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Old 02-21-2014, 10:14 AM   #351
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Nice, I wish someone could explain to me why trailer tires have such a short life span
Alignment.....NONE!
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:05 AM   #352
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Alignment.....NONE!

I have measured off the distance between the axle hub and the tongue for both axles, they are the same
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:32 PM   #353
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Those bumpers sure are shinny, I am going to have to pull mine and polish them, even if I have been warned that it is a difficult task.

If you need the trailer toad or not will really depend on how robust the rear frame is. I would also suggest a beefy hitch. Be safe, make sure the frame can take the stress, make the receiver stronger than needed, make the hitch (ball) stronger than that. That way you will tow with confidence, never a worry if there might be a problem down the road.

In my set up, I called the chassis manufacture first and was asured that the frame was MORE than strong enough, I put on a 16,000 pound reciever, use a solid one piece american built hitch and ball to pull a 12,000 capable trailer which might have a total weight of 8,000 pounds. Everything is over engineered.
Thanks Glenn. I had the bumpers re-chromed when I painted the endcaps and bottom section of the coach. They weren't terribly bad but they definitely needed to be freshened up. Here in the pictures I think they were well worth having them done for when I re-assembled the coach.

As far as hitches go, I totally agree. My first two coaches I custom fabricated the hitches as they looked a bit "iffy" to me. I tied them well enough ahead and I am sure I overbuilt them but I don't like to worry about what is following me in tow. I also agree in purchasing higher quality balls and stingers. It kills me when I get asked where is the cheapest place to buy towing products such as balls and hitches. I ask why they don't care about what they are towing and want to use a $5.00 cheapy chrome ball to haul a 10k pound trailer loaded with $40k dollar plus sand toys or race cars.

I have been using a Curt 2 5/16" ball with a 1-1/4" shank rated @ 30k pounds capacity for many years now. I give the hitch a thorough looking over before inserting and crawl under the coach and check the hitch, welds and bolts several times each season.

Mike.
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Old 02-21-2014, 12:46 PM   #354
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I have measured off the distance between the axle hub and the tongue for both axles, they are the same
I upgraded a friend/neighbors trailer a couple of years ago. It was a 26' enclosed trailer with dual 3500 pound axles under it. I know he had to have it loaded to well over 9k pounds with as many quads, fuel and camping accessories that he carried. He must have had five or six blowouts in the several years I knew him after moving in down the street from us.

Finally I asked him why he kept throwing money at tires rather than stepping up to a heavier built trailer or at least higher capacity axles. He had no idea that axles had a weight rating or capacity. He said he had gotten a good deal on the trailer and bought it, had no idea about how much weight he was even carrying. I tried to explain that not only the weight capacity of the axles but also brake sizing of one axle vs. a higher capacity. I just don't think the average person thinks that much about what they are towing. If it hooks up to the truck or motorhome it must be safe.

I installed two 5200 pound axles under the trailer for him and took a lot of measurements prior to cutting the old ones out and as I was mocking the new ones into position. I found that there was a .375" difference from the center point of the ball coupler to each side. Three-eighths of an inch may not seem like much but when trying to keep everything in a straight line going down the road that little bit is a big discrepancy.

First trip to the dunes after completing his axle swap he reported back that the trailer towed so much better. At first I just thought it was the placebo effect but he said he could see it more closely centered in his mirrors from side to side. He said prior he could see the front corner of one side down the side of his motorhome but it took to nearly the middle or last two thirds of the trailer to see the other side in his mirror.

So long answer to short question, yes, lack of alignment or lack of quality control when the trailer is being manufactured would be my guess as to the accelerated wear on tires.

Mike.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:29 PM   #355
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It kills me when I get asked where is the cheapest place to buy towing products such as balls and hitches.

I have been using a Curt 2 5/16" ball with a 1-1/4" shank rated @ 30k pounds capacity for many years now.

I give the hitch a thorough looking over before inserting and crawl under the coach and check the hitch, welds and bolts several times each season.

Mike.
It is scary what you see sometimes.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:37 PM   #356
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I go to an antique watercraft rally every year, this is my tandem trailer set up that I pull from Shreveport to Oklahoma.
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Old 02-21-2014, 01:57 PM   #357
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It is scary what you see sometimes.
Yes it does. And my wife wonders why I worry when I see a rig passing us or us passing them that looks "questionable". Generally, if it looks questionable from the first impression it will scare the **** out of you when you start looking deeper. Not always, but in my experience I error on the cautionary side.

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Old 02-21-2014, 02:07 PM   #358
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I was shocked too see the tires on the Trailer Toad in a video shown on irv2 vendors section I was waiting for them too POP.
GlennLever, Nice Cars, 24 foot trailer, What kind of cost would I be looking at? Like I said I don't need all the bells and whistles, just something to take her with us safely. Do they go by weight of car? I'm not even sure what she weighs and will look into that.
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Old 02-21-2014, 02:16 PM   #359
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I go to an antique watercraft rally every year, this is my tandem trailer set up that I pull from Shreveport to Oklahoma.
I really like old boats, the old Chris Craft wooden Launches were outstanding, even the reproductions are nice, maybe some day????

How about some pictures from the other direction
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Old 02-21-2014, 05:49 PM   #360
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I was shocked too see the tires on the Trailer Toad in a video shown on irv2 vendors section I was waiting for them too POP.
GlennLever, Nice Cars, 24 foot trailer, What kind of cost would I be looking at? Like I said I don't need all the bells and whistles, just something to take her with us safely. Do they go by weight of car? I'm not even sure what she weighs and will look into that.
This is our baby,
Well I definitely went high road on the 24 foot trailer with LOTS of extras; 5200 pound axles, 1 extra foot of height inside, Black marble vinyl floor, ATP covered ram and flap, Cabinet Package, Deluxe lighting (110 volt inside and out), 60" extended tongue, 16" wheels, Aluminum Wheels Roof vent, braced and framed and wired for A/C, Brandywine exterior, 5,000 pound "D" rings, 16" spare, $12,000.

The things I would not go cheap on are the axles 5000 pound minimum, and the spare tire. You could do this for 6,000 in a name brand trailer and 4,500 from a cheap trailer builder (don't do that) (new). Look for a good used trailer, a nicely equipped used trailer in very good condition will run about 6,000 (with a lot of extras). I would have gone that route, but could find no used trailers with the extra foot of height I needed for the Jeep
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:30 PM   #361
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I have measured off the distance between the axle hub and the tongue for both axles, they are the same
And the toe???....camber???
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:50 PM   #362
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And the toe???....camber???
It is a straight axle, no toe, no camber, and no caster.

Simplest explanation is the two front and rear tires fight each other in turns, and no Ackerman (As a result of track width, the tires on the inside and outside of a vehicle in a turn roll on different turn radii requiring different steer angles)
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:41 PM   #363
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Old 02-21-2014, 07:49 PM   #364
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Here's my rig
Very nice trying to decide if I want to go this way worried about unhooking in campground
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