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Old 04-13-2014, 06:27 PM   #491
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I just found a 2004 26' ATC enclosed trailer with 5,000 miles on it. I looks as nice as the new ATC my son just bought. It has 8' interior walls, 5500 watt commercial generator, air compressor, 15,000 btu AC on the roof, dual 500 watt exterior lights, 18' electric awning, rubber floor, two 6,000# axles, 3500# electric jack and three 8' long cabinets along with a work bench and tool chest. Being all aluminum, it weighs 6300# as equipped and has a 13,200# gvw. I probably would not have ordered all of the above, but the AC and awning is sure nice on the hot days when service on the Jeep is needed. I guess you can't have too many options. I went to a 15,000# hitch from the 10,000# one our coach had. (all approved by the chassis manufacturer) There is a 1500# tongue weight and I use a WD hitch.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:51 AM   #492
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with 1500-lbs of static tongue weight, think what the load is when you hit those "ramps" on both ends of the bridges and what loads are thrown onto the coach frame on those sections of "wavy" highways that drive can drive you nuts.
You coach will take a beating that will soon show on the coach; from interior and exterior doors that are no longer aligned to the rivets and caulking on the rear cap starting to separate; not to mention what can happen to slide-out alignment and frame work from the chassis flex.

We save hundreds of motor homes a year from damages caused by hooking trailers to the back of their coach. Yes, a lot of people do it and it seems OK but if you dig a little deeper the damages are inevitable. If you want to truly protect the coach from stress damage, improve braking by keeping coach weight as manufactured so ABS works correctly, check us out or call us. www.TrailerToad.com.
This is not about buying something you don't need; this is about protecting your investment in the coach because if it is damaged by flex and stress your insurance will not cover "damages from abuse". Been there and done that; that is pretty much what got the Trailer Toad invented and into production 10 years ago.
If we can help or answer questions we are willing to spend the time to make sure you make the best decision.
Jok
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:31 AM   #493
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I just found a 2004 26' ATC enclosed trailer with 5,000 miles on it. I looks as nice as the new ATC my son just bought. It has 8' interior walls, 5500 watt commercial generator, air compressor, 15,000 btu AC on the roof, dual 500 watt exterior lights, 18' electric awning, rubber floor, two 6,000# axles, 3500# electric jack and three 8' long cabinets along with a work bench and tool chest. Being all aluminum, it weighs 6300# as equipped and has a 13,200# gvw. I probably would not have ordered all of the above, but the AC and awning is sure nice on the hot days when service on the Jeep is needed. I guess you can't have too many options. I went to a 15,000# hitch from the 10,000# one our coach had. (all approved by the chassis manufacturer) There is a 1500# tongue weight and I use a WD hitch.
Sounds like a very nice trailer. Be certain to post up some pictures of it all hooked up once you pick it up.

Mike.
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:50 PM   #494
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with 1500-lbs of static tongue weight, think what the load is when you hit those "ramps" on both ends of the bridges and what loads are thrown onto the coach frame on those sections of "wavy" highways that drive can drive you nuts.
You coach will take a beating that will soon show on the coach; from interior and exterior doors that are no longer aligned to the rivets and caulking on the rear cap starting to separate; not to mention what can happen to slide-out alignment and frame work from the chassis flex.

We save hundreds of motor homes a year from damages caused by hooking trailers to the back of their coach. Yes, a lot of people do it and it seems OK but if you dig a little deeper the damages are inevitable. If you want to truly protect the coach from stress damage, improve braking by keeping coach weight as manufactured so ABS works correctly, check us out or call us. www.TrailerToad.com.
This is not about buying something you don't need; this is about protecting your investment in the coach because if it is damaged by flex and stress your insurance will not cover "damages from abuse". Been there and done that; that is pretty much what got the Trailer Toad invented and into production 10 years ago.
If we can help or answer questions we are willing to spend the time to make sure you make the best decision.
Jok
I suspect that the load on the back of the coach will be 6 or 7 times the 1500# when I hit a bump or dip in the road. Both the hitch and the MH frame are designed to take that when the 15,000# rating is given to them. Per the chassis manufacturer, I do not need to use a weight distributing hitch. I will use one, however, when we load up and head north. I am getting 1700# trunnion bars to better deal with the load. I also increase the tag air bag pressure to carry more of the rear weight. I have been towing a 9500# trailer with a 1000# tongue weight and no WD hitch. It towed very nice and with the increased tag psi, I hardly knew it was back there except for power needed to pull it. The 1500# tongue with a WD hitch should be even better. Other than being a little longer it should be very maneuverable when on the road or backing up when necessary.

