Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 12-31-2014, 07:29 AM   #29
Senior Member
ladagobago's Avatar
Winnebago Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: DW Driver -Winter Englewood FL, Summer Willingboro NJ
Posts: 1,227
Blog Entries: 11
We usually winterize a few time per season to take trips up north or just out for a week. Luckily we have a factory installed winterization kit that includes a switch to bypass the water heater and another to switch the feed for the pump to the antifreeze tank. I also added a flex line and spickot to the water heater drain plug for easy drain of tank. the main water tank has a dump valve which we release. of course we dump the grey and black tanks.

the antifreeze is held in a three gallon tank all that is needed is about 10 minutes to do it all. Refreshing the lines only takes about 15 minutes. we fill the water tank, throw the two switches and run the lines clear.

It would not take to much to retrofit an existing system except for the water heater bypass which could be accomplished manually.

I learned my lessons of winterization as a boater for thirty years. You did not want to exercise poor judgement when you have two toilets, 3 showers, 4 sinks, 1 ice maker, water heater, three water cooled air conditioner, and two huge water cooled heat exchange's for the engine plus a water cooled generator. One mistake is worth thousands.

I tried running heater and lights in the MH but found it was a pain and the 6 bucks for the pink stuff was worth no worry.

La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
ladagobago is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-31-2014, 07:58 AM   #30
Registered User
mel s's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 8,777
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.
I've stored my coach through 13 Wisconsin winters, (where temps drop below zero), by simply "gravity draining" everything in the fresh water system...(NO "blowing out"), (NO RV anti-freeze, except in the P-traps and Splendide drain pump)... and never had any "freeze damage".

That is not my recommendation.... just how I always winterize.

'96 Safari

mel s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 09:16 AM   #31
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
Originally Posted by ahicks View Post

My experience includes 20 years spent managing the back end of a fairly large SE Mi. RV dealership. I've heard people tell me they've been blowing out their system for years on many different occasions... It was just another bill to replace a blown pump, valve, or 20' section of water line to me. Sometimes it takes a little convincing regarding how to winterize.

Hardly what I would call over reacting to a well known issue.... or spreading hearsay.

You can do as you like. Makes no difference here (I now winter in Fl.!). As mentioned already, my concern lies with others following along here. Those possibly less experienced, looking for some advice on what to expect in cold weather. Because you are getting away with blowing your system out provides nothing in the way of guarantees, or even assurance they might be able to get away with it as well - and it makes no difference one way or the other what that stuff tastes like. All you need to do is carry some drinking water with you. Many do that anyway...
My MH manual shows the steps for properly winterizing. It shows both methods. So guys that want to use the cancer causing chemicals can use them. I've been RVing since mid 60s never had any problems yet. Guess I've just been lucky for over 50 years. LOL Baloney
wyorancher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 09:30 AM   #32
Senior Member
mchero's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Full Time USA
Posts: 1,714
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Be sure and come back this spring and you'll see posts from people who did just the blow out winterizing complaining about broken lines. I've seen it year after year. Even the magazines say to use the anti-freeze even after blowing the water out.
I ONLY drain my lines! No Air, No "pink stuff" Just in the traps.

I drain the main water tank, open all faucets & open the drain lines. Gravity drains the lines, I also take the plug out of the HWH (no By-pass)

7+ years winterized in NH w/o ANY issues.

Depends on the coach.
Robert & Deb
07 Discovery 39v FWS Full Timers, Yuma AZ
1K solar - 05 Jeep Grand Cherokee
mchero is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2015, 08:22 PM   #33
Senior Member
KD4XR's Avatar
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Alabaster, AL
Posts: 127
After reading this thread I decided to go pink. My "new to me" MH makes it so easy. Drain the fresh water tank, drain the water lines, drain the water heater, set the water heater bypass to bypass, disconnect the ice maker water line, insert a plastic hose in a container of RV anti freeze, switch a valve to winterized, start the water pump, open each water faucet until pink stuff comes out, flush the commode, turn the water pump off, remove and recap the plastic hose, and switch the winterize valve back to normal. This took about 30 minutes and dropped my stress level considerably!

Jerry & Susie
2006 Itasca Horizon 40KD, 2014 CRV, Blue Ox
2017 Harley RoadGlide Ultra
KD4XR is offline   Reply With Quote


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
winterizing question and Hydro hot malsbeaver RV Systems & Appliances 9 12-30-2014 01:39 AM
Winterizing water heater Frankie Z Class C Motorhome Discussions 8 11-17-2014 10:30 AM
Winterizing problem with 06 Diplomat jacmat Monaco Owner's Forum 8 10-26-2014 08:01 AM
Washer Winterizing Filmshooter National RV Owner's Forum 2 10-25-2014 06:24 PM
What are normal tire temperatures?? Gary.Jones Monaco Owner's Forum 38 06-11-2014 09:10 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:48 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.