Community Forums

jimmy braden · 05-18-2018, 12:43 PM

So, I moved the rv to dump tanks and fill water, and when I tried to put it back in the same spot, I didn’t have clearance for the rear slide. So I unhooked the AC, pulled in slides, and put it back on the tires to move it a FOOT to the NORTH. When I hooked it back up, the ‘intellitec’ says 0 AC amps. Nothing is making it past the transfer switch. I start the Gen and it goes into gen mode and everything switches. I turn the gen off and it goes back to battery. I turned off the house breaker (at the batts) and no different. I turned off the main 50 amp breaker and back on. Same thing.

I unhooked from the 50amp-220 plug and put a 30 amp adapter on and I got AC.

Any ideas what is going on here?

Its an ITS 50R from IOTA engineering.

Time to head to the WM on my 2wheels to get a power strip and another extension cord.

Tha_Rooster · 05-18-2018, 01:32 PM

If you have power on dog bone then my bet the 50 plug has problems. Use meter the check 50 amp rec.

bruceisla · 05-18-2018, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tha_Rooster

If you have power on dog bone then my bet the 50 plug has problems. Use meter the check 50 amp rec.

Is there another unused site near you to try another pedestal?

jimmy braden · 05-18-2018, 02:38 PM

I'm afraid its more complicated than that; (surprised?) .. I'm actually running a 120 3way plug bc the site has a prob with 30amp now, to a ten gague wire that is prob 200feet. Then dropping down to my dog bone for the leg to the a.c. cable.

I know.. I'm screwed..

edit

Current plan is to see if the cg will give me good direct 30amp a.c. soon or at least try the rv a.c. input on sat...I can't see how it failed in 15mn.

bruceisla · 05-18-2018, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

I'm afraid its more complicated than that; (surprised?) .. I'm actually running a 120 3way plug bc the site has a prob with 30amp now, to a ten gague wire that is prob 200feet. Then dropping down to my dog bone for the leg to the a.c. cable.

I know.. I'm screwed..

edit

Current plan is to see if the cg will give me good direct 30amp a.c. soon or at least try the rv a.c. input on sat...I can't see how it failed in 15mn.

I'd be packing up about now ...

jimmy braden · 05-18-2018, 03:26 PM

Tell me..
I got here in late July last year and it was perfect.

I call in mar/Apr to book for early may this yr because my step D is graduating (from univ of Maine and I'm coming from TEXAS ) on may12. They didn't say anything about memorial day being normal open.. So I get here on may 4 and have been dealing w power ever since.

Tha_Rooster · 05-18-2018, 03:34 PM

I say campground should get there butt in gear and fix your power before something get burned up.

MisterT · 05-18-2018, 03:52 PM

I think one of your 50amp shore cord 'hot line'/leg connectors has lost it's connection within the housing, so you won't have both sides of the 50amp coming into your coach, though you might have 30amp fine since it probably uses the other 'side'/leg and works.

I had this happen, though when you have a 'molded end' type 50amp shore cord male end, it's more difficult to repair, if not impossible. I replaced mine with a Camco, which uses 3 or 4 screws.

but, in the mean time, plug your shore cord back into 50amp and 'wiggle' it some and see if anything changes(you hear your ATS 'clunk'!)

jimmy braden · 05-18-2018, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MisterT

but, in the mean time, plug your shore cord back into 50amp and 'wiggle' it some and see if anything changes(you hear your ATS 'clunk'!)

alas, there is nothing but the 120 grounded at this time - 16amp max

jimmy braden · 05-20-2018, 08:22 AM

Well, I tried going back to a.c. via transfer switch again.

Switched off house breaker. Unplugged 30amp to 120 adapter. Plugged back into 30 wire ( even though its just a 120 connection). And checked all lock connectors between outlet and my 120,connection. Then switch ed house breaker back on. Same thing.

I'm gonna have to get with cg mgmt it seems..

Since memorial day is coming up, either he will have to get power fix ed or I guess I'm packing for another place.

aether_one · 05-20-2018, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

Well, I tried going back to a.c. via transfer switch again.

Switched off house breaker. Unplugged 30amp to 120 adapter. Plugged back into 30 wire ( even though its just a 120 connection). And checked all lock connectors between outlet and my 120,connection. Then switch ed house breaker back on. Same thing.

I'm gonna have to get with cg mgmt it seems..

Since memorial day is coming up, either he will have to get power fix ed or I guess I'm packing for another place.

