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Old 05-18-2016, 10:03 AM   #113
Brad Felmey's Avatar
Ford Super Duty Owner
Holiday Rambler Owners Club
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Originally Posted by Larry Young View Post
I have the EEZRV system...very clear and easy to see while driving
Another +1 for the EEZRV system. Got 'em on the RV, the dolly and the rear tires of the toad. Very easy to set up, very reliable, and you can easily see the display at a glance. Already clued me in to sticking front brakes on the RV which were on the verge of failing the wheel bearings (yes, that hot). Paid for themselves in the first 10 miles in my case.

Brad Felmey
1998 Newmar Dutch Star M-3883 DP (Freightliner)
Soon to be full-time (est. late 2016)
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:53 AM   #114
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Tire Tracker working fine...

Have a 500 mile trip under our belt using the Tire Tracker. Works well including for the toad even without the repeater plugged in (tried it both ways).

System was easy to set up and I really like the sensitivity to a slow leak apparently not available on most other units based on advertised specs (I tested my Tire Tracker while parked by unscrewing sensor just enough to allow a very slow leak of air...not real scientific but works for me).

Phil & Kathi
USAF/USAF Civil Service Retired - Fulltimers since October 2014
2006 GS Independence 8357LS, 2011 Equinox, Hobie Odyssey, CHF, 5 Star Tune, TireTracker
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Old 06-09-2016, 04:12 AM   #115
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Spartan Chassis
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Went with TST 507

I got my TST 507 from Diana at plugitright.com. Our Newmar Mountain Aire is only 41, but quickly found I needed the repeater. I was having drop outs on the inner duals on the coach more than the toad. The repeater cured the issue though. Once the repeater was installed I was pulling readings from the toad when it was parked 80 yards from the coach!

The system was easy to setup and it's easy to "shut off" the toad if it's not hooked up. As others have said on the TST, the display could be a little larger (not much larger than a credit card), but if it's working right, you don't need to be staring at it all day when you have your alert thresholds set properly... It'll let you know when there's an issue. I paid $589 for the system and 12 sensors and another $60 for the repeater (April 2016). Went back and forth about whether to get the 507 (user replaceable batteries) or the 510 where you have to send your sensors back for new batteries. In the end I went 507 and will replace myself. A couple of the sensors were "tight" getting them installed where the valve stems were very close to the rim, but was still able to get them on without much difficulty.

I've only had it up and running a month or so now, but it seems to work well and it's great peace of mind, especially for the toad. Our toad is a 2013 Jeep Cherokee and no issues or conflicts with the existing TPMS on that which still works fine on it's own. I had read some forum posts where folks had issues with the onboard TPMS in their toad, but we're had no issues at all.
Cheers! Don
Newmar Mountain Aire 4121
Spartan K2 - Cummins 450hp ISM - Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
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Old 06-17-2016, 09:02 AM   #116
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TST 507 Flowthru MH--Non Flowthru on toad. Repeater:

All works well after one defective valve stem extender was replaced.

In addition to adjusting the monitor to not show the toad while it is disconnected from the MH, I bought a separate monitor ($59.00) and use it in the toad while it is disconnected from the MH.

I really like it in the toad because it tells you a lot about your tires that you never expected. For example the toad tire pressure is specified to be 30 psi. I adjusted all tires to that pressure in the afternoon when the outside temp was in the mid 80s.

Next morning with outside temp in mid 70s three tires were at 27 psi. One was at 32 psi. That tire was in the morning sun and its temp was 102F -- 32 degrees above the outside temp.

Then a very surprising thing happened. I drove the toad at about 35 mph and the pressure returned to 27 psi at a temp of 75 F in a very short distance.

Those kinds of variations occur all the time on the toad tires, and it is surprising how much effect the sun has.

I highly recommend a separate monitor in the toad when not hooked up to the MH.

Good Luck!
Wil Andrews
2007 Newmar Kountry Star DP
Cummins ISL, Cummins E-Brake
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Old 06-17-2016, 10:27 PM   #117
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Just installed our EEZRV system today. We'll see how it performs on the upcoming summer trip. Sensors were painless to program, and the head unit was easy to mount. No complaints.

I'll also point out that buying direct from the company was cheaper than Amazon.
2015 Newmar Bay Star 3215
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Old 06-22-2016, 12:46 PM   #118
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Ok....tire pressure showed 75 psi when it was 55 degrees outside....now it's 98 degrees outside and tire pressure shows 80 psi...I want them to be 80 psi cold, so do I add air or leave it alone?
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:23 PM   #119
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Cold doesn't mean the ambient temperature. Cold means before the tire has rolled any appreciable distance (less than a mile).

