Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-27-2014, 06:05 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
desertvince's Avatar


 
Tiffin Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 101
Tolerable temperatures w/o Winterizing

We live in Tucson, typical lows in January of about 25 degrees. In our new to us '06 Phaeton, can we get away without "winterizing"? Probable use one week in January, next trip, February. In 2010, the "100 year" low was 17 degrees--yes, I would expect to winterize with that type of forecast, but thinking just a couple hours of nightly low at say the typical 25 degrees--might not require it?
__________________

__________________
Vince & Patricia, Tucson--AZ, FMCA, RVMutants#130
With: Ch. "Carrie", Std. Schnauzer & "Sophie" Cocker
'06 Phaeton 40QDH + '11 Fiesta w/ AirForceOne.
"It is more important to know the journey is the destination than to get there quickly."
desertvince is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 12-27-2014, 06:38 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
jacwjames's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 4,597
You are probably right, the coach will warm up during the day and retain heat. Is it parked inside or out, sun or shade??? If it is close to your house you could put a remote temp monitor in it and see what the fluctuation and differential is.

In TN I have the coach parked next to the house with remote temp monitor in both basement and living area. The basement seems to stay a couple degree warmer then living area. The other night it got down to 25 and the living area tem was ~34.

If you have access to electric you could put a couple heat lights plugged into a thermostat plug (can buy at Lowes).

Good luck
__________________

__________________
Jim J
2002 Monaco Windsor 38 PKD
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/5.7 Hemi
jacwjames is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2014, 07:35 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Ray,IN's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North America somewhere
Posts: 13,699
Speaking of Indiana weather; I have never had a problem with not winterizing if highs reach 50 and lows stay above 27 when the RV was parked/stored outdoors.
__________________
2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA 1SG, retired;PPA,Good Sam Life member,FMCA."We the people are the rightful masters of both the Congress and the Courts - not to overthrow the Constitution but to overthrow men who pervert the Constitution. "Abraham Lincoln"
Ray,IN is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2014, 10:15 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 57
I think you can get away with a lot depending on your tolerance for risk. If things go south (gets real cold) a lot of damage can be done!!!!
__________________
GScherrer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2014, 10:38 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
gemini5362's Avatar
 
Tiffin Owners Club
Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 2,078
For the amount of work it takes to winterize. The potential cost and inconvenience of repairs makes it an easy decision to make.

If you have access to a compressor just blow your water lines out to winterize. I do that and have had single digit cold without any problems. You can buy an adapter that will screw into your fresh water hose and then it has a quick disconnect fitting that will fit into an air line. Set your compressor for about 50psi and set your water heater bypass valve to bypass. Open up the faucets both hot and cold side until air comes out. I do that about three times per faucet. Flush the commode until air comes out of the line. Then drain the hot water heater. If you want to be really careful put cup of rv antifreeze in each sink drain and shower. Drain the fresh water tank. Takes me about 20 minutes. When you are ready to go just put the drain back in the hot water heater open up the bypass valve and hook up to your potable water source. run faucets until water is running out. No antifreeze taste to worry about. Then you do not have to worry about whether or not it might get cold enough to damage something.
__________________
gemini5362 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2014, 10:52 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
vsheetz's Avatar


 
Fleetwood Owners Club
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 11,782
I recently posed a similar question for a TT I have on a permanent space near San Josť CA. Based upon feedback I placed an electric heater in the unit on a freeze prevention thermostatic controlled online switch. Heater turns on when the temp gets near freezing, off when it warms back up.
__________________
Vince and Susan
2011 Tiffin Phaeton 40QTH (Cummins ISC/Freightliner)
Flat towing a modified 2005 Jeep (Rubicon Wrangler)
Previously a 2002 Fleetwood Pace Arrow 37A and a 1995 Safari Trek 2830.
vsheetz is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-27-2014, 11:05 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Mr_D's Avatar
 
Solo Rvers Club
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 28,423
Quote:
Originally Posted by gemini5362 View Post
For the amount of work it takes to winterize. The potential cost and inconvenience of repairs makes it an easy decision to make.