I don't doubt that your toad dolly would be very nice, but I am already 75' long and don't want to add another 4-5 feet. I've been pulling heavy loads for several years and it works fine as long as one pays attention to the details of proper air pressures and weight distribution. I have never found any ill effects on the coach from towing, except the extra fuel used.
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Old 04-15-2014, 12:45 PM   #495
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Crasher,
Your attention to detail has no doubt helped you protect your coach. You are the exception as everywhere I take the Trailer Toad display I am confronted with people looking to fix doors that won't work when the trailer is attached or slide-outs that won't come in with trailer attached, etc.

I am glad the builder of your coach wasn't cutting corners, in today's world, that is rare.

Safe travels,
Jok
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Old 04-15-2014, 01:10 PM   #496
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Thanks for all the help folks, a lot of good information and some new conversations and options.

Thanks
Rob
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:09 PM   #497
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I had the escape door (left side middle) on my last two trailers and didn't care for them like some people do. I did not get one on my new Haulmark Edge but rather installed a winch in the bottom of the front cabinet to pull a vehicle in if needed. So far with my Jeep I can squeeze out once pulled in but it is tight.

I can have my Jeep loaded and strapped down in about 10 minutes, not to bad of a deal but not as quick or convenient as flat towing.

I too would recommend getting the inside finished. My last two I finished myself and liked them much more than the plain jane plywood. This trailer I opted for the "race package" which consisted of white aluminum interior, L-shaped front cabinet/workbench and fluorescent lighting.

The extended tongue is a must with an RV as I have witnessed the ill-fated effects of a fellow RVer turning into his campsite and hitting a small dip.

The 16" centered construction is so much more stable and solid feeling than my last two which had 24" walls and 20" floor crossmembers.

I also had a couple of 500-watt halogen exterior lights added to the side for those late night wrenching duties but now that we don't race any longer I have found that they still come in handy at times.

I am not a fan of having the spare tire(s) mounted under the floor like many manufacturers have them. My last two were that way and I had to access my spare once and had to unload most of my sand toys on the side of the road to gain access. What a pain in the ass. On my current trailer I opted for no spare and once I received the trailer I fabricated a mounting bracket to place it on the front and purchased a nice looking "continental kit" for it. It looks great and doesn't detract from the trailer at all.

Mike.
Thanks for all this info. I have been soaking it up like a sponge for when I can pull the trigger on a trailer. I am looking at getting something similar to your current Haulmark for my cars and toys.

I thought under the floor was a great place for a spare until I read this. Great point.

Why don't you like the "escape door?" I imagine your jeep is narrow enough you don't need it? Is winching just that much easier? Does it create any problems? Or is it just ugly and unnecessary? I have never dealt with an enclosed trailer so I value your opinions. Thanks.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:15 PM   #498
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spotted @ Thunderhill last weekend
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Old 04-17-2014, 07:28 AM   #499
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Thanks for all this info. I have been soaking it up like a sponge for when I can pull the trigger on a trailer. I am looking at getting something similar to your current Haulmark for my cars and toys.

I thought under the floor was a great place for a spare until I read this. Great point.

Why don't you like the "escape door?" I imagine your jeep is narrow enough you don't need it? Is winching just that much easier? Does it create any problems? Or is it just ugly and unnecessary? I have never dealt with an enclosed trailer so I value your opinions. Thanks.
Personal taste I am sure. I purchased both my first two trailers used and personalized them to my taste so I didn't have much say upon the side door which they both had. I thought they would be great for hauling my street rods around, however, the cars were too low to the ground for the door to be of any use. The doors on the cars would have come in contact with the fender wells/wall. I found it easier to pull the car onto the ramp door, hook up the winch, pull the cable taught, place the car in neutral and pull it into place then strap the axles down.

With our sand toys the sandrail was narrow enough to not need the escape door so I really found it unnecessary.

Fast forward to our new trailer which I ordered in February 2008. I waffled on the left side door because I knew this trailer would be used for hauling our Harley and Jeep around moreso than racing. I don't particularly care for the appearance of the left side door, however, with our last two trailers I fought the door seals on the left side door. I was constantly getting dust introduced into the trailer around the interior of the side door. I found it odd because on the right side door it sealed great. Perhaps I was just being overly anal but that layer of dust inside the trailer on my sand toys or street rods drove me crazy.

The left side door's shape, or flatness rather, would alter somewhat depending on ambient temperatures. It would pull away ever so slightly at both the top and bottom in the warmer months. It was recommended to install the full length locking bar/mechanism which pushed on the entire closing edge of the door. However, the looks of those long bars/latches on trailers drive me more crazy than the slight amount of dust in the trailer so I didn't even consider that as an option.

I am not a small person and squeezing in/out of the Jeep is tight but I would rather do that than have the side door. Worse case scenario would be to pull a vehicle into the trailer but with the winch already setup and ready to use it is not that big of a deal.

