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Old 12-28-2014, 09:57 AM   #15
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I think it a safe bet that pump body contains a lot of water when it stops pumping, not to mention the fact that pressurizing the system afterward can blow even more back into it.

As mentioned, not worth the gamble to me when the coach can be done with antifreeze in less time with 5 bucks (or less) worth of anti freeze. That's about as "correct" a method as you can get....

Do as you like. The fact you've been getting away with your process doesn't make it right, especially for those considering following in your footsteps.
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:28 PM   #16
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I have successfully not winterized for the past 12 years in Folsom, Ca.

We also get an occasional 25 degree night, but the 20 to 30 degree rise in temps during the day seem to avoid damaging freezing in the rig.
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:44 PM   #17
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I think it a safe bet that pump body contains a lot of water when it stops pumping, not to mention the fact that pressurizing the system afterward can blow even more back into it.

As mentioned, not worth the gamble to me when the coach can be done with antifreeze in less time with 5 bucks (or less) worth of anti freeze. That's about as "correct" a method as you can get....

Do as you like. The fact you've been getting away with your process doesn't make it right, especially for those considering following in your footsteps.
Not the price of anti freeze. I don't want that yucky stuff in my water lines. I winterize and de winterize on the road while traveling as necessary. Plus I read MSDS sheets.
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:52 PM   #18
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We use air, followed by the pink. But we only winterize once a year. Cleaning out the lines involves running copious amounts of water through the lines to clear them before we use the water.
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Old 12-28-2014, 05:32 PM   #19
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Desertvince, I'm across the AZ/NM border from you in the NM high desert most of the winter. I never drain or winterize any of my 3 RV's here, because I'm continually coming and going in one of them all winter. It does take a bit of baby sitting and some common sense precautions, but overnight lows in the 20's are not that risky, especially when our afternoon temps are 60.
When mine are sitting out here, not being lived in, I put a small space heater in each, set to 40-50, and add a 60 watt trouble light in the water bay. I also drain & shut my ice maker line. I found from past experience that its those very small lines/hoses that freeze up first. Each rig has slightly different high risk freeze points that may need some special attention.
Having said that, if you're not using the rig regularly during winter, then winterizing is easy, cheap and worthwhile.
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Old 12-29-2014, 01:13 PM   #20
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As another that has to use their rig during the winter, winterizing it three times per season gets really old.

I blow the air through to get the water out, drain the HWH, drain the fresh water tanks, antifreeze in all the traps, make sure the waste tanks are empty and then leave a 40 watt bulb burning in the water pump bay. The interior gets a 1500 watt heater and the furnaces are set to come on if it gets really chilly or the power goes out.

This has worked well with two coaches for the last seven years. Much of that was tested here in Reno a few winters ago when the highs were single digits. It all works.

As for those that think this is the wrong way, I contend it's simply a different way of doing it.

Edit: I don't mind putting this stuff in my drains, but it's not going in my fresh water side.

http://www.rclservicesgroup.com/wp-c...nti_freeze.pdf
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Old 12-30-2014, 12:22 AM   #21
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We just blow out lines because we also winterize several times a year. Whatever works. No method is wrong if it works. We haven't had any problems with temps of 20 below.
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:10 PM   #22
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The answer to your question is how much risk are you prepared to take and what are the potential financial implications if you lose. If there is a strong wind at 25 degrees the risk is much greater than still weather. Likewise as other pointed out, the risk may be low with day time temperatures well above freezing and the coach in the sun. The easiest thing to do is to open any gravity drains in the coach basement and all taps/valves inside the coach to facilitate drainage by gravity or use a compressor to blow out the lines.
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Old 12-30-2014, 08:37 PM   #23
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We just blow out lines because we also winterize several times a year. Whatever works. No method is wrong if it works. We haven't had any problems with temps of 20 below.
It's not really about right or wrong. There are plenty of variables that must be considered. E.G.- what works on a coach kept in a shed or garage, even if it has no heat, might not work on one out in the wind even if the temps don't drop below 25f.

