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Old 01-28-2016, 05:36 PM   #15
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The one from Northern tool mentioned in a earlier post has a 6% friction loss. But you just compensate for that:

The mechanical advantage in the use of your torque multiplier is derived from the planetary transmission within the gear head of the tool. With the torque multiplier reaction bar in a fixed position against a stationary object, and the input tool driving, the socket and fastener sees forces equalling the ratio of the torque multiplier or combination of multipliers
being used times the input force. Due to frictional losses in the gear train, a torque loss factor within 6% should be anticipated.
Regards,
Dan
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Old 01-28-2016, 06:08 PM   #16
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Thank you all for the informative replies. I'm leaning toward the multiplier. I assume I will need a 1 inch drive extension to reach the rear lugs. What length are you guys using?
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Old 01-28-2016, 07:23 PM   #17
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:06 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
The black end ( socket ) goes on the nut you want to get loose.

The yellow finger rests against the next lug.

In the big end ( left side in picture ) there is a reduction gear set.

You turn the left end with a torque wrench 4 turns to 1 turn of the socket if it is a 4 to 1 multiplier. It will turn with 4 times less effort.
Thanks, i never would have figured that out by looking at the picture.
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Old 01-29-2016, 06:27 PM   #19
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I replaced my brake pads last year and I did not want to spend $$ on a torque multiplier. I removed my wheels using a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe as a cheater bar. after replacing the pads, I used the same setup except I wanted to measure the torque I was applying to each nut. I tightened each lug nut down as much as I could and then positioned the bar and cheater on each nut so that the bar was horizontal to the ground. I then stood on a bathroom scale and pressed down at the end of the cheater bar and monitored my weight. Of course, the reading decreased. When my weight decreased by 100 lbs, I knew I had exerted 400 ft--lbs of torque on the nut (I was pressing down 4 ft out from the center of rotation for the breaker bar. To do this, the bar must be as horizontal as possible to get a good measurement. This is a slow process, but I don't do this often. You can use a longer pipe as a cheater and use less force. I know this is "redneck" but that's what I am. Hope you get a good laugh out of this method.
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Old 01-29-2016, 07:44 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I replaced my brake pads last year and I did not want to spend $$ on a torque multiplier. I removed my wheels using a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe as a cheater bar. after replacing the pads, I used the same setup except I wanted to measure the torque I was applying to each nut. I tightened each lug nut down as much as I could and then positioned the bar and cheater on each nut so that the bar was horizontal to the ground. I then stood on a bathroom scale and pressed down at the end of the cheater bar and monitored my weight. Of course, the reading decreased. When my weight decreased by 100 lbs, I knew I had exerted 400 ft--lbs of torque on the nut (I was pressing down 4 ft out from the center of rotation for the breaker bar. To do this, the bar must be as horizontal as possible to get a good measurement. This is a slow process, but I don't do this often. You can use a longer pipe as a cheater and use less force. I know this is "redneck" but that's what I am. Hope you get a good laugh out of this method.
I believe you could do something similar with the handle horizontal, but 180 degrees off, and lift the handle. Watch your weight on the scale go up by the 100 pounds. In my brain, a dead lift of that handle may be easier to regulate than the angles involved in shifting your weight onto the handle by pushing down on it...
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Old 01-29-2016, 08:05 PM   #21
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I vote for 4 ft cheater bar--my 220 lbs 2ft from pivot point gets me 440 ft/lbs--easy-peazy. Also recommend that you buy a 3/4 inch drive, 33mm or 1 5/16 inch, deep-well socket. The studs on the rear duels tend to stick out a bit from the nut so a std depth socket doesnt fit very well.....
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Old 01-29-2016, 08:47 PM   #22
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It's a whole lot easier with the correct torque wrench.
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Old 01-29-2016, 10:57 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSagal View Post
I believe you could do something similar with the handle horizontal, but 180 degrees off, and lift the handle. Watch your weight on the scale go up by the 100 pounds. In my brain, a dead lift of that handle may be easier to regulate than the angles involved in shifting your weight onto the handle by pushing down on it...
That would work if your scale had the range. I weigh 260 lbs and my bath scale would max out with that method. That why I did it the other way. Like I said, it is not as easy as using a torque multiplier, but I did not want to spend $$.
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Old 01-30-2016, 06:57 AM   #24
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I found a Performance Tools wrench online at Summit Racing. Best price, delivered as promised and damn quick delivery time.

I specifically got it to check the lug nut torque before our trips; it a peace of mind purchase.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-m204/overview/
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Old 01-30-2016, 12:55 PM   #25
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I found a Performance Tools wrench online at Summit Racing. Best price, delivered as promised and damn quick delivery time.

I specifically got it to check the lug nut torque before our trips; it a peace of mind purchase.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-m204/overview/
That's probably one of the reasonably priced, 3/4" drive, 600 lb. torque wrenches I've ever seen, BRAND NEW! If I didn't have my Proto already, I'd purchase one of those in a heartbeat. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better and seriously more accurate than trying to "calculate" if I'm applying the correct and, EQUAL amount of torque, on each of the 40, 450 ft. lb. lug nuts. Nice price for a normally higher priced outfit, Summit.
Scott
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Old 01-30-2016, 02:18 PM   #26
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I think I've changed my mind again.


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Old 02-02-2016, 07:51 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JD11 View Post
I found a Performance Tools wrench online at Summit Racing. Best price, delivered as promised and damn quick delivery time.

I specifically got it to check the lug nut torque before our trips; it a peace of mind purchase.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-m204/overview/
After much thought, I bought this one. It is of better quality than I expected for the price. I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet, but I think it will work fine.
Thank you all for your suggestions.
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Old 02-03-2016, 02:48 PM   #28
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Torquing lug nuts.

After reading all the replies here I see Rube Goldberg is still around.
My setup is a Proto 6:1 torque multiplier. Half inch drive input and 3/4 drive output. I use an old Craftsman Beam torque wrench I have had for almost 50 years. It still calibrates out at 1% error. Not bad for that type wrench.
One thing not mentioned here is whether the torque readings are taken on dry threads or on lubed threads. Makes a difference. Usually the coach or chassis manufacturer will specify one or the other. I like Never Seize for the lube when called for.

Regarding the sockets you all are using you will find that Budd wheel makes what you need accomodating both the hex and square in one socket in 3/4 drive. Usually these are carried on the various tool trucks you see around town. They are referred to as a Budd socket.

It's wise to check your torque as very few if any tire stores will make the investment in torquing equipment and most of the help will not take the time to use it if they do have it. They get on the lugs with their 1 1/2" drive impact wrench and cinch the daylights out of the nuts stretching the studs beyond acceptable limits.
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