Once you set your desired pressure Cold, leave it alone. There are margins built into the tire for higher external heat. Even major altitude changes should wait until the tire is "Cold" again.
Dale & Mark Bruss
10 Years Full-Timing now 40' Travel Supreme
Now with a 2016 Bounder 33C
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:28 PM   #120
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I understand......this IS before the tire has rolled. ....so if I set my tire pressure when ambient is 50 and check it when it's 100 my pressure will be higher....ambient will have a big difference in pressure.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:52 PM   #121
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Sure ambient temps play a role. If the tire is sitting in the sun all morning before you check it, I wouldn't considered it cold.

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Old 06-22-2016, 07:53 PM   #122
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All four tires were in the shade all day.....
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:16 AM   #123
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There are many web sites that explain in great detail the definition of Cold Inflation Pressure or CIP.

Google is YOUR friend.

Do a search and study up on exactly what it means. There are also TEMP charts that will compensate for different ambient temps.

Nominally it is 1 psi for every 10 degrees up or down from70F.

Definition of Cold Inflation Pressure

The ONLY time to check CIP is FIRST thing in the morning BEFORE the days temp has had a chance to increase and BEFORE the sun has had a chance to shine on the tires and BEFORE you have used the vehicle.

If you check in the afternoon even if the tires have been in the shade the tires have changed due to higher ambient outside temps. That's where the chart comes into play.

Personally I never pay any attention to the chart. I always check the CIP where I happen to be located and adjust accordingly. Unless I have driven from one major climate to another I won't check CIP again until early morning temps have changed dramatically.

Dr4Film ----- Richard
2002 Monaco Windsor PBT 40Ft. (R HOME) - 30Ft. 2006 Pace Trailer (R JUNK). Trailer Has 06 VUE (R TOWD) 04 Victory Alen Ness Edition (R RYDE). Full-Timer for 14 Yr's BUT now a Part-Timer. Cummins ISC-350 With Banks Power Pack and Upgraded PRXB PacBrake.
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:53 AM   #124
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Thank you for the info.....
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Old 06-23-2016, 10:08 AM   #125
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Some clarification from a tire engineer.

First off I am not going to address what the correct Cold Inflation Pressure is for your RV. We will assume you have read posts on how to learn that number. There are different guidelines for Trailers vs Motorhomes. I want to focus only on setting the CIP

Dr4Film is almost correct except for is use and reference to a Temperature compensation chart.

Tire Rack was off a bit till they updated their tech page last year after my input. Also Wikipedia definition was correct till I added a clarification aimed at RV owners. The 1Psi for 10 F is ok if your base inflation is near 40 psi but many RVs use 80 to 110 psi.
The correct "Rule of Thumb" to use is 2% for each 10F.

Tire pressure is not based on any laboratory standard temperature (some claim 70F) but is based on the tire not being warmed from either use i.e. being driven in previous two hours or from being in the Sun for previous two hours. Even partial sun can affect the reading.

Classical "Temperature in the Shade" is the "Ambient" tire engineers are talking about. Not Temperature in a theoretical laboratory.

So regarding your specific situation of setting the pressure when the tires and air is 50F. That would be fine and we would expect the pressure to increase by about 8% if the Ambient increased to 90F even without driving or Sun exposure. If you are seeing that much change in Ambient you may want to not consider the 50F time as normal set the pressure time. I would think checking more than an hour pre-trip is a bit early if you are going to be seeing such large temperature swings. I have a 10% margin built into my numbers fo am not concerned about a couple psi variation.

Dr4Film is correct when he says "The ONLY time to check CIP is FIRST thing in the morning BEFORE the days temp has had a chance to increase and BEFORE the sun has had a chance to shine on the tires and BEFORE you have used the vehicle."

However if you are driving from the campground on top of Pike's Peak and stop for lunch for two hours in the shade in Flagstaff where it is 90 and check your air you might find a change of a few psi. You could adjust your pressure before continuing to Phoenix where it is 120F but I don't bother to adjust inflation by the 1 to 3 psi variation I observe day to day. Too much work.

NOTE My personal CIP is 75/80 F/R on my Class-C MH. Both of these pressures are more than 10% above the minimum pressure needed to support the measured load on each tire so I have a "cushion". I usually wait till I am home and an getting ready for next trip before I adjust my inflation to my personal CIP so watching my TPMS readings, I simply monitor the running inflation pressure which goes up and down as Ambient, driving and Sun exposure changes the inflation. My TPMS will warn me of air loss so all is good as I motor down the highway.

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