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Old 07-17-2014, 08:50 PM   #603
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Originally Posted by 1ciderdog View Post
My suggestion is to go dead slow backing up, have an observer to help you and to not hesitate to stop & get out to look at where the trailer is when backing if any doubt is in your mind. My wife guides me when backing as she has for many years but sometimes the signals she gives are not clear to me so I do stop and go back and look so be sure all is as it should be.

I agree. When in doubt STOP! get out and look.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:51 PM   #604
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This weekend at Summit Motorsports Park.

Well we made it to the semi finals (only three vehicles left in the Pro Comp class).

Pulled up to run that round, started to do our burn out, and broke. Had sparks at my feet, pulled off to the side of the track and our competitor got a by run.

Towed it back to the pits and it looks like we sheared the bolts that hold the torque converter to the flex plate. They were grade eight bolts. I will replace them with ARP bolts.

I have to pull the transmission and torque converter, so I think I will have three additional lugs welded to the converter.

I want to get the dragster into the garage on Tuesday so I can get started on repairs (we will drive back from Norwalk on Monday)

While decommissioning the dragster found two more things, one there are several drips of transmission fluid on the transmission pan (hopefully it is just the seal on the front of the transmission) and when I went to crank it over I found I had no electrical power, did find one wire that had been disconnected by a bolt that was thrown out of the flex plate. But still no power. Will look into this when I pull the transmission.

Had a great time with great people and very good competitors. Racing is VERY tight.

A big thank you to Steve for the education he continues to give me.
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Old 07-21-2014, 05:45 AM   #605
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Great photo ! Real old school. Brings me back to my early teen years !!
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Old 07-21-2014, 02:10 PM   #606
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Great photo ! Real old school. Brings me back to my early teen years !!
If only it would roll back my age, it is getting harder to get into and out off.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:03 PM   #607
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Our rig with boat

Here is a picture of our Bounder and our 2003 Stingray before we left for home from Arkansas. The boat is about 26' from the tip of the trailer tongue to the tip of the outdrive.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:54 AM   #608
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Looking at a 24ft. Husky trailer with 2ft. V , to haul a bmw 325I and a golf cart. What is the best tie down to use? I will have about 11/2ft. of clears .
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:42 AM   #609
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I would have 'D' rings installed flush in the floor with at least 2 preferably 3 lengths of 'E' Track installed in the floor. I would use good quality ratchets straps to secure the vehicles.

I have found putting a rag through the wheel on vehicle where I intend to run my ratchet strap (protects the chrome wheels) works very well. My experience is if you can allow your car/truck to ride on there own suspension, straps stay tight and everything rides better.

I have never owned a golf car so I am not a lot of help for that, but I am sure something similar would work.

I have found this company very good to deal with and promptly ship products I need.
Tie Down Hardware & Trailer Tie Down Hardware
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Old 07-30-2014, 10:20 AM   #610
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https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/
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Old 07-30-2014, 12:34 PM   #611
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Thank you for the reply. They tell me the door needs 9" to open above the fenders. My has 7" from the floor.It is a convertible I get out the top.If I put D ring on each end of the tires front and back. Then use a tire net on all four wheel do the same for golf cart . that will be cheaper than the E track. if you can get to the D ring.
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:06 PM   #612
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Thank you for the reply. They tell me the door needs 9" to open above the fenders. My has 7" from the floor.It is a convertible I get out the top.If I put D ring on each end of the tires front and back. Then use a tire net on all four wheel do the same for golf cart . that will be cheaper than the E track. if you can get to the D ring.
If you bolt 2X12 planks to the floor where the wheels end up it will raise the car up so you can open the door through your escape hatch. It will also help you position the car in the same spot each time you load and unload.
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:18 PM   #613
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Thank you for the reply. They tell me the door needs 9" to open above the fenders. My has 7" from the floor.It is a convertible I get out the top.If I put D ring on each end of the tires front and back. Then use a tire net on all four wheel do the same for golf cart . that will be cheaper than the E track. if you can get to the D ring.
I prefer 'D' rings but the 'E' track gives you flexibility, especially for adjust tongue weight unless you put your 'D' rings far enough forward and back for all possibilities. You may need to adjust where you position the vehicle for proper tongue weight distribution.

The other reason I like 'E' track is what if you change a vehicle you put in or don't take the golf cart and you take a bike etc., just for flexibility. If you already have the trailer I wouldn't worry about 'E' track unless you find you need it later.

I do like GlennLever's suggestion for Mac's Custom Tie Downs, actually thinking of ordering a Pro Pack with 40" Through-the-Wheel Straps (8 Foot)

for my setup from them as we speak. Good luck!
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:20 PM   #614
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I prefer the flush mount "D" rings but I also don't trade off vehicles very often. The E-track does give you flexibility in that respect.

I am also a big fan of Mac's Custom Tie Downs. That is all that I will use and have used for the past 10+ years. I also use the motorcycle tie down kits that have the small wrist style straps and then the ratchet tie downs connect from there to the floor mounted attachment points.

When we had all of our sand toys/race vehicles I had experimented with several brands and found that Mac's had the best products as well as customer service. Just my opinion though.

On our last trailer and our street rod I did as suggested and had a couple of 2"x10"s screwed to the floor to drive the car on to and allow the door to open over the wheelwell through the escape door. I found it a pain as well as I didn't like the looks of the blocks screwed to the floor after backing the car out. When we ordered our new trailer in 2008, I opted to get the floor mounted winch and I much prefer that method of loading the cargo. Pull up to the ramp door, hook up the winch cable, place in neutral, pull the vehicle in, strap it down and off you go. It is actually quite easy and I don't have to have that ugly side door any longer.

Mike.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:40 PM   #615
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I have a question for those that pull trailers and are long.

I have a race that I would like to attend at capital city speedway, 2001 Speedway Rd, Ashton, ON K0A 1L0, Canada

I'm 72 feet long and concerned I might have a problem crossing at that length.

Has anyone crossed into and back from Canada in Kingston?
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Old 08-01-2014, 05:00 AM   #616
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[B]Glen >>>[]State Towing Laws for RVs
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