Tolerable temperatures w/o Winterizing

[desertvince]

We live in Tucson, typical lows in January of about 25 degrees. In our new to us '06 Phaeton, can we get away without "winterizing"? Probable use one week in January, next trip, February. In 2010, the "100 year" low was 17 degrees--yes, I would expect to winterize with that type of forecast, but thinking just a couple hours of nightly low at say the typical 25 degrees--might not require it?

[jacwjames]

You are probably right, the coach will warm up during the day and retain heat. Is it parked inside or out, sun or shade??? If it is close to your house you could put a remote temp monitor in it and see what the fluctuation and differential is.

In TN I have the coach parked next to the house with remote temp monitor in both basement and living area. The basement seems to stay a couple degree warmer then living area. The other night it got down to 25 and the living area tem was ~34.

If you have access to electric you could put a couple heat lights plugged into a thermostat plug (can buy at Lowes).

Good luck

[Ray,IN]

Speaking of Indiana weather; I have never had a problem with not winterizing if highs reach 50 and lows stay above 27 when the RV was parked/stored outdoors.

[GScherrer]

I think you can get away with a lot depending on your tolerance for risk. If things go south (gets real cold) a lot of damage can be done!!!!

[gemini5362]

For the amount of work it takes to winterize. The potential cost and inconvenience of repairs makes it an easy decision to make.

If you have access to a compressor just blow your water lines out to winterize. I do that and have had single digit cold without any problems. You can buy an adapter that will screw into your fresh water hose and then it has a quick disconnect fitting that will fit into an air line. Set your compressor for about 50psi and set your water heater bypass valve to bypass. Open up the faucets both hot and cold side until air comes out. I do that about three times per faucet. Flush the commode until air comes out of the line. Then drain the hot water heater. If you want to be really careful put cup of rv antifreeze in each sink drain and shower. Drain the fresh water tank. Takes me about 20 minutes. When you are ready to go just put the drain back in the hot water heater open up the bypass valve and hook up to your potable water source. run faucets until water is running out. No antifreeze taste to worry about. Then you do not have to worry about whether or not it might get cold enough to damage something.

[vsheetz]

I recently posed a similar question for a TT I have on a permanent space near San José CA. Based upon feedback I placed an electric heater in the unit on a freeze prevention thermostatic controlled online switch. Heater turns on when the temp gets near freezing, off when it warms back up.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by gemini5362

For the amount of work it takes to winterize. The potential cost and inconvenience of repairs makes it an easy decision to make.

If you have access to a compressor just blow your water lines out to winterize. I do that and have had single digit cold without any problems. You can buy an adapter that will screw into your fresh water hose and then it has a quick disconnect fitting that will fit into an air line. Set your compressor for about 50psi and set your water heater bypass valve to bypass. Open up the faucets both hot and cold side until air comes out. I do that about three times per faucet. Flush the commode until air comes out of the line. Then drain the hot water heater. If you want to be really careful put cup of rv antifreeze in each sink drain and shower. Drain the fresh water tank. Takes me about 20 minutes. When you are ready to go just put the drain back in the hot water heater open up the bypass valve and hook up to your potable water source. run faucets until water is running out. No antifreeze taste to worry about. Then you do not have to worry about whether or not it might get cold enough to damage something.

And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.

[bsinmich]

Originally Posted by Mr_D

And when you get done with that put the RV antifreeze in all the water lines! Air pushes through water and then the water pools in the low points. Every year there are people that try just the air method and then come here wondering what to do about the broken pipes. RV anti-freeze is cheap compared to a broken pipe and possible water damage.

I have used the compressed air for years and in several MHs. I have never had a problem with a few drops of water freezing. The pink stuff is for the traps in the drains.

[wyorancher]

Originally Posted by bsinmich

I have used the compressed air for years and in several MHs. I have never had a problem with a few drops of water freezing. The pink stuff is for the traps in the drains.

I also just use compressed air. Works fine in WY. Manufacturer says it works in the manual and many RV dealers use just compressed air. Either way works if done correctly.

[RRDefector]

Water in the lines is the problem... 25 is below freezing so Drain it all. interior and basement may stay warm but the pex lines can be run along and thru the walls and flooring.. Doesn't take much to freeze pipes and the damage is considerable. Not so much the cost of the pex, but the cost of accessing it. Set basement therm or small aux heater(space or bulb) and interior therm if hooked to shore power. If you only away overnight a very slow trickle at the faucets will help keep water moving.. Make sure gray and black tank are empty.


Robert & Jana Stanton... Birthing a 20..something CornerStone 44B

[V3600]

I am also in Tucson. My RV is kept on my property and I never winterize. Currently the overnight lows are a few degrees below freezing. On such nights I turn on the heater and set the thermostat for 45*. So far it's working fine keeping the interior, water lines and holding tanks above freezing without using too much propane. I use my TH year round and don't want to winterize, un-winterize, winterize, etc.

[Pds47]

I live in Tucson I just blow the lines and drain the water heater dump pink in the drains. Easy to get rolling next trip. Just fill with water and go.

[ahicks]

For those blowing out their systems, how do you get that air through your water pump?

If you blow your system out using conventional wisdom (connecting air pressure to your city water hook up) , you are leaving that water pump, and the line from it to the fresh water tank, full of water.

As an ex RV tech, I can tell you we used to replace a LOT of toilet valves on blown out systems as well. I always blamed that on the vacuum breakers, but never knew that for a fact.

For what it takes to just pump anti freeze through a system equipped with a a Y selector valve in the line from your water tank to the pump, and a water heater bypass, it's not only the safest method, it might be the fastest. Once you've done it a few times, most coaches (those without washing machines or ice cube makers) can be done with a gallon of anti freeze.

But Geez, don't ever put anti freeze in your fresh water tank. Takes forever to get that taste out of there. Not to mention you'll need several gallons of anti freeze to get the level high enough for the pump to pull it....

[wyorancher]

Once my tank is empty the pump stops pumping water and is empty. I remove the pump water filter and also remove my whole RV water filter. Since I do it correctly never have any problems. Of coarse it only gets down to 30 below in WY.