If you have access to a compressor just blow your water lines out to winterize. I do that and have had single digit cold without any problems. You can buy an adapter that will screw into your fresh water hose and then it has a quick disconnect fitting that will fit into an air line. Set your compressor for about 50psi and set your water heater bypass valve to bypass. Open up the faucets both hot and cold side until air comes out. I do that about three times per faucet. Flush the commode until air comes out of the line. Then drain the hot water heater. If you want to be really careful put cup of rv antifreeze in each sink drain and shower. Drain the fresh water tank. Takes me about 20 minutes. When you are ready to go just put the drain back in the hot water heater open up the bypass valve and hook up to your potable water source. run faucets until water is running out. No antifreeze taste to worry about. Then you do not have to worry about whether or not it might get cold enough to damage something.
And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.
__________________
2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA, SKP
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '14 CR-V
Mr_D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 06:40 AM   #8
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Holland, MI
Posts: 470
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_D View Post
And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.
I have used the compressed air for years and in several MHs. I have never had a problem with a few drops of water freezing. The pink stuff is for the traps in the drains.
__________________
1995 Roadtrek 19 Versatile
Dodge 318
1975 GMC Eleganza II
bsinmich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 07:22 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
Quote:
Originally Posted by bsinmich View Post

I have used the compressed air for years and in several MHs. I have never had a problem with a few drops of water freezing. The pink stuff is for the traps in the drains.
I also just use compressed air. Works fine in WY. Manufacturer says it works in the manual and many RV dealers use just compressed air. Either way works if done correctly.
__________________
wyorancher is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 07:35 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
RRDefector's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 346
Water in the lines is the problem... 25 is below freezing so Drain it all. interior and basement may stay warm but the pex lines can be run along and thru the walls and flooring.. Doesn't take much to freeze pipes and the damage is considerable. Not so much the cost of the pex, but the cost of accessing it. Set basement therm or small aux heater(space or bulb) and interior therm if hooked to shore power. If you only away overnight a very slow trickle at the faucets will help keep water moving.. Make sure gray and black tank are empty.


Robert & Jana Stanton... Birthing a 20..something CornerStone 44B
__________________
Robert & Jana + fur baby rescues...Jimmie,Pepper,Pixie
2015 Entegra Anthem 44B
RRDefector is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 07:52 AM   #11
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Notyourbusiness
Posts: 557
I am also in Tucson. My RV is kept on my property and I never winterize. Currently the overnight lows are a few degrees below freezing. On such nights I turn on the heater and set the thermostat for 45*. So far it's working fine keeping the interior, water lines and holding tanks above freezing without using too much propane. I use my TH year round and don't want to winterize, un-winterize, winterize, etc.
__________________
V3600 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 07:57 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Pds47's Avatar
 
Monaco Owners Club
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 260
Blog Entries: 1
I live in Tucson I just blow the lines and drain the water heater dump pink in the drains. Easy to get rolling next trip. Just fill with water and go.
__________________
Paul & Megan 2007 Neptune XL 36 PDQ REK Bilsteins, KarKaddy,mini cooper, W/ Bear and Sedona
Pds47 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 07:57 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Snowbird - Waterford Mi and Citrus Springs Fl.
Posts: 3,608
For those blowing out their systems, how do you get that air through your water pump?

If you blow your system out using conventional wisdom (connecting air pressure to your city water hook up) , you are leaving that water pump, and the line from it to the fresh water tank, full of water.

As an ex RV tech, I can tell you we used to replace a LOT of toilet valves on blown out systems as well. I always blamed that on the vacuum breakers, but never knew that for a fact.

For what it takes to just pump anti freeze through a system equipped with a a Y selector valve in the line from your water tank to the pump, and a water heater bypass, it's not only the safest method, it might be the fastest. Once you've done it a few times, most coaches (those without washing machines or ice cube makers) can be done with a gallon of anti freeze.

But Geez, don't ever put anti freeze in your fresh water tank. Takes forever to get that taste out of there. Not to mention you'll need several gallons of anti freeze to get the level high enough for the pump to pull it....
__________________
1997 37' HR Endeavor, 275hp Cat, Freightliner
03 CR-V Blue Ox, Ready Brake
ahicks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-28-2014, 08:14 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 733
Once my tank is empty the pump stops pumping water and is empty. I remove the pump water filter and also remove my whole RV water filter. Since I do it correctly never have any problems. Of coarse it only gets down to 30 below in WY.
__________________

__________________
wyorancher is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
winter



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
winterizing question and Hydro hot malsbeaver RV Systems & Appliances 9 12-30-2014 02:39 AM
Winterizing water heater Frankie Z Class C Motorhome Discussions 8 11-17-2014 11:30 AM
Winterizing problem with 06 Diplomat jacmat Monaco Owner's Forum 8 10-26-2014 09:01 AM
Washer Winterizing Filmshooter National RV Owner's Forum 2 10-25-2014 07:24 PM
What are normal tire temperatures?? Gary.Jones Monaco Owner's Forum 38 06-11-2014 10:10 AM

» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.