My point is regarding those looking for assurance, not willing to risk potentially expensive damage. It's NOT just about you.
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:51 PM   #24
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And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.
When I am not working and living in my MH I like to go camping in the state parks during the winter months ( A lot more options on places to park) It is not uncommon for me to have to winterize at least twice a month and sometimes three times. I go through a set procedure and I get all the water I can out of the faucets the first time. Then I let everything set for a while and do them all the second. then wait and do them all the third time. I have not had a problem. I am not talking about below zero or even single digit temps. If I was in below zero I would use the pink stuff every time. Above single digits I am not worried about my method and if you are right and I break a water line I will know better next time.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:13 AM   #25
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It's not really about right or wrong. There are plenty of variables that must be considered. E.G.- what works on a coach kept in a shed or garage, even if it has no heat, might not work on one out in the wind even if the temps don't drop below 25f.

My point is regarding those looking for assurance, not willing to risk potentially expensive damage. It's NOT just about you.
Don't know what climate you live in or what RV you have. My manual specifically indicates that either method works on my RV. As posted before many RV dealers blow out the lines and no antifreeze except in the traps. Some people get a little overly concerned about problems that don't exist. Most likely because they have read horror stories about people that winterized wrong and had problems. My MH has sat outside with 25 below and wind chill down to 60 below and not a problem. However, nothing wrong with using that yucky stuff in your lines if you choose. If it gets cold enough that antifreeze does freeze. The air in my lines don't. If I thought for a minute there would ever be a problem with just blowing out the lines I would use that yucky stuff. Mainly it is just a bunch of baloney.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:19 AM   #26
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Be sure and come back this spring and you'll see posts from people who did just the blow out winterizing complaining about broken lines. I've seen it year after year. Even the magazines say to use the anti-freeze even after blowing the water out.
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Old 12-31-2014, 02:34 AM   #27
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If the motor home is in use 25 is within specifications for most class A's.

If not, a couple of 100 watt light bulbs in Wet Bays (Bays with water tanks waste or fresh) will help.. as will limited heat inside.

NOTE with 100 watters make sure the bulb is caged

I use a string of C-9 Christmas tree lamps under my fresh tank, and a 100 Watt Cages lamp in the black/gray end. Both are controlled by a thermostat designed for stock tank heaters or eve (house roof) heaters.

Works well.

But I'm a full timer.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:58 AM   #28
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Don't know what climate you live in or what RV you have. My manual specifically indicates that either method works on my RV. As posted before many RV dealers blow out the lines and no antifreeze except in the traps. Some people get a little overly concerned about problems that don't exist. Most likely because they have read horror stories about people that winterized wrong and had problems. My MH has sat outside with 25 below and wind chill down to 60 below and not a problem. However, nothing wrong with using that yucky stuff in your lines if you choose. If it gets cold enough that antifreeze does freeze. The air in my lines don't. If I thought for a minute there would ever be a problem with just blowing out the lines I would use that yucky stuff. Mainly it is just a bunch of baloney.
My experience includes 20 years spent managing the back end of a fairly large SE Mi. RV dealership. I've heard people tell me they've been blowing out their system for years on many different occasions... It was just another bill to replace a blown pump, valve, or 20' section of water line to me. Sometimes it takes a little convincing regarding how to winterize.

Hardly what I would call over reacting to a well known issue.... or spreading hearsay.

You can do as you like. Makes no difference here (I now winter in Fl.!). As mentioned already, my concern lies with others following along here. Those possibly less experienced, looking for some advice on what to expect in cold weather. Because you are getting away with blowing your system out provides nothing in the way of guarantees, or even assurance they might be able to get away with it as well - and it makes no difference one way or the other what that stuff tastes like. All you need to do is carry some drinking water with you. Many do that anyway...
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