lubricate them with all purpose lithium grease. Do not use WD-40 as it can damage the seals in the jack assembly.
For Power Gear touch pad number 140-1179, please see Manual 82-L0327.
For Power Gear hydraulic touch pad part numbers 140-1226 and 500629, see Hydraulic Parts and Service Manual 82-L0506.
For Power Gear electric jacks with touch pad part number 140-1226, see Manual for Electric Levelers Trouble Shooting Guide.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:08 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srh
Good posts! I was told by the Tiffin Service Department to use silicon spray.
TAZ: You are right it will take a long time to manually get them up/down - it takes something like 500 turns for 1". You would need a drill for that. It does turn easy.
My 2011 Phaeton had a slowly retracting left rear passenger side jack that was problematic. Tiffin factory folks said to try the DRY SILICONE SPRAY, this seems to work fine!
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:10 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVTotem
Just left the HWH factory this morning. They say NOT to use silicon on the jacks because it will leave a coating that hardens on the jack shafts and eventually ruins the seals. Use WD40 or ATF to clean the shafts.

The most common cause for slow jack return is dried out seals. Jacks can be repaired or you can buy remanufactured jacks. Reman jacks have a one year warranty and come with the new style springs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Largeandy

My 2011 Phaeton had a slowly retracting left rear passenger side jack that was problematic. Tiffin factory folks said to try the DRY SILICONE SPRAY, this seems to work fine!
Goes to show the debate is not just at our level... :-)
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