Mike.
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Old 04-17-2014, 10:07 AM   #500
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spotted @ Thunderhill last weekend
Yikes! I wouldn't want to be near him in a strong cross wind ~ that would be a white-knuckler for sure!
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Old 04-18-2014, 03:06 AM   #501
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Personal taste I am sure. I purchased both my first two trailers used and personalized them to my taste so I didn't have much say upon the side door which they both had. I thought they would be great for hauling my street rods around, however, the cars were too low to the ground for the door to be of any use. The doors on the cars would have come in contact with the fender wells/wall. I found it easier to pull the car onto the ramp door, hook up the winch, pull the cable taught, place the car in neutral and pull it into place then strap the axles down.

With our sand toys the sandrail was narrow enough to not need the escape door so I really found it unnecessary.

Fast forward to our new trailer which I ordered in February 2008. I waffled on the left side door because I knew this trailer would be used for hauling our Harley and Jeep around moreso than racing. I don't particularly care for the appearance of the left side door, however, with our last two trailers I fought the door seals on the left side door. I was constantly getting dust introduced into the trailer around the interior of the side door. I found it odd because on the right side door it sealed great. Perhaps I was just being overly anal but that layer of dust inside the trailer on my sand toys or street rods drove me crazy.

The left side door's shape, or flatness rather, would alter somewhat depending on ambient temperatures. It would pull away ever so slightly at both the top and bottom in the warmer months. It was recommended to install the full length locking bar/mechanism which pushed on the entire closing edge of the door. However, the looks of those long bars/latches on trailers drive me more crazy than the slight amount of dust in the trailer so I didn't even consider that as an option.

Mike.
Great info! Thanks for sharing. I completley understand where you are coming from. The whole point of an enclosed trailer is to protect your stuff. If you have to wash everything when you reach your destination, why not just use an open trailer?

What make of trailer were the previous two?

Thanks.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:58 AM   #502
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Great info! Thanks for sharing. I completley understand where you are coming from. The whole point of an enclosed trailer is to protect your stuff. If you have to wash everything when you reach your destination, why not just use an open trailer?

What make of trailer were the previous two?

Thanks.
First one was a Charmac. Hated it and only had it for a short time, less than six months. I was very disappointed in the rigidity/strength as well as the overall quality of that trailer. It was the first one I had purchased, I was young and inexperienced and it turned out to be an expensive learning opportunity.

The second one was a 24' Wells Cargo. It was a 1992 model year and I bought it "wrecked" in early 1993 from the original owner. He told me he had only pulled it a few time but he had a blowout and it tore the crap out of the fenderwell and a panel as well as jackknifed and hit the corner of the box on his truck. He got the insurance check and was going to repair it himself but lost interest and decided to sell it. A co-worker knew I was looking and told me about, it was a neighbor of his. I made and offer and drug it home.

I ended up replacing one of the Dexter axles which the spindle was damaged on and was able to save/straighten the inner part of the fender that got torn up. I bought some used aluminum fenders and cut them lengthwise to fasten to the steel inner fenders yet be aluminum on the exterior. I had polished the aluminum fenders and it not only looked nicer than the steel but also saved me from having to cut and weld the entire fender assembly in place. The panel itself was actually an easy replacement.

The front corner was also an easy repair. My wife and I used it to support our racing hobby as well as sand duning for 16 years until we sold it after ordering/purchasing our 26' 2008 Haulmark Edge trailer. The Wells Cargo was a nice trailer other than the side door that bugged the ever living crap out of me and I was starting to load it heavier and heavier. I contemplated swapping out the axles for 6k pound ones as it had dual 5200 pound axles at the time. I had looked for some used axles for a short time but in the end we opted to just order a new trailer with dual 7k pound axles along with some other options and I am glad we went that route. We got out of racing and realized we would want to start to haul both the Harley and the Jeep and there is no way I would be able to fit them into the 24' so no sense in dumping more time and money into it. In the end I am glad we went the route that we did.

The Wells Cargo was a good trailer and we drug it around most of the western U.S. but it is nowhere near as nice a trailer as our Haulmark Edge. Granted it may not be a fair comparison as there is also a 16 year age difference as well.

Mike.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:43 PM   #503
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Does your Haulmark have springs or torsion bars? Any opinions on the different suspension types?
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:56 AM   #504
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Does your Haulmark have springs or torsion bars? Any opinions on the different suspension types?

In my opinion torsion is the way to go, I do not believe it is torsion bars though, usually it is rubber strips inside a tube and the axle is inside that resist twisting






Help, for some reason I have stopped getting notifications on this thread, I am subscribed to it for instant e-mail, if I check the tools for the treads, my option is to unsubscribe?
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