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04-18-2012, 11:27 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,973
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Unsafe Battery Cable Route?
This is my battery compartment overview
After learning the virtues of the AUX BATT switch, I delved deeper into the realm of my battery system. Keep in mind that the dealer replaced the house batteries and I don't know if there was a size difference but the chassis battery was put in service August of 09. The problem is that the chassis battery is a side post and the negative cable was routed between a threaded bar used to hold a battery down and a battery. I'm concerned that the threads will chew away the cable cover.
My thoughts are to replace the chassis battery with a slightly bigger one with top posts. The current one is an Interstate MT-75/650 CCA (9 X 7.25 X 7.625) With the Interstate MTP-78DT/800CCA (10.3 X 6.875 X 7.8) The replacement would be a bit longer but based on eyeballing it from the pic, shouldn't be a problem. It has top posts that will help avoid the current situation.
I am assuming that going from side to top posts I will need new cables. so...
1. Does anyone agree that the cable routing is a problem?
2. How hard would it be to recable the entire battery system?
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Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 2015 DSDP 4320 4369, FL Chassis, 2013 CR-V 2020 Jeep Overland, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1.
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04-19-2012, 12:54 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Solo Rvers Club
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Quartz Hill, California
Posts: 445
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Maybe you can just turn the battery around, which will also make it easier to access the terminals. Nothing wrong with the side terminal batteries.
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'94 Bounder 32h. Chevy V-8 44k miles and like new. Tow 4 down 2007 Saturn Vue w/Honda V6
Retired Memorial Day wknd, 2015, but who's counting
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04-19-2012, 02:53 AM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Country Coach Owners Club Appalachian Campers Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
Posts: 12,060
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You would likely never have a problem with the cable in the coaches lifetime. The vibration may cut through the cable insulation but never enough to cut the ground connection loose. If this were the 12+ cable the issue would be totally opposite.
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Mike, RVIA & RVSA Certified Master RV Technician
Amy, Dr. Assistant - Roxie & Mei Ling, four legs each
2000 Gulf Stream Scenic Cruiser 450 hp & 1330# torque
06 Saturn Vue, 06 Chevy Z71 4x4 & 2014 Corvette Z51 M7
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04-19-2012, 05:34 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr300ce
Maybe you can just turn the battery around, which will also make it easier to access the terminals. Nothing wrong with the side terminal batteries.
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That is too simple.
I work for the government, I need a more complex, incomprehensible solution that costs a lot of money. LOL
Well, from the pic I clearly have enough positive cable available to move, so I just need to look into how much slack I have for the negative cable. I would think that while I am doing that I can make sure the battery is in good charging shape before I make a final decision on it. I had an incident right after picking it up where I had to jump it to get the engine started but I think that may have been more cable/terminal related.
Tanx
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 2015 DSDP 4320 4369, FL Chassis, 2013 CR-V 2020 Jeep Overland, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1.
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04-19-2012, 05:42 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Wizard
You would likely never have a problem ... If this were the 12+ cable the issue would be totally opposite.
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OK...Can't resist...GEEE Mr. Wizard.
Good point regarding potential affect regarding - vs + cable danger potential. I can stand down from Def Con 2 now. LOL. I'm thinking the other suggestion to just turn the battery around fits the bill. Even if I had to replace the negative cable to make that work, I like it. I suppose the only counter is whether having the terminals above the open compartment bottom MIGHT cause some problems with water. (Ya...that is reaching but I am such a worry wart. LOL) However, the retracted stairs would shield that area anyway.
TANX!
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 2015 DSDP 4320 4369, FL Chassis, 2013 CR-V 2020 Jeep Overland, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1.
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04-19-2012, 09:43 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Damon Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North East Texas
Posts: 4,946
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you could add a piece of thick rubber anti chaffe material to the negative lead at the contact point of the threaded rod.
A tech putting it in that way imo was not a smart person
granted its only the negative, and it wont cause to much harm if it does chaffe through, maybe radio static, flickering lights, etc
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04-19-2012, 10:49 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Gulf Streamers Club
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 19,925
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Turning the battery around would make the terminals more accessible for maintenance. If the threaded rod chafing is a concern, about 10 inches of an appropriate sized vinyl hose from Home Depot slipped on the rod will shield the threads.
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Bob & Donna
'98 Gulf Stream Sun Voyager DP being pushed by a '00 Beetle TDI
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04-19-2012, 11:07 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 837
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Oh my gosh, it's a ground battery cable. It doesn't matter, worry about the something else, but if it bothers you too much put some loom around the cable and worry about the price of gas. The other end of that cable goes to the frame. Worrying wont make any difference on either one.
-Paul R. Haller-
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04-19-2012, 06:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Posts: 6,973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul R. Haller
Oh my gosh, it's a ground battery cable. It doesn't matter, worry about the something else, but if it bothers you too much put some loom around the cable and worry about the price of gas. The other end of that cable goes to the frame. Worrying wont make any difference on either one.
