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Old 12-31-2014, 07:29 AM   #29
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We usually winterize a few time per season to take trips up north or just out for a week. Luckily we have a factory installed winterization kit that includes a switch to bypass the water heater and another to switch the feed for the pump to the antifreeze tank. I also added a flex line and spickot to the water heater drain plug for easy drain of tank. the main water tank has a dump valve which we release. of course we dump the grey and black tanks.

the antifreeze is held in a three gallon tank all that is needed is about 10 minutes to do it all. Refreshing the lines only takes about 15 minutes. we fill the water tank, throw the two switches and run the lines clear.

It would not take to much to retrofit an existing system except for the water heater bypass which could be accomplished manually.

I learned my lessons of winterization as a boater for thirty years. You did not want to exercise poor judgement when you have two toilets, 3 showers, 4 sinks, 1 ice maker, water heater, three water cooled air conditioner, and two huge water cooled heat exchange's for the engine plus a water cooled generator. One mistake is worth thousands.

I tried running heater and lights in the MH but found it was a pain and the 6 bucks for the pink stuff was worth no worry.

La Dagobago
99 36 FL Winne Chieftain 5.9 ISB Turbo Cummins DP, 24' box with 1972 V12 XKE Jag and HD Sporty Hobby of 1970's Suzuki dirt bike restoration. Visit my blog.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:58 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.
I've stored my coach through 13 Wisconsin winters, (where temps drop below zero), by simply "gravity draining" everything in the fresh water system...(NO "blowing out"), (NO RV anti-freeze, except in the P-traps and Splendide drain pump)... and never had any "freeze damage".

That is not my recommendation.... just how I always winterize.

'96 Safari

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Old 12-31-2014, 09:16 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by ahicks View Post

My experience includes 20 years spent managing the back end of a fairly large SE Mi. RV dealership. I've heard people tell me they've been blowing out their system for years on many different occasions... It was just another bill to replace a blown pump, valve, or 20' section of water line to me. Sometimes it takes a little convincing regarding how to winterize.

Hardly what I would call over reacting to a well known issue.... or spreading hearsay.

You can do as you like. Makes no difference here (I now winter in Fl.!). As mentioned already, my concern lies with others following along here. Those possibly less experienced, looking for some advice on what to expect in cold weather. Because you are getting away with blowing your system out provides nothing in the way of guarantees, or even assurance they might be able to get away with it as well - and it makes no difference one way or the other what that stuff tastes like. All you need to do is carry some drinking water with you. Many do that anyway...
My MH manual shows the steps for properly winterizing. It shows both methods. So guys that want to use the cancer causing chemicals can use them. I've been RVing since mid 60s never had any problems yet. Guess I've just been lucky for over 50 years. LOL Baloney
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:30 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
Be sure and come back this spring and you'll see posts from people who did just the blow out winterizing complaining about broken lines. I've seen it year after year. Even the magazines say to use the anti-freeze even after blowing the water out.
I ONLY drain my lines! No Air, No "pink stuff" Just in the traps.

I drain the main water tank, open all faucets & open the drain lines. Gravity drains the lines, I also take the plug out of the HWH (no By-pass)

7+ years winterized in NH w/o ANY issues.

Depends on the coach.
Robert & Deb
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:22 PM   #33
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After reading this thread I decided to go pink. My "new to me" MH makes it so easy. Drain the fresh water tank, drain the water lines, drain the water heater, set the water heater bypass to bypass, disconnect the ice maker water line, insert a plastic hose in a container of RV anti freeze, switch a valve to winterized, start the water pump, open each water faucet until pink stuff comes out, flush the commode, turn the water pump off, remove and recap the plastic hose, and switch the winterize valve back to normal. This took about 30 minutes and dropped my stress level considerably!

Jerry & Susie, Alabaster, AL
2006 Itasca Horizon 40KD, 2014 Honda CRV, Blue Ox
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