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Old 02-24-2012, 12:10 PM   #29
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Papachaz,
I don't intend to use the toilet in Ethyl very much, emergencies only and I got in the habit of putting the paper in a trash can rather than down the tubes =) The fridge is not the original one but one that uses electricity more's the pity. I have a separate microwave, hot plate and toaster oven that I will use instead of the built in stuff. They are unplugged when not in use. Fortunately for me, I will be in my daughter's house most of the time but like the RV for when I want quiet time. Thanks for your info about the tanks. It actually made sense =)
I'll be showering in the house for now and using the bathroom in there too. I won't cook much out there because my family likes my cooking. The father of my son-in-law is coming over tonight and we'll see if we can run a 30 amp breaker and line to the shop and plug the RV in from there. That way I won't have to use any extension cords what so ever.
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Old 02-24-2012, 07:15 PM   #30
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Welcome to iEV2 and Happy RVing once you get Ethyl all fixed up!
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:14 AM   #31
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I noticed you asked about the water hose but I didn't see any answers.

The hose used for RV's is always white, is specifically made for drinkable water, and can be found at most any store that carries RV products. Like Walmart, RV dealerships, even the occasional Ace Hardware or Home Depot. Don't use a garden hose as that will often give your water a bad taste. Especially if the hose has been sitting out in the sun with still water in it while connected to your RV.

An earlier poster was correct about using bleach to 'shock' and sanitize the water system with bleach. That method would be used with a system that's in bad shape and the water at the taps smells and tastes funny. If you're confident that the tank and system has had recent use, then you can simply 'clean' the system and use it, without having to dump the tank two or three times, by using Hydrogen Peroxide...1oz/60gallons. (Many stores carry 'non-clorine' bleach these days). Then sweeten the water with 1/2cup Baking Soda per 60 gallons. And to remove smells...1 & 1/2 cup vinegar/60 gallons. All of these treatments are drinkable and should be added during a fill to mix it in.

Generators don't need a 'Charge'. I don't know what the seller was trying to tell you with that comment. Gensets use the chassis battery to start, same battery that starts the rig, so if the genset isn't turning over, but the rigs engine does, then something is wrong with the generator or the cabling. There are usually two start switches for the genset, one on the dash, and one on the genset itself. If it won't turn over using one of those, try the other. Also check the 12V fuse on the genset, if it's bad, it will turn over but not start. Then there are two toggle switches on the genset that act as breakers. They need to be in the right position to output 120Vac after it's running. If it turns over but won't start, then it would need service. But many good car mechanics (friend?) would know how to handle the general maintenance work that may need to be done.

BTW, did you get the manuals for all the devices in your RV? Very helpful to have, but many products, like your genset, have manuals on-line.

Quote:
question, are devices pulling mega power when they aren't turned on but ARE plugged in?
Most on-board devices aren't pulling 'mega power' but many are pulling power all the time, even when off. Those are your parasitic loads and they add up. Things like the Carbon Monoxide and LP detectors, TVs, VCRs, AC radios, the dash radio, etc. The converter is your biggest load (converts 120Vac to 13.6Vdc to charge your house batteries and supply your 12V lighting system).

Note that many older RV's only provide an 'optional' solar panel to keep the chassis battery charged...and they don't work well. So many RV'ers (the previous owner?) add a small $20 float charger (Walmart) connected to that battery and plugged into AC. So when you're on shore power it's being charged all the time. It will die if there isn't a provision for this.
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:30 AM   #32
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Merry, Welcome to the forum and congrats on the MH. Like all said, you do not have 220. You just need the adapter to go to the regular 110 outlet and a heavy duty extention cord that is rated at 30 amps. You won't be able to run the AC and microwave at the same time. You will probably be plugged into a 15 amp outlet from the house. Good luck and stay tuned here for lots of help...
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:53 PM   #33
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got all the manuals for everything and have been studying them trying to learn about her
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:59 PM   #34
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I finally am getting an electrician to come out on thursday to hook up the electric for me or at least give me an estimate on it. I will know what needs to be done by then. Gonna see about getting a breaker installed in the house and run regular wire to the shop then plug into a receptacle out there. That way I can bury the wire.
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Old 02-28-2012, 05:01 PM   #35
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thanks =) I'm looking forward to the day I can take her out on the road. Does anyone know if I need a special driver's license to drive her?
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:03 AM   #36
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No, you don't need anything other then your regular valid license.

