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Old 08-31-2011, 08:20 AM   #29
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I know this thread is getting long and repeated BUT, lol. I had a 2007 Travel Supreme, kept it weighed and the tire pressure according to the weight. They were 295x 22.5 tires and the date code said that they were built in January of 2006. When I traded it off last month the steers were cracked bad enough that the tire dealer said they needed to be replaced very soon. So?? I guess that kind of dilutes the claims of uv inhibitors. The pressure (I have a pressure pro system and it works great) was always maintained to the chart recommendations, we had 40,000 miles on the coach so they got used and the steer tires still checked badly. All just my experience.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:36 AM   #30
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Ann, this has been covered before but let me say it again. The big difference between a MH and a truck is that the MH spends a LOT of time sitting around doing nothing so that the tires are not going through heat cycles and sidewall flexing which is very bad for a tire. These heating cycles and sidewall flexing results in what tire engineers call "blooming" and causes the chemicals and the oils in the rubber to flow and prevent drying out and cracking. If the MH is not being driven then it is real important that the tires are sitting on the right road surface, the pressures are increased (while parked only) to the max written on the tire sidewalls, and that the tires are covered and even better are protected with a special UV protectant. Doing all this will greatly increase the life of the tires and help retard the cracking process. Because MH spend a lot of time sitting the tire makers add that UV protectant to the rubber compound. Just imagine how bad it would be if they didn't. The other BIG BIG factor is where the MH spends most of its life sitting around. If it is in Flrorida, Texas, or Arizona or anywhere in the South it is going to be worse because of the sun. Here in Georgia on race car trailers tires just rot off the trailer and will actually crack and have the tread belt come off while just sitting there. It is amazing to see because of no UV protectorant in the compound. So your tires are five years old and that is like "dog years" if they have not been used, or treated.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:14 AM   #31
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An old timer once told me a trick that I still use. Before a trip when fully loaded, make a chalk line across your tires. Drive a few miles and check the lines. If there are no lines left your pressure is fine. If you still have some line in the middle then you are under inflated. If you still have some line on the outside you are over inflated. Works for me.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:16 PM   #32
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Then again, Goodyear had to UP their pressures on the charts due to blowouts... I wouldnt automatically assume that the charts have a safety factor 'built in'.
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:51 PM   #33
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When did GY change there charts for the G670? I have tables going almost as far back as the G670 has been out there and I have never seen them change. There are different charts for trucks versus motohomes.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:25 PM   #34
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Billieg, I have tested that chaulk trick and it may work on a car tire but it will not work on my MH tire. I weighed my MH and set them at the correct pressure and heated the tires up then tried it. I could move the pressures up and down 20+ lbs on a 100 lb tire and not be able to tell the difference in the chaulk line.
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:29 PM   #35
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Quote:
† Tires produced after 2/28/06.

* Industry standards for load & inflation are in the process of being revised. These tables are current as of 01/01/05. For the most current
information, please visit the RV Tire section of Goodyear’s Web site at Goodyear RV Tires.
http://www.goodyearrvtires.com/pdfs/rv_inflation.pdf
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:37 PM   #36
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Those "new" pressures in that referenced chart for all the GY G670 tires are identical to my chart from 2004. No difference. Since it is one long chart they may have changed or added something for another tire but not the G670's.
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Old 08-31-2011, 06:57 PM   #37
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Quote:
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Billieg, I have tested that chaulk trick and it may work on a car tire but it will not work on my MH tire. I weighed my MH and set them at the correct pressure and heated the tires up then tried it. I could move the pressures up and down 20+ lbs on a 100 lb tire and not be able to tell the difference in the chaulk line.
I did it to my MH and it worked well on 19.5 tires. I also do it on my cars and my truck. Seems strange it didn't work for you.
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Old 08-31-2011, 08:33 PM   #38
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I'm sure glad I live in Wisconsin I bought 2 new Goodyears for my steer 2 years ago and paid 325.00 each for them and mounted them myself at work. I guess tires must have went up but at work our tires have gone up but not to anywhere close to those prices.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:17 PM   #39
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I bought 6 Toyos (19.5) last April in Fontana for $2205.26 out the door. Very nice outfit to deal with. Goodyear dealer. In addition the owner put in Equal in all tires plus three more for the tool box - no charge. We are just west of you in Grand Terrace.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:42 PM   #40
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Oh my goodness, keep your newer tires or donate them to one of us. Of course a tire dealer wants to sell you new tires. Let us know how the Chinese tires do. Remember when us guys used to always say Japanese stuff is junk?
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:50 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Mike Canter View Post
Those "new" pressures in that referenced chart for all the GY G670 tires are identical to my chart from 2004. No difference. Since it is one long chart they may have changed or added something for another tire but not the G670's.
Which ever ones were blowing up....
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