-Paul R. Haller-
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Well...keep in mind it has been a while since I new the difference from an Amp and a ohm in the ground. LOL
Long story short, battery didn't test too good and wouldn't start the motor. I replaced my 650 CCA battery this afternoon with an 800 CCA Interstate battery with both top and side connections. I turned that sucker around too. LOL
I used the top 12+ so I replaced that cable and then used the side 12-...for now. There is a lot of excess ground cable so on some boring day I will need to pull out the house batteries so I can get to the connector and put in a shorter cable. I also took the time to dress out the house batteries. All and all...I feel much better about it.
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 2015 DSDP 4320 4369, FL Chassis, 2013 CR-V 2020 Jeep Overland, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1.
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04-19-2012, 06:26 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Yuma County, AZ
Posts: 10,869
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When you do "need" to change out the house batteries you might want to consider going to pairs of six volt golf cart batteries. I just upgraded my bank and am very pleased.
Also, here is some good info about RV electrical systems, including batteries
http://www.rvcruzer.com/electrical/t...4798206&sr=8-1
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Barb (RVM18) with Morkies Lily & Bebe RIP Sena FMCA#F466348
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The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timer May 2011 - July 2021
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04-19-2012, 06:29 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Yuma County, AZ
Posts: 10,869
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Sorry this is the correct link
Electrical Tutorial
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Barb (RVM18) with Morkies Lily & Bebe RIP Sena FMCA#F466348
"Homer" ‘11 Shasta Cynara, pulling "Ranger" '97 Ford Ranger toad
The Journey is Our Destination. Full-timer May 2011 - July 2021
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04-19-2012, 06:37 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Walnut Creek Ca USA
Posts: 837
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[QUOTE There is a lot of excess ground cable so on some boring day I will need to pull out the house batteries so I can get to the connector and put in a shorter cable. [/QUOTE]
All kidding aside a great place to go for best quality cables is the welding shop They carry heavy finely stranded welding cable in 04 right up to and including 4/0. They also carry heavy duty all copper lugs and my shop, if you buy it all from them, will crimp on the lugs for you for free. Seriously, it's way cheaper and better quality cable then sourcing it elsewhere. In all my work on electrical stuff, and I have done a lot, on heavy draw 12 volt stuff like running inverters, bigger is better. In my rig, all my battery connections to the inverter from the battery, to frame, and battery to fuse connections, I use 4/0 cable. Even from the converter, since I can't get large cable into the connector lug on the converter, I use 2 #4 cables on both the positive and negative side to prevent voltage loss. My converter has 2 connectors on each output.This is often an overlooked weak point and RV dealers don't have a clue.
In my most recent purchase I asked the dealer to install 2 6 volt batteries instead of 1 12 volt when I purchased the 5er. That required him to make a new cable between the new batteries because now you need to wire the batteries in series instead of parallel. He installed a #6 wire between the batteries. What a monumental error. If I draw max power out of the inverter, I'm draining about 300 amps for a 3000 watt inverter. What do you think would have happened to that #6 wire? It would have fried the first time I tried the inverter.
Your batteries and their ability to supply power is dictated by ohms law. In the real world that translates to the size wire and it's length are what limit the batteries use. Small wire size and longer runs induce more resistance. More resistance reduces voltage and amps go up and so does heat. Why shoot yourself in the foot to save 10$ on cable. Go the biggest you can buy and still be reasonable. Go 4/0 for all battery connections and clean everything well! Your batteries will be happier for it and heavy cables really don't weigh that much more and they will provide you more power to use and less waste in heat.
-Paul R. Haller-
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04-19-2012, 08:05 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Spartan Chassis
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: ON THE ROAD...SOMEWHERE
Posts: 6,973
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Barb, Paul,
Thanks for your thoughts. I agree about the use of 6 volts in series. Just can't get myself to do it since I got 2 brand new 12V house batteries in the deal and I haven't even had the rig a week yet. LOL
As I replace some of the main battery cables I was thinking of using 2 gauge since that is what it appears I currently have. Should I go bigger than that?
It makes sense that leads to/from inverters and converters need to be as "big" as possible to avoid the things you talk about. I'm just starting to get the basics on inverters and converters so your ideas are very helpful.
__________________
Don, Sandee & GSD Zeus. Guardian GSDs Gunny (7/11/15) & Thor (5/5/15)
2006 2015 DSDP 4320 4369, FL Chassis, 2013 CR-V 2020 Jeep Overland, Blue Ox Avail, SMI AF1.
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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04-20-2012, 06:06 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 6,768
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BFlinn181
... If the threaded rod chafing is a concern, about 10 inches of an appropriate sized vinyl hose from Home Depot slipped on the rod will shield the threads...
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I use pieces of old hoses for chafe protection, held in place by strap ties.
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Pulling a Honda CRV
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