Make sure your electrician knows that a 30A outlet for an RV is wired different then a 30A outlet used for appliances in a house. With a single 30A circuit breaker. Here's a link: 30A RV Plug.

Wiring it wrong at the house is how many people accidentally apply 240Vac to their rigs. (And many electricians don't know that it's only single phase). And might be why so many people here on the forum have mentioned it.

That outlet can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot. The box often says 'RV or Trailer use' on it.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:12 AM   #37
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Merry, I ran an under ground servive for mine, but only put in a 110 V. 20 amp. Plenty to run the AC and fridge, but can't use the Microwave with AC on.
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Old 02-29-2012, 07:35 PM   #38
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Merry-
My first RV was a 33', 1986 HR Presidential, tag axle rig on a Chevy P-30 chassis. It had a 454 chevy V-8. I assume yours is similiar.

You've got plenty of good advice here on electric service. As stated many times, Your limited to 30 amp (120v) service. When you get a proper 30 amp service panel installed and connect to it, you can only run one roof air conditioner at a time- The "both" setting is only on generator operation.
The generator (house) batteries will be charged once you are plugged into your 30 amp service through the DC converter built into your rig.

Further down the road , the brakes are marginal, at best, even if everything is completely rebuilt. I found the tag axle drum brakes were off a Ford F-350 (I think). I had a major steering problem keeping it in one lane. All front end steering mechanical parts were found to be sound. The problem turned out to be the Saginaw steering box needed an adjustment.

You have bought a "project vehicle" my dear,
Best of luck to you-

There is a "Vintage RV" section here on irv2 that will gain you a lot more knowledge on your specific rig.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:25 AM   #39
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I don't mind having bought a project RV =). She's like me, a work in progress lol
I have an electrician coming to hook up a connection for Ethyl. It will only be for her and one A/c unit at a time is good enough for me. The back bedroom is used for storage and I'm going to put a day bed behind the driver's seat and get rid of that uncomfortable fold out couch. What I need to find out now is about the LP tanks, someone who will empty the waste tanks aand not bankrupt me and a white hose for hooking up the water.
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:26 AM   #40
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John,
I'm going to run a 30 amp connection. The fridge is a replacement. Electrician says it should be able to run all with no problem. I'll hook everything up while he's there just to see if he's right =)
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Old 03-08-2012, 09:28 AM   #41
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Jim,
I mentioned that to the electrician so he knows. and thanks, checking out the link now.
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Old 03-10-2012, 07:24 PM   #42
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Merry,

What I've found is that for me, one person with occasional company, that I can go a week without having to dump. If you can resist the urge to do dishes every day, and resist the urge to shower in the RV then you can go for weeks without needing a dump or water. If I'm not using the shower, I can go almost a month. In your case, not using the shower or facilities, except in an emergency, you could probably get 2 months. I don't know the size of your tanks so this is based on my 45/45/60 gallons (grey, black, water).

As far as pump outs, I have found that to be around $20 for both tanks...but that was a service that came and did several RVs at a time.

The LP, I don't know how cold it is where you are now, but the refer will be on electric, and if you have an electric heater installed in the water tank ($80), AND only turn on the LP tank heater 10 minutes before needing hot water, DON't use the oven often, you can go for months without needing a refill. Your tank is probably 25 Gallons, and delivery companies sometimes insist on a minimum fill so you'd be better off to lease a 50 gallon tank, if you tend to use a lot of LP. Probably wouldn't need to fill it more then twice a year. If you need your furnace now, that would change your expected usage, of course.
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