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Old 08-28-2011, 06:08 PM   #15
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I replaced all six Michelin RV tires with Toyo truck tires. I have put 5,000 miles on the tires since January of this year. Love the tires and the way they handle.
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Old 08-28-2011, 06:42 PM   #16
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I guess my question would be why go with a truck tire if there are so many RV tires available other that the guy at the tire store doesn't have RV tires and wants to sell you truck tires. Why risk being unhappy with a truck tire if it may be a rough ride or may not have UV protection or whatever. I have a hard time with that logic because of the cost of the tires and what is riding on the tires.
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:04 PM   #17
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Mike Canter......I contacted Bridgestone-Firestone Senior Engineer at the plant located near where we live to question what my tire dealer told me; and he assured me in writing that it was okay as long as we did not go below the minimum. Our tires are rated for "up to" 80psi and we run them at 60psi. They ride well, handle well, and are wearing very well.

Also notice on tire sidewalls, the rating is "up to" or listed as "maximum" air pressures. Of course, not all tire dealers are created equal; that is why I have been with the same dealer for almost 30 years.
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:14 PM   #18
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Mike Canter......I contacted Bridgestone-Firestone Senior Engineer at the plant located near where we live to question what my tire dealer told me; and he assured me in writing that it was okay as long as we did not go below the minimum. Our tires are rated for "up to" 80psi and we run them at 60psi. They ride well, handle well, and are wearing very well.
I can not help but wonder if the Firestone rep had any hand in the Firestone/Ford rollover situation not too long ago.

If someday you have the time and can get a temperature reading tool try driving somewhere with your 60psi on one side of the coach and your say 75 or 80 on the other side and look at the temperature differences. I'm not suggesting anymore than 30 miles or so on a day with temps above 70. This would be about the only way to get some informed information on the subject that you could rely on first hand.

Heat is a big enemy of any tire and a great contributor to blowouts.
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:18 PM   #19
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What does the load inflation table say your tire pressures should be for the weight on them? That is the only pressure I would ever think of using. If that engineers recommendation matches then fine if not there is no way I would lower the pressure.

I am not saying you have to run them at 80 psi because that is the pressure for max weight loading and if your MH didn't required 80 psi and that is what you used then it would be rough riding. It is possible that the engineer looked up your MH and gave you the correct pressures but there is no way I would assume that without checking. Have you ever weighed your MH on a truck scale and looked up what the correct pressures should be at? Just for interest what does the decal on the wall beside the drivers seat recommend for pressures?
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:07 PM   #20
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Put me in the camp that you should inflate to the weight you are carrying. For many setups that can be a big difference in inflation front/rear (in my gasser the difference is 10psi, maybe a touch more if I wanted to cut it fine) -- and that 10psi difference up front makes a HUGE difference in ride quality (while still being quite safe).

But running 10% under the inflation tables... no amount of ride improvement would overcome the anxiety created by doing so.

Steve
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:27 PM   #21
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Put me in the camp that you should inflate to the weight you are carrying. For many setups that can be a big difference in inflation front/rear (in my gasser the difference is 10psi, maybe a touch more if I wanted to cut it fine) -- and that 10psi difference up front makes a HUGE difference in ride quality (while still being quite safe).

But running 10% under the inflation tables... no amount of ride improvement would overcome the anxiety created by doing so.

Steve

x2
i run psi according to weight
and yes we weigh very often. If we are taking the hauler and truck, then the rears get bumped up to cover the added tongue weight, if we go naked then they may change
some how we loose weight one trip then gain it all back on the next one.
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:46 AM   #22
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I won't comment on UV inhibitors but what that poster attributed to the maor RV tire maker... Makes sense.. That is how I would design them.

RV tires are designed to have a bit more "Give" than truck tires, thus giving a softer ride. Either can be used, but the ride will suffer if you use the wrong tire.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:58 PM   #23
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So how do I know when I am getting a 20-30 percent better ride? Is there a butt-o-meter scale?
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:30 PM   #24
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I am learning that the only "Butt O Matic" scale is from the hole in your wallet. Michelins quoted at over $800 each installed by Redlands Truck. Told Mike I was tired of paying his kids Ivy League college tuition and that I would only pay for California community college. Pete's tire over 80 a tire cheaper.

Guess Redlands has enough of my money for now. Many many thousands spend and the coach still isn't right!

I am giving them one more chance.
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:41 PM   #25
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But I do run the G670's that have a 7 year warranty on cracking.
But no warranty for "rivering" and they won't admit there's a problem either!
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Old 08-30-2011, 11:49 PM   #26
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But running 10% under the inflation tables... no amount of ride improvement would overcome the anxiety created by doing so.

Steve
Our 2002 DSDP was overloaded on the original front axle so Newmar had Spartan replace the axle. They left the original Michelin 275/70 22.5's on but put them on new heavy duty wheels. I asked about changing to different size tires but was told that wouldn't help.
The did give me a letter on Michelin letterhead stating that even though my axle weight required 125 psi according to the charts I could run 120 psi and be fine (the wheels would only take 120 psi). I ran them at 120 psi for 6 years with no trouble.
That tells me that there's some leeway in the charts but even then I wouldn't recommend it unless you get it in writing from the tire manufacturer that it's OK to do it.
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Old 08-31-2011, 12:08 AM   #27
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I am learning that the only "Butt O Matic" scale is from the hole in your wallet. Michelins quoted at over $800 each installed by Redlands Truck. Told Mike I was tired of paying his kids Ivy League college tuition and that I would only pay for California community college. Pete's tire over 80 a tire cheaper.

Guess Redlands has enough of my money for now. Many many thousands spend and the coach still isn't right!

I am giving them one more chance.

PVRICK,
I live in Redlands. I have not had occasion to do business with Redlands Truck, but this past December I purchased G670s for our 02 Windsor for $600 each including installation and balancing beads at Williams Tire in Fullerton. They also had Bridgestones for about $550 per tire. Wish I had gone with Bridgestones after learning about the G670 rivering problems.

Tires, Wheels, and Automotive service - Williams Tire Charleston, SC (800) 968-9827
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Old 08-31-2011, 07:48 AM   #28
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MR D, two things. I don't think five pounds difference in air pressure will change anything that we can notice. The ambient air temperature changing all the time will change the air pressure by five pounds either way. If one always inflates to 5% over the weighed weight then one is always safe if the tire pressures are a little down. Also I am sure those inflation load tables are going to have a factor in there that will allow for a tire gauge being off or the tempearture being off. The tire makers are not going to give you a recommended pressure that is going to be a make or break if you are a little below such as five pounds. 10 to 20 percent may start to overheat the tires and do long term damage. Notice I said percent because 5 lbs change on a tire that can take a max pressure of 60 lbs is very different from 5 lbs on a tire that has a max pressure of 120 lbs or 80 lbs. The other probably would be the max pressure allowed on the wheels and liability. If they told you to go over the max wheel pressure of 120 lbs then they would be liable if something happened. Based on what little I know I think what they did was correct.
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