Go Back   iRV2 Forums > MOTORHOME FORUMS > Class A Motorhome Discussions
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-09-2010, 05:14 AM   #1
Senior Member
michguy's Avatar
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Spring Lake, Michigan
Posts: 300
Used Class A Diesel Checklist

Good morning, We're actively looking for a used Diesel Pusher, 36' - 40'. Does anyone have a fairly comprehensive Checklist or procedure suggestions for checking out a used Coach ?

michguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 09-09-2010, 05:42 AM   #2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 289

Blackstone Labs


I have used both of these companies for used oil analysis, and it is critical to get a sample of oil, engine/transmission to make sure that you are not buying very expenisve problems.

A used oil analysis will tell you exactly what condition the beast is in.

rough road is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 05:47 AM   #3
Community Moderator
"007"'s Avatar

Nor'easters Club
Workhorse Chassis Owner
iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 27,902
Welcome michguy to irv2.
Here is a check list that will cover most everything you can find more in New Rig Show off forum above plus a recall listing for recalls.
Enjoy the forums and good luck in your quest.
98KSCA, 99MACA, 03 KSCA-3740- 8.1 Chev-- ALLISON Trans, now in good hands
"007" is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 01:54 PM   #4
Senior Member
michguy's Avatar
National RV Owners Club
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Spring Lake, Michigan
Posts: 300
Thanks Rough Road,
Many of the used ads say that they've just had a service including an oil change. How much does the engine have to run before an oil analysis will detect problems?
michguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 04:26 PM   #5
Senior Member
Martind4's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marshfield, WI
Posts: 476

I just sent you a PM (private message).
Denny, Connie & Shadow (former barn cat made good)
2006 Tiffin Phaeton, Cat C7, Freightliner Chassis
Martind4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2010, 06:54 PM   #6
CatWoman1121's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Cornelius, NC
Posts: 62
Michguy - I am doing the same thing - getting ready to buy the same thing you are. Thanks for the post and thanks to all who replied with info. Already did some "bookmarking"
Full time as of 6/4/2011
2008 Dodge Ram 3500 Laramie Quad Cab Dually 4x4 and 2011 Rushmore RF35CK.
CatWoman1121 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2010, 07:51 AM   #7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 289
Michguy, I am told by smart people that for a coolant check the minimum is 100 miles and for serious wear the minimum is 200 miles, the general consensus is that with 300 miles you get 'good' numbers.

Seems like the perfect argument to have the dealer let you take it for a real long ride-the easiest way is to spend about twenty bucks for a sampling pump. With one all you have to do is either order long sections of tubing,-tell the lab what type of vehicle you are sampling and I am certain that they will send the proper length of tubing- I find that four feet works with any type of vehicle or just go to a hardware store and buy 12' or so of 1/4 inch of the hard white tube. Only trick is to be certain that you do not draw from the bottom of the pan, it will take you about a minute to get a sample, about a week to get the results back.

The procedure is quick and clean; make certain that you have the miles on the oil, warm it up, shut off the engine and let things drain back for a few minutes, remove the dip stick, insert the somewhat stiff tubing into the pan through the dip stick tube until you just feel it contact the bottom of the pan, pull up the tube about two inches, insert the tube into the handpump, attach the small plastic jar and give two or three pulls. It wont' feel like anything is going on but in a few seconds you will begin to see oil coming up the tube and collect in the jar. When you have it to about 1/2 full pull the tube out far enough for the vacuum to break and let the oil drain out of the tube-remove the jar, cap it off, remove the tube from the pump. I always have a cloth around my had as I pull out the tubing to clean off any oil. Be sure you do not reuse the tubing.
Then all you have to do is put the jar into the mailer that is provided to you, take it down to the post office and send it in.

Of course gloves are nice.

It has saved us from one very, very expensive mistake-with the engines in your class of rv the cost of replacement would have to be easily in the $15,000 range.
rough road is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-13-2010, 03:31 PM   #8
Senior Member
JohnQ's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Port Angeles, Wa
Posts: 266
When we shopped for a used DP, we were only interested in a No Slide DP, and that somewhat limited us to mid to late Ninties models. Finally settled on Sarfari, which we ultimately bought (for a lot of preferential reasons). I found a Yahoo User group for the Safari's and they have a downloadable PDF (6 -7 pages long) that is a Motorhome Checklist for buying. It was a great tool for us to sift through a lot of coaches. The link for the checklist is http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/0JCOTGk...eck%20List.pdf and I believe you have to join the group to get access to it, and the homepage is http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/...yguid=11485381 . Great bunch of folks there that helped us quite a bit, especially "Guidence" on "Pricing."

1997 Safari Serengeti M-4040
& 2007 Ford Sports Trac
& 2004 Ford Exploder TOAD's
JohnQ is offline   Reply With Quote

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ford Gasoline & LP Fuel V10 to Power Class 1 - 7 Chassis in the 2012 Model Year DriVer RV Industry Press 1 07-17-2010 07:08 AM
2010 EPA Diesel Engines Pusherman MH-General Discussions & Problems 40 03-06-2010 06:48 AM
New low-Sulphur Diesel Fuel--Impact on older Diesel Engines Uncle Ben MH-General Discussions & Problems 7 01-01-2008 07:17 PM
Fleetwood Introduces 2006 Full-Wall-Slide Class A Diesel Disney Campers - Scott Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 1 11-30-2005 11:00 AM
Diesel Class C units CyberVet65 Class C Motorhome Discussions 6 03-15-2005 12:51 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:48 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.