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Old 12-30-2012, 04:50 PM   #43
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So far I have read one post that has useful information. To start my coach does not tow anything. If you bolted a hitch to it the bolts would just pull through the wall if I was just pulling a scooter.

Now my coach sits on a Freightliner XC Chassis. It does the pulling.

Will the running gear handle the intended load? Attached and towed. If freight liner says no then the next question is why not? Transmission? Axles? Brakes? Most likely those RV tires you have on the rig will limit the loading.

After you get the chassis lined out to handle the complete load. Make sure your hitch can handle the downward weight, if not, correct the problem.

Now that you have a rig that will handle the load, make sure the trailer has brakes on it. Even though the rig has enough brakes to stop the entire load a little pad here is worthwhile.

Weight transfer hitches are an interesting work of design. By twisting a short section of frame rail they move hitch downward force to the front axle. Freightliner uses 9" frame rails, on a DP there is an frame extension that is bolted onto the main frame rails to support the engine. If the Freightliner frame has a limit then this might be it. You do not have much choice but to bolt the hitch to the rail extension. The effect of the transfer hitch is that it pushes the front of the frame down while lifting the rear up. it is not likely that you will be able to preload it enough to lift the rear of the coach enough to make any difference. But you will be able to apply downward force on the front axle enough to make a difference in handling. If I remember correctly there are two front axles available a 10,000 pound axle and a 12,000 pound axle. You might want the larger one.
Air bags should compensate for any loading that affects the running level of the coach. They could be a problem if you drive a road that causes the coach to bob up and down, depending on the timing the bags could over inflate or under inflate. As soon as the road smooths out the system will return to level.

Would I use a weight transfer hitch? Always and I would scale the front axle when fully loaded to make sure there was a pad in the loading of the front axle.

By now you will have good brakes, not have an axle overloaded, maintain handling and be on your way in controlling sway.

For me a hitch with a down force rating of 500 pounds is useless. 1000 pounds useable and 3000 pounds about right. Remember this is a middle weight over the road truck that I am driving.

Anyone who puts RV tires on a middle weight truck and decides to work it like a truck needs to be answering a suit.

Have you considered a pintle ring and hook? Of course it would require a four wheeled trailer or adapter gear.
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Old 12-30-2012, 11:03 PM   #44
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Wow.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:03 PM   #45
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Work the numbers, here's the bottom line, the tow rating is the lower of:


1. GCWR minus RV's actual weight (if it's not over GVWR).


2. Hitch capacity.


3. Coach tow rating.


4. Chassis maker's tow rating.
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:29 AM   #46
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If your coach has a tow rating of 11000 pounds + or -, then I would just go to a hitch shop that will build you an 11000 pound hitch. Then you're good to go. I would just make sure the hitch shop will certify the weight towing capacity of the new hitch. That's what my father did and he's had no troubles at all.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:01 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by Playtime III View Post
State Towing Laws for RVs

Example of one incorrect list.
Yep, it's wrong for WA, and OR.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:37 AM   #48
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Yep, it's wrong for WA, and OR.
I'm from BC and frequent Wa a lot...if the list is wrong, then what part is wrong?
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:04 PM   #49
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If your coach has a tow rating of 11000 pounds + or -, then I would just go to a hitch shop that will build you an 11000 pound hitch. Then you're good to go. I would just make sure the hitch shop will certify the weight towing capacity of the new hitch. That's what my father did and he's had no troubles at all.
I've seen statements like this on many threads arguing "...driven XX,000 miles without toad brakes and never had a problem.." Driving straight and steady on dry pavement doesn't count. It's that sudden maneuver to avoid a hazard or an emergency when all the physics come to bear that makes the difference.

NO ONE has a problem until the arrive at the scene of the accident...THEIRS. The Coyote doesn't have a problem jumping off the cliff, until he reaches the bottom.

The OP is taking an RV with a rated hitch of 5,000# and wanting to more than DOUBLE it to 11,000#. When you say "make sure the hitch shop will certify the weight towing capacity of the new hitch." Does that mean they assume liability if it breaks? Most shops I've dealt with are pretty clear (in the fine print) that they DON'T assume liability and actually when you sign the bill you are signing off their liability.

11,000# trailer on a hitch on the overhang of a rear engine RV is putting all sorts lever action on the rig moving down the road. I'd be concerned with handling, braking, tires, strain on the drive train, and a host of problems besides the hitches ability to handle the load.
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:18 PM   #50
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. When you say "make sure the hitch shop will certify the weight towing capacity of the new hitch." Does that mean they assume liability if it breaks?
That's exactly what I mean!!! If the shop won't stand behind their work and certify the hitch, then I would find another shop. This isn't rocket science, just a simple case of CYA!!
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:31 AM   #51
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Well here we are, many months later... Lot's of opinions, some valid! We had a local welding shop beef up the standard hitch, and added no weight distribution, anti-sway, etc. We've towed a few thousand miles, had two wheels shear off the trailer due to heavy loads, and have had zero problems with the hitch / motorhome.

Winnebago installed 5k hitches on some coaches, and 10k on others, with no rhyme or reason why according to the factory. Just what they had handy. The factory told me the only difference was that the 10k hitch has longer frame rail attachment legs, which is fundamentally what the welding shop added along with some other reinforcing. As such, I had no problem towing heavy. Zero issues with handling, braking, etc. The ONLY negative was getting 6.4 mpg... I did not ask, nor do I think a welding shop would "certify" a hitch they modified, but again, it was modified to exceed the standard Winnebago 10k hitch.

At this point, I can confidently say it worked very well. We're selling the motorhome, (already sold the stacker trailer) and are buying a toterhome and bigger transport trailer to better accommodate our racing activities.

You can certainly get bogged down in minutiae sorting out these challenges, or you can move forward in a reasonable manner. I chose to make it work, and it did.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:50 PM   #52
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We've towed a few thousand miles, had two wheels shear off the trailer due to heavy loads, and have had zero problems with the hitch / motorhome.
Wheels shearing off the trailer? Please publish your itinerary so I can avoid being behind you on the highway.
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Old 01-03-2013, 02:40 PM   #53
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Just stay off the west coast and you'll be fine...
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:10 PM   #54
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How can a welding shop change the Difference between the GVWR and GCWR that a chassis manufacture puts on it? And then certify it?

Does the weld shop give you a new sticker to put on your MH with the change from a 5,000 lb to a 11,000 lb difference between the GVWR and GCWR?
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Old 01-03-2013, 03:32 PM   #55
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How can a welding shop change the Difference between the GVWR and GCWR that a chassis manufacture puts on it? And then certify it?

Does the weld shop give you a new sticker to put on your MH with the change from a 5,000 lb to a 11,000 lb difference between the GVWR and GCWR?
I don't think our concerns for engineering limits and 'towing heavy' are going to convince someone who beefed up a hitch 2.2 X it's original rating. Since he towed 'successfully' ... "only having two wheels shear off" He's convinced he was in the right. Just as I said before, people who tow dangerously for thousands of miles without incident somehow convince themselves that engineering and physics don't count. We can all be thankful he didn't encounter an emergency situation that would have shown the folly of towing an 11,000 lb load with a rig rated for 5,000 lb.
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:17 PM   #56
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I don't think our concerns for engineering limits and 'towing heavy' are going to convince someone who beefed up a hitch 2.2 X it's original rating. Since he towed 'successfully' ... "only having two wheels shear off" He's convinced he was in the right. Just as I said before, people who tow dangerously for thousands of miles without incident somehow convince themselves that engineering and physics don't count. We can all be thankful he didn't encounter an emergency situation that would have shown the folly of towing an 11,000 lb load with a rig rated for 5,000 lb.
I think he said his rig was rated to tow the load, it was just the hitch that wasn't. The hitch is what he beefed up....but I also see your point....if you're shearing off wheels there must be something wrong. Or maybe he was only joking when he said that.
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