It would be easier to try to help you if you used correct/standard terminology. There is no "30amp to 120 adapter"; current on one end and volts on the other? A standard 30 amp RV plug uses 120 VAC. I assume you meant 30 amp to 15 amp adapter? But you audience should not have to guess what you mean if you are more clear.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

I'm afraid its more complicated than that; (surprised?) .. I'm actually running a 120 3way plug bc the site has a prob with 30amp now, to a ten gague wire that is prob 200feet. Then dropping down to my dog bone for the leg to the a.c. cable.

I know.. I'm screwed..

I have no idea what you meant by "120 3way plug".

Is that a 15 amp 3 outlet tap?

hohenwald48 · 05-20-2018, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

So,
I unhooked from the 50amp-220 plug and put a 30 amp adapter on and I got AC.

I agree with tfryman.

Even in your first post I have no idea what you mean by "I got AC." Does that mean AC as in alternating current or AC as in air conditioner?

jimmy braden · 05-20-2018, 09:36 AM

Im in maine in May, Not talking about Air-conditioning

120 volt 3way grounded plug that is about 200 feet away is all that is avail. They keep telling me they gonna fix it. The owner made a 200 foot TEN gauge cable with 220 volt lock connectors on each end. I took my 3 way adapter and plugged it into the 120 OUTLET at the source and use his cable for the 200 foot run,

Its going from the 50amp input on the RV side to the dogbone to an adapter (which I thought was reffered to as 30 amp to 120), to the cable run. I can't explain it any other way at this point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by tfryman

I have no idea what you meant by "120 3way plug".

Is that a 15 amp 3 outlet tap?

yes

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimmy braden

alas, there is nothing but the 120 grounded at this time - 16amp max

thanks but I dont think there is a lot the forum can do here - terminology or not. Im kinda of a the CGs mercy best as I can tell

jwwing · 05-21-2018, 08:22 AM

Hah! Isn't it fun!

To me a 3-way 120 plug is a 30 amp RV standard plug. A 15 amp 3 outlet tap - huh? Never heard of it. Maybe he should refer to it as a 3-prong plug, 110 vac, 2-wire plus ground, but I seldom hear it called a 'tap'. Is that a regional thing?

A 'tap' is used on kegs. A plug is used on on outlets or receptacles. Unless you are an electrician, and even then, you probably have local vernacular for what things are called. LOL

Did you test your inside outlets with a 120 vac outlet tester? If it shows reverse polarity, then you should look for a dead short on one side. I had this happen this weekend at the campground. We were there for 10 days and after 8 of them, the power went out to the coach.

My setup uses a 4-wire 50 amp hardware. One side was 110 vac on the meter when we got there and I though nothing of it. When it quit, that voltmeter also said polarity reversed. When I measured the voltage on the pedestal where the campground breakers are located, I could not read any voltage on one side. So I called the cg people who came out to find nothing wrong, but decided to pull the breakers and found a bad breaker (which explained the 110 vac before vs the 120 vac after he fixed it).

But when I plugged in - still no power and the reverse polarity. Slap upside the head!
Reverse polarity means that there is a dead short on the side that is reversed. After only a few seconds, I found a wire nut that had cracked and finally broke off allowing the wire to hit the box wall - dead short, but only on one side. I replaced the wire nut and taped it - voila! everything worked again. If you have one of those 3-prong plug-in testers, they are well worth it to try - it will tell you of wiring faults easily. Or maybe 3-wire receptacle tester for 110 vac 15 amp receptacles? A little yellow thingy that plugs into the wall outlet and shows 3 lights; two gold and one red. The two gold should light up brightly and the red should be off. On mine before the repair, there was one gold on , the center gold off, and the red was on - indicating polarity reversal which means short.

If you don't have that kind of device, but you have a VOM, disconnect ac line from the camper, don't start the generator. Check the continuity from the round pin to each of the blade pins of the power cord - one should show continuity, but not both. If both are continuous, power side is shorted to ground inside the house. Open the main breaker (30 amp) and also the generator breakers (both of them) usually marked main (if you cannot tell which is it, turn them all off) and recheck the continuity. My bet is that the continuity to both blades is still there. Look to the wiring between the automatic transfer switch and the receptacle. The hot wire is touching ground somewhere. The problem is to find out where. Look in the ATS first as it is most likely or any terminal box where joints are made - especially recent ones. If your coach is anything like my 2004 Flair 33R, the ATS is inside the coach behind the power panel in the bedroom (but they are located in various places on the different coaches).

If the continuity is no longer there, the short is after the breaker. Shut off the main breaker and power the system. if it fails again with the main breaker off, it could be a faulty main breaker. Just chase it down.

By now you have gotten over the situation and are rolling